I have OHM meter, will give it a try, thanks.
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Browse All TopicsHP vp6111 DLP projector, manufacture PN L1707 Serial TWB4173993 lamp USHIO type NSH200BQ wattage 200. April 2004 is manufacture date.
The projector started shutting off after running for a while. Based on what users said, it would run a few minutes and then shut down. After it sat for a while they could reconnect and it would run OK but might shut down unexpectedly. The last time I set it up it started normally but the projected images of windows desktop were yellowed and left side was blue and blurred. I shut it down by using power button and it went into normal stand by cool down mode. When I came back to it an hour later it was shut off. It is now total dead and does not respond to any power on mode, connected or not connected to anything. I suspect the bulb is bad but have no way to test and do not want to buy a $400.00 bulb and find the problem is something else. Can a bad bulb cause the project to act this way and stop it from turning on or what would be the cause?
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The bulb does not have continuity but these bulbs are a slow start type so maybe they need a load. Checked the output to bulb and that is zero as well. At this point I'm guessing power supply but that takes it to another level. If it is power supply did something cause it to go out. Our testing lab is going to play with it for a while.
The symptoms you describe (before the stone dead part ) sure sound like an overheating issue to me. The machine was likely turning itself off to try to avoid damaging the bulb/machine. It sounds as if your users might have ignored the issue long enough to damage/destroy the bulb and/or other parts. The color problems can be a symptom of bulb failure as bulbs tend to die slowly (when they are not being cooked that is) When you say the machine doesn't respond to the power button, do you mean no little indicator /led turn on, or fans, or just that there is no bulb output? In any case, I would buy the bulb and try it. Many venders will take back parts with only a restocking fee which is likely lower than the minimum bench test price tag if you have to send it out for diagnostics. If it works, I would then make sure the cooling system is running correctly before reissuing it to your users
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by: jburgaardPosted on 2007-04-27 at 11:16:07ID: 18991190
If you have a ohm-meter: measure the resistance of bulb.
I guess a dead bulb would have 'infinite' resistance.
A ok bulb of 200w will have a low resistance.
If you do not have a ohm-meter :
make a series circuit of 6V-battery & 6V-bulb & 'perhaps dead bulb'.
If there is a current (6v-bulb glow) then the 'perhaps dead bulb' is not dead.
(it does not matter if you instead use 9v-bat. combined with 9v-bulb or 1.5v&1.5v or..)