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RE: Toshiba Satelite 5005-S507 repair...LED error codes
Project Toshiba Satelite 5005-S507 repair:
After rebuilding the cooling/fan system and reassembling this laptop, I get an orange led flash code when trying to startup. The system does nothing at all but a code flashes as soon as you push start and continues to repeat itself as an 8 digit binary. In my case the flashed error bin is 0100 1110 . I have found the Toshiba chart for power supply code trouble, but I cannot relate the flashed code I see to their error code. They say it is in hexadecimal, which my calculator coverts to '4E'. But the toshiba table lists the hex error codes as 10h, 22h, 73h, etc, eg. and nothing like 4E.
Can you help me convert the binary flash code to the 'toshiba hex code'?
Or do you know what the error is and what I should be checking back inside laptop?
Here is the Toshiba Trouble Shooting Procedures link that may help others of you....
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/content/support/manuals/maintenance/su299655/ch2.htm
Thanks and Happy New Year 2006? .Dan
After rebuilding the cooling/fan system and reassembling this laptop, I get an orange led flash code when trying to startup. The system does nothing at all but a code flashes as soon as you push start and continues to repeat itself as an 8 digit binary. In my case the flashed error bin is 0100 1110 . I have found the Toshiba chart for power supply code trouble, but I cannot relate the flashed code I see to their error code. They say it is in hexadecimal, which my calculator coverts to '4E'. But the toshiba table lists the hex error codes as 10h, 22h, 73h, etc, eg. and nothing like 4E.
Can you help me convert the binary flash code to the 'toshiba hex code'?
Or do you know what the error is and what I should be checking back inside laptop?
Here is the Toshiba Trouble Shooting Procedures link that may help others of you....
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/content/support/manuals/maintenance/su299655/ch2.htm
Thanks and Happy New Year 2006? .Dan
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ASKER
Thanks tuneupmypc...
I've tried booting both ways, the A/C adaptor is giving the correct 15V. The battery is at full charge and reads 12.4V. I have two adaptors and both are good.
I'm trying to think what wires require, or system involves the 0.68V levels?. Do you know? That would help.
I have just redone the assembly correcting I think a video card misalignment. Not that it changed anything, still the error code. But what voltage is the video card using?
The only other area I question is I'm using a new to me CPU I got off the net and have never seen it boot. What voltage is involved with the Celeron 1.3Ghz Tualatin?
Any other thoughts..?..like am I looking for a short more than a bent pin?
Dan
I've tried booting both ways, the A/C adaptor is giving the correct 15V. The battery is at full charge and reads 12.4V. I have two adaptors and both are good.
I'm trying to think what wires require, or system involves the 0.68V levels?. Do you know? That would help.
I have just redone the assembly correcting I think a video card misalignment. Not that it changed anything, still the error code. But what voltage is the video card using?
The only other area I question is I'm using a new to me CPU I got off the net and have never seen it boot. What voltage is involved with the Celeron 1.3Ghz Tualatin?
Any other thoughts..?..like am I looking for a short more than a bent pin?
Dan
You stated that you rebuilt the cooling/fan system on this laptop. Were you having overheating problems prior to the rebuild? I believe you will find this article of interest: http://www.pcworld.com/news/article/0,aid,103700,00.asp
The toshiba manual (that you supplied the link for) shows in procedure 5 to test the DC-in jack, and then proceed with checking the specified fuses. You may want to review these 4 steps that Toshiba provides. The DC-in jack is probably the #1 problem for laptop motherboards, so I would start with that. If the jack tests okay, then proceed with testing the fuses.
Do you still have the old processor, and what exactly happened to it? You may find it useful to see if your system will boot with it, instead of the new CPU.
It's difficult to determine the exact location of the lacking voltage, as the exact power level will vary by wherever you are located. The celeron 1.3ghz is rated at 1.356v (http://www.intel.com/design/intarch/celeronm/celeronm.htm).
If you feel comfortable with the work that you have performed on this laptop, then my dice would be on the motherboard or processor. With the information that I have read from PCWorld, and with you telling me that you bought another cpu, I'm 50/50 odds on whether it's the motherboard or processor.
The toshiba manual (that you supplied the link for) shows in procedure 5 to test the DC-in jack, and then proceed with checking the specified fuses. You may want to review these 4 steps that Toshiba provides. The DC-in jack is probably the #1 problem for laptop motherboards, so I would start with that. If the jack tests okay, then proceed with testing the fuses.
Do you still have the old processor, and what exactly happened to it? You may find it useful to see if your system will boot with it, instead of the new CPU.
It's difficult to determine the exact location of the lacking voltage, as the exact power level will vary by wherever you are located. The celeron 1.3ghz is rated at 1.356v (http://www.intel.com/design/intarch/celeronm/celeronm.htm).
If you feel comfortable with the work that you have performed on this laptop, then my dice would be on the motherboard or processor. With the information that I have read from PCWorld, and with you telling me that you bought another cpu, I'm 50/50 odds on whether it's the motherboard or processor.
ASKER
Tuneup...
Yes, the repair I've perfected is exactly for the poor design and material application that Toshiba got 'heated' for. They should have employed me.
Anyway part of the fix involves replacing their CPU with a much more suitable Celeron. And I no longer have the original one, as it already went out in a desktop PC. I will try another Celeron, albeit slower, that I know works.
Regarding the Procedure 5 checks, I have seen several laptops especially Compaq with failed input jack mountings, or worse no mounting, so they break right of Mbrd. Are these Toshiba's also weak in that area?
Odd question if you will..in your experience if a die head is cracked, will the computer run at all? TY....Dan
Yes, the repair I've perfected is exactly for the poor design and material application that Toshiba got 'heated' for. They should have employed me.
Anyway part of the fix involves replacing their CPU with a much more suitable Celeron. And I no longer have the original one, as it already went out in a desktop PC. I will try another Celeron, albeit slower, that I know works.
Regarding the Procedure 5 checks, I have seen several laptops especially Compaq with failed input jack mountings, or worse no mounting, so they break right of Mbrd. Are these Toshiba's also weak in that area?
Odd question if you will..in your experience if a die head is cracked, will the computer run at all? TY....Dan
ASKER
Tuneup..
I'm back in the machine again, and no the Toshiba power jack is solid and of good design, no trouble here. All cables look good and were all connected, no pinched wires either. No signs of burns or shorts or meltdown. As for the 3 fuses, I can't seem to locate any of them. Do you have any clue what they look like and where they may be hidden?
Also a question on grounding.. do you suppose the low voltage could come from the fact I only tightened a few screws to hold shell together for a test. I see a lot of copper ground patches on mother board and also on video card that contact the upper shell metal when screwed down? Thanks
I'm back in the machine again, and no the Toshiba power jack is solid and of good design, no trouble here. All cables look good and were all connected, no pinched wires either. No signs of burns or shorts or meltdown. As for the 3 fuses, I can't seem to locate any of them. Do you have any clue what they look like and where they may be hidden?
Also a question on grounding.. do you suppose the low voltage could come from the fact I only tightened a few screws to hold shell together for a test. I see a lot of copper ground patches on mother board and also on video card that contact the upper shell metal when screwed down? Thanks
Dan-
Have you tested the jack with an ohm meter? Also, did you try the other Celeron processor?
If the cpu is cracked or defective, then you should not have a power code, but another error code altogether. However, in the wonderful world of electronics, it is possible that a short (cpu?) can cause power drains that are hard to troubleshoot. I would not rule out a bad cpu yet.
I have repaired lots of IBM, HP, Compaq and Dell laptops. In my experience a forgotten screw will not keep the machine from booting up, but every motherboard is different and certainly needs to have good contacts.
The fuses that need to be tested will be surface mounted fuses on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to make sure that the F8800 fuse, the F8810 fuse and the F8820 fuse on the system board (FHGSY*) are not blown. Toshiba may actually have the components labeled on the motherboard. They are normally located fairly close to the power jack. If you are not able to locate them, then we'll need to dig up some schematics for it. I may have a little more difficulty finding schematics, as I'm actually on vacation for the next couple of days. I couldn't keep myself away from this site. :P
If you are able to test the motherboard with a GOOD processor and it still does not bootup, then you are most likely looking at a bad motherboard.
Have you tested the jack with an ohm meter? Also, did you try the other Celeron processor?
If the cpu is cracked or defective, then you should not have a power code, but another error code altogether. However, in the wonderful world of electronics, it is possible that a short (cpu?) can cause power drains that are hard to troubleshoot. I would not rule out a bad cpu yet.
I have repaired lots of IBM, HP, Compaq and Dell laptops. In my experience a forgotten screw will not keep the machine from booting up, but every motherboard is different and certainly needs to have good contacts.
The fuses that need to be tested will be surface mounted fuses on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to make sure that the F8800 fuse, the F8810 fuse and the F8820 fuse on the system board (FHGSY*) are not blown. Toshiba may actually have the components labeled on the motherboard. They are normally located fairly close to the power jack. If you are not able to locate them, then we'll need to dig up some schematics for it. I may have a little more difficulty finding schematics, as I'm actually on vacation for the next couple of days. I couldn't keep myself away from this site. :P
If you are able to test the motherboard with a GOOD processor and it still does not bootup, then you are most likely looking at a bad motherboard.
ASKER
Tuneup....
Doing better (?) today...never did find the fuses, but I swapped out the processor, and reassembled with more screws. When I first tried it the flashing code had disappeared, but unit did nothing except for the occasional cooling fan cycling on and off.
This AM I was fussing with battery and A/C in and out, and it booted to boot screen, I selected safe mode, and it loaded to the agp440 file then rebooted itself. After a couple cycles like that, I hit last known good config, and it went to the countdown screen and then died. Power and fan stays on, but now no beeps, no error codes , no video. So far I can't get it back up again. I don't think its the power supply, mbrd, or cpu at this point do you? You wouldn't think changing to last known good config with a new slower cpu would do this would it?
Thanks and enjoy that vacation....
Doing better (?) today...never did find the fuses, but I swapped out the processor, and reassembled with more screws. When I first tried it the flashing code had disappeared, but unit did nothing except for the occasional cooling fan cycling on and off.
This AM I was fussing with battery and A/C in and out, and it booted to boot screen, I selected safe mode, and it loaded to the agp440 file then rebooted itself. After a couple cycles like that, I hit last known good config, and it went to the countdown screen and then died. Power and fan stays on, but now no beeps, no error codes , no video. So far I can't get it back up again. I don't think its the power supply, mbrd, or cpu at this point do you? You wouldn't think changing to last known good config with a new slower cpu would do this would it?
Thanks and enjoy that vacation....
Dan-
The system should boot into bios, regardless of your software configuration.
One thing that you may want to pay particular interest to is: what type of heat dissipation is the video card using? I know that on some other models that there is an aluminum shield that makes contact with the video card chip. I would try to assemble the laptop with as many screws as possible and see if the video stays on.
With the machine shutting off (and staying off), it still sounds like a heat issue. Whether or not it is permanent is yet to be determined.
The system should boot into bios, regardless of your software configuration.
One thing that you may want to pay particular interest to is: what type of heat dissipation is the video card using? I know that on some other models that there is an aluminum shield that makes contact with the video card chip. I would try to assemble the laptop with as many screws as possible and see if the video stays on.
With the machine shutting off (and staying off), it still sounds like a heat issue. Whether or not it is permanent is yet to be determined.
ASKER
Tuneup...
Video Card has a decent size copper sheet on it. I don't think heat is stopping it from booting as its been off and in a cool room most of the day. Most of the screws are installed.
When it sets there trying, as last night the cooling fan cycles on and off and does a good job I think. You see, following the first partial boot it has does nothing all day, cool or hot. All it does is light up the blue sub-LCD screen for about 3-4 seconds, and the green power on LED stays lit. No beeps ,no video, no codes, no noise. Now if you leave it in that state the cooling fan will eventually come on maybe 10 mins later, but usually I've powered it down. I've tried accessing the bios with ESC button to no avail.
Actually we may have another situation, although its still no post , no beeps , no video, but also now its no error codes. Looks like its go back inside...what do suggest next?
Video Card has a decent size copper sheet on it. I don't think heat is stopping it from booting as its been off and in a cool room most of the day. Most of the screws are installed.
When it sets there trying, as last night the cooling fan cycles on and off and does a good job I think. You see, following the first partial boot it has does nothing all day, cool or hot. All it does is light up the blue sub-LCD screen for about 3-4 seconds, and the green power on LED stays lit. No beeps ,no video, no codes, no noise. Now if you leave it in that state the cooling fan will eventually come on maybe 10 mins later, but usually I've powered it down. I've tried accessing the bios with ESC button to no avail.
Actually we may have another situation, although its still no post , no beeps , no video, but also now its no error codes. Looks like its go back inside...what do suggest next?
Dan-
It still sounds like you have a bad motherboard. Some of your power circuitry is obviously working with the sub-LCD and fans now working. The motherboard receives the power and then sends it to where it needs to go. I really believe that the overheating caused some damage to the motherboard, and the intermittent starting is from some very marginal components.
It's too bad that we can't see bulging surface-mounted capacitors....
It still sounds like you have a bad motherboard. Some of your power circuitry is obviously working with the sub-LCD and fans now working. The motherboard receives the power and then sends it to where it needs to go. I really believe that the overheating caused some damage to the motherboard, and the intermittent starting is from some very marginal components.
It's too bad that we can't see bulging surface-mounted capacitors....
ASKER
Thanks all...I've now manged to get system to boot into windows by wrapping it up well and setting in the freezer for 2 hours. The best I can do is just open event viewer to see no red marks and down it goes.
Pretty much I think this narrows it down to the CPU or some component on the mainboard. Choosing the easier CPU route first to check though, I don't have much choice of Intel 370 Celerons. Original is lost to me, I have one with a cracked die head and, the one that 'booted' is a surplus 600Mhz that I'm not sure is really good or not. The board is meant to have a 1.1 Ghz Intel Celeron....so please does anyomne have a spare or expendible one of this size for me to try?? Or where could I find one to experiment with...Let me know
Pretty much I think this narrows it down to the CPU or some component on the mainboard. Choosing the easier CPU route first to check though, I don't have much choice of Intel 370 Celerons. Original is lost to me, I have one with a cracked die head and, the one that 'booted' is a surplus 600Mhz that I'm not sure is really good or not. The board is meant to have a 1.1 Ghz Intel Celeron....so please does anyomne have a spare or expendible one of this size for me to try?? Or where could I find one to experiment with...Let me know
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PPV voltage stands for Practical Peak Voltage, so this error is basically telling you that you're not getting enough power.
Are you trying to boot from AC or battery? I'd try the ac adaptor if you haven't already. The battery may be low.