3-month-old WD external hard drive won't spin up
It looks like at least one hard drive manufacturer has made it harder for its clients to recover data from an external drive when the HDD-to-USB electronic fail.
A new client of mine bought a WD My Passport 1TB external drive three months ago and transferred a bunch of essential business files to the drive in order to free up space on her main drive.
She did not institute backup procedures for this data. We don't need to discuss that here. I will do that with her later.
When I plug the drive into any of my PCs, including several Macs along with Windows machines, the enclosure light comes on, but the drive just makes a repetitive low-volume beep-like sound and does not spin up.
My normal procedure in dealing with an external drive failure is to remove the drive from the enclosure and hook it up to a DiskJockey that allows me to read the data from any PC. Of course, that is predicated on it being the SATA- or IDE-to-USB electronics that failed.
Imagine my surprise when I opened up the enclosure to find that the drive's electronics and the USB electronics have now merged into one board firmly strapped to the bottom of the drive. This renders my process moot and my ability to access the drive impossible.
Does anyone know how I can proceed? This data is valuable to the client; they need it now and taking it to a data recovery house is too expensive and takes too long. If necessary, that's what they will do, but I would like to avoid this if at all possible.
The drive uses a micro-USB connector on the drive-end of the cable.
One thing I considered is that the drive is not getting enough power to spin up, but I don't know how to get around that in this instance.
There is a 12-pin male connector to the left and a two-pin (jumper?) to the right of the USB connector.
Help!
DSC00451.JPG
A new client of mine bought a WD My Passport 1TB external drive three months ago and transferred a bunch of essential business files to the drive in order to free up space on her main drive.
She did not institute backup procedures for this data. We don't need to discuss that here. I will do that with her later.
When I plug the drive into any of my PCs, including several Macs along with Windows machines, the enclosure light comes on, but the drive just makes a repetitive low-volume beep-like sound and does not spin up.
My normal procedure in dealing with an external drive failure is to remove the drive from the enclosure and hook it up to a DiskJockey that allows me to read the data from any PC. Of course, that is predicated on it being the SATA- or IDE-to-USB electronics that failed.
Imagine my surprise when I opened up the enclosure to find that the drive's electronics and the USB electronics have now merged into one board firmly strapped to the bottom of the drive. This renders my process moot and my ability to access the drive impossible.
Does anyone know how I can proceed? This data is valuable to the client; they need it now and taking it to a data recovery house is too expensive and takes too long. If necessary, that's what they will do, but I would like to avoid this if at all possible.
The drive uses a micro-USB connector on the drive-end of the cable.
One thing I considered is that the drive is not getting enough power to spin up, but I don't know how to get around that in this instance.
There is a 12-pin male connector to the left and a two-pin (jumper?) to the right of the USB connector.
Help!
DSC00451.JPG
ASKER
OK. Here are the shots, hathehariken.
I probably voided the warranty anyway. There was foil tape around the bottom of the drive. However, that's not as important as getting the data.
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DSC00465.JPG
I probably voided the warranty anyway. There was foil tape around the bottom of the drive. However, that's not as important as getting the data.
DSC00452.JPG
DSC00455.JPG
DSC00465.JPG
ASKER
BTW -
I have hears the beeping that is caused by spindle spin-up, and it is usually quite audible, so I'm not sure about this sound. In the meantime, the spindle does NOT start up, so it may be that's what it is.
I have hears the beeping that is caused by spindle spin-up, and it is usually quite audible, so I'm not sure about this sound. In the meantime, the spindle does NOT start up, so it may be that's what it is.
i need to know, how good are you with a soldering iron?
i need you to make a better connection between the PCB connector and the motor pads.
can you take a picture of the 4 pins on the motor?
i have done this procedure many times - if you want, i have a drive with me that has this procedure done to it.
i can take some pictures of it.
ps: when taking these kinds of pictures, turn on the "macro" feature on your camera - its a picture of a plant or a flower.
i need you to make a better connection between the PCB connector and the motor pads.
can you take a picture of the 4 pins on the motor?
i have done this procedure many times - if you want, i have a drive with me that has this procedure done to it.
i can take some pictures of it.
ps: when taking these kinds of pictures, turn on the "macro" feature on your camera - its a picture of a plant or a flower.
ASKER
It's a flower, and it was on. I'll check it again.
I assume the motor pads are the four contacts to the upper right side of the circular cutout. Is that right?
Why would I need a better solder connection there?
I ran out of battery on the camera. Am charging it right now. Will post photo shortly.
I assume the motor pads are the four contacts to the upper right side of the circular cutout. Is that right?
Why would I need a better solder connection there?
I ran out of battery on the camera. Am charging it right now. Will post photo shortly.
--->I assume the motor pads are the four contacts to the upper right side of the circular cutout. Is that right?
you are right.
--->Why would I need a better solder connection there?
large explanation:
in the old days of ATA hard disks, these contacts used to be gold plated.
gold, as we all know, does not oxidize easily, and this enabled of proper transfer of power for a long time.
now-a-days, gold is not used to plate these pads, instead, an alloy of Tin, Silver and Gold is used.
under some circumstances, this alloy coating can oxidize, and create a bad connection thereby preventing proper flow of power.
and thereby the motor does not spinup properly.
if you can run and get a packet of "Silver Solder" it would be very nice.
Silver Solder contains about 5-10% of Silver. it is an even better conductor of electricity than 40/60 or 60/40 solder.
you did not answer my question:
how good are you with a soldering iron?
i will be very frank, not many people can do this kind of an operation - its tricky
if you are even 1% unsure, i would say, dont do this and send the drive to a recover agency.
you have to be confident - if you are, i can guide you through the process.
you are right.
--->Why would I need a better solder connection there?
large explanation:
in the old days of ATA hard disks, these contacts used to be gold plated.
gold, as we all know, does not oxidize easily, and this enabled of proper transfer of power for a long time.
now-a-days, gold is not used to plate these pads, instead, an alloy of Tin, Silver and Gold is used.
under some circumstances, this alloy coating can oxidize, and create a bad connection thereby preventing proper flow of power.
and thereby the motor does not spinup properly.
if you can run and get a packet of "Silver Solder" it would be very nice.
Silver Solder contains about 5-10% of Silver. it is an even better conductor of electricity than 40/60 or 60/40 solder.
you did not answer my question:
how good are you with a soldering iron?
i will be very frank, not many people can do this kind of an operation - its tricky
if you are even 1% unsure, i would say, dont do this and send the drive to a recover agency.
you have to be confident - if you are, i can guide you through the process.
ASKER
I would guess I'm about 90% sure. I'm pretty good.
Can you tell me what I need besides the type of solder (I already have it)? What type of point do I need on the iron, and what type (heat) of iron should I use? Any other stuff I should have on hand?
What's the procedure? By telling me that, I can gauge whether I feel comfortable doing the work.
I've tried taking better pictures (closer up in the bright sun, but I'm not getting much more than I posted already. Can I describe what I see?
Can you tell me what I need besides the type of solder (I already have it)? What type of point do I need on the iron, and what type (heat) of iron should I use? Any other stuff I should have on hand?
What's the procedure? By telling me that, I can gauge whether I feel comfortable doing the work.
I've tried taking better pictures (closer up in the bright sun, but I'm not getting much more than I posted already. Can I describe what I see?
ASKER
I neglected to ask maybe the most important question:
How sure are you this will resolve the issue?
How sure are you this will resolve the issue?
I had once a similar problem with a portable hdd (did not spin up) but, fortunately for me, it was a clasic sata hdd inside.
But after a while (few weeks) i tried the external hdd with another cable and it worked as new... so i tried all the usb cables from all my colegues, and surprise, with 12 out of 20 there was no spinning (all of the cables working before and after the test...) and i'm still using that hdd after 2 years, so, until something else comes up, try other cables :) (ones with a ... cilinder on the cable seem to do a better job)
Another thing to try is search an identical hdd and change the PCB (buy another new one eventualy)
Good luck ;)
But after a while (few weeks) i tried the external hdd with another cable and it worked as new... so i tried all the usb cables from all my colegues, and surprise, with 12 out of 20 there was no spinning (all of the cables working before and after the test...) and i'm still using that hdd after 2 years, so, until something else comes up, try other cables :) (ones with a ... cilinder on the cable seem to do a better job)
Another thing to try is search an identical hdd and change the PCB (buy another new one eventualy)
Good luck ;)
ASKER CERTIFIED SOLUTION
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please post the additional pics you have taken. i am sure, that some pics are better than no pics.
SOLUTION
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ASKER
So, here's the latest:
I called the client and it turns out she had another, unused, identical drive. I verified the second drive (drive B) works, then I swapped the electronics on the drives. The drive that didn't work before still failed to start up, and drive B started up just fine with drive A's electronics.
So, the problem appears to be not the electronics, but the drive itself.
hathehariken, does it still make sense to perform the soldering at this point? It looks to me like the problem is either the gold pads on the external bottom surface of the drive or an internal failure. Is there anything left you think I can do to recover the data, or do I need to send it out?
nobus - I looked at Gillware, and they at least appear to be a little less expensive than the excellent local place I use. If I don't use them this time, I will consider hem for the future. Thanks! (BTW - who is "Cy"? If you meant me, it's "Sid"!)
gabimartinescu - I tried every micro USB cable I had in house on every PC I own, including two Macs, with no joy. I will keep your idea in mind, and I appreciate you sharing it.
I don't think this will work, but I have placed the drive in the freezer for the next few hours. Who knows?
I called the client and it turns out she had another, unused, identical drive. I verified the second drive (drive B) works, then I swapped the electronics on the drives. The drive that didn't work before still failed to start up, and drive B started up just fine with drive A's electronics.
So, the problem appears to be not the electronics, but the drive itself.
hathehariken, does it still make sense to perform the soldering at this point? It looks to me like the problem is either the gold pads on the external bottom surface of the drive or an internal failure. Is there anything left you think I can do to recover the data, or do I need to send it out?
nobus - I looked at Gillware, and they at least appear to be a little less expensive than the excellent local place I use. If I don't use them this time, I will consider hem for the future. Thanks! (BTW - who is "Cy"? If you meant me, it's "Sid"!)
gabimartinescu - I tried every micro USB cable I had in house on every PC I own, including two Macs, with no joy. I will keep your idea in mind, and I appreciate you sharing it.
I don't think this will work, but I have placed the drive in the freezer for the next few hours. Who knows?
the freezer trick works, but that is the last resort.
can you upload a picture of the motor pads??
can you upload a picture of the motor pads??
Cy = Company
ASKER
nobus - Ah! I spoke with one of their people this morning for over an hour. I love their business philosophy!
Thanks for the referral!
hathehariken - The photos are listed now. The pads have some pretty deep indentations. I noticed that this morning. What Idid was reinstall the circuit board without the padding underneath so that the contacts might have a little more room, but that didn't work.
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Thanks for the referral!
hathehariken - The photos are listed now. The pads have some pretty deep indentations. I noticed that this morning. What Idid was reinstall the circuit board without the padding underneath so that the contacts might have a little more room, but that didn't work.
DSC00470.JPG
DSC00471.JPG
i dont think silvering them will do any good - they are without oxidisation
if they were tinted or in any way colored other than pretty gold, tinning would have made a better connection.
it is my opinion that your drive really has that spindle failure i talked about previously, and my suggestion that you send this drive to a data recovery agency
Gillware or Ontrack Services.
i used Ontrack twice, Gillware once. both are equally good.
Ontrack is a bit costlier but they are very professional.
if they were tinted or in any way colored other than pretty gold, tinning would have made a better connection.
it is my opinion that your drive really has that spindle failure i talked about previously, and my suggestion that you send this drive to a data recovery agency
Gillware or Ontrack Services.
i used Ontrack twice, Gillware once. both are equally good.
Ontrack is a bit costlier but they are very professional.
ASKER
Yeah. I figured that's where we are with this.
I spoke with Gillware this morning and I am very impressed with their business philosophy. I plan to use them if the client wishes to go forward. Thanks!
I'll post back here to let you know how this goes, even though the thread will be closed in a few minutes.
I spoke with Gillware this morning and I am very impressed with their business philosophy. I plan to use them if the client wishes to go forward. Thanks!
I'll post back here to let you know how this goes, even though the thread will be closed in a few minutes.
ASKER
One other thing I'm going to do, and that I should have done maybe first, is look at the buzz on the web about these particular drives to see if WD has a problem and maybe even a solution.
Thank you all!
Thank you all!
you are most welcome.
we will wait for your update.
we will wait for your update.
ASKER
nobus -
I owe you for introducing me to Gillware. Is there a way to contact you directly through the EE site (as opposed to through a thread)? I would like to discuss your experiences with them. I also want to let them know that you referred me.
I owe you for introducing me to Gillware. Is there a way to contact you directly through the EE site (as opposed to through a thread)? I would like to discuss your experiences with them. I also want to let them know that you referred me.
thank you for the points - this procedure is a must for any IT guy worth their salt. after all, what good are you if you can take out a 30 watt soldering iron and fix a dead HDD?? :D
i am not being snooty, but i think nobus should have got some.
i am not being snooty, but i think nobus should have got some.
ASKER
Actually, I intended to give him some, but clicked the wrong button after your reward. I'll contact the monitors and see if I can change that.
ASKER
OK. I've redistributed the points. Thanks, fellas!
that seems fair.
thank you.
thank you.
thanks to both of you; it is appreciated.
>> I would like to discuss your experiences with them << i'll post them here :
-personally, i did not have to use them (yet)
-but thru my posts here, i have referred to them hundreds of times, and up to now (i hold my head) i received 0 negative reactions, but several VERY positive ones.
-several very experienced experts here do recommend them warmly
i hope this answers your Q ? for contact, i believe it's in my profile
>> I would like to discuss your experiences with them << i'll post them here :
-personally, i did not have to use them (yet)
-but thru my posts here, i have referred to them hundreds of times, and up to now (i hold my head) i received 0 negative reactions, but several VERY positive ones.
-several very experienced experts here do recommend them warmly
i hope this answers your Q ? for contact, i believe it's in my profile
I know this is an old post but in case anyone is still following it, I've bought the very same hard-drive and have had the exact same problem. I dropped mine from about 18" and it landed flat. It worked for a bit and then that was it. It too will lite up but that's it. Geek Squad (I bought the drive at Best Buy) couldn't do anything with it.
I don't know if it's a WD thing or a USB 3.0 thing or what. I've always had good luck with WD but I'm skeptical now on 3.0 connections. Might have absolutely NOTHING to do with the problem at all. It's just that it's new technology.
Anyway, thanks for the info above. My IT lady tried the freezer trick too but it didn't work. Now I'm looking for a case that I can hopefully put the drive in and see if it will work (eg: Black X by ThermaltakeUSA sells one that I've used for other SATA drives that I've had that the case pin connections failed/broke on).
Thanks for the information above though.
Rod
I don't know if it's a WD thing or a USB 3.0 thing or what. I've always had good luck with WD but I'm skeptical now on 3.0 connections. Might have absolutely NOTHING to do with the problem at all. It's just that it's new technology.
Anyway, thanks for the info above. My IT lady tried the freezer trick too but it didn't work. Now I'm looking for a case that I can hopefully put the drive in and see if it will work (eg: Black X by ThermaltakeUSA sells one that I've used for other SATA drives that I've had that the case pin connections failed/broke on).
Thanks for the information above though.
Rod
even if you could hook up the HDD to a SATA port, i dont think you get get the drive to initialise.
what you CAN do however, is to give it raw external power - 5VDC and 12VDC (and most probably 3.3VDC - if drive is sata)
and see if the drive spins up - if it does, copy off the data and RMA.
a picture of the PCB would help matters.
if you can remove the PCB from the drive chasis and take a picsture, it would be even better.
remember, you would require Torx screwdrivers.
if there are no stickers, this activity cannot void your warranty.