1.4ghz tbird runing at 60c

In spite of what you think, it's NOT too hot.  70C is too hot.  60C is 10C under the limit.

If you're losing sleep over this, however, you can either improve the CPU cooling directly and/or lower the temp in the case.  Either will likely help.  If the case temp is high, then you should reduce that first and see what happens.  It's hard to move CPU heat into hot air.  The lower the temp of the case air, the more efficient the CPU fan/heatsink are in doing their job.

There seems to be a lot of haot air here today;-).  Don't worry you're ok.  There are some specs here if you are concerned about how to keep your AMD CPU cool.  http://ask.amd.com/SRVS/CGI-BIN/WEBCGI.EXE/,/?St=5,E=0000000000014198269,K=11,Sxi=14,Problem=obj(310)

or

http://www1.amd.com/athlon/config

I'll try again,
The Maximum Die Temperature for an Athlon core is:
up to 1 GHz...90C
1.1GHz and above...95C.
Recommended Shut Down Temp...70C(158F).
Recommended Warning Temp.....66C(151F).
The lower shutdown temp is recommended to prevent possible core damage and extend core life.
Two keys to better cooling.
1. Maximize case ventilation.
2. Utilize an extremely efficient cpu fan/heatsink.
My Athlon 1.33:
CPU Temp...46C/114F
System Temp...29C/84F
Room Temp.....28C/82F
Case ventilation 100cfm, push/pull
Cpu fan/heatsink 36cfm/450g pure copper.
You can lower temps but you need an appropriate case/fans and cpu cooler. Both must be in place...T

What kind of Fan/Heatsink do you have on this puppy?  I would recommend getting a larger HSF unit if you want to drop your CPU temp.  

Make sure that you have good contact with your cpu.  Use thermal grease (that white paste) between your CPU and HSF for better heat transfer.

The real problem with Athlons is that they havent termal diode integrated in the core and the temperature of the core is measured with temp sensor build in the MB.And all depends from thermal contact between processor and this temperature sensor...

This is not a problem, as most mfgs have accounted for this in their designs...also one of the reasons the shutdown temperature is consevatively well below the Maximum Die Temperature.

"The real problem with Athlons is that they havent termal diode integrated in the core and the temperature
of the core is measured with temp sensor build in the MB.And all depends from thermal contact between
processor and this temperature sensor..."

Most INTEL systems also rely on a sensor on the motherboard for these readings.:-)

if you are looking for a better thermal solution i would recommend a Thermaltake SK6 and use thermal paste  (not the tape provided with most heatsinks) they usually can run a 1.4 Ghz t-bird at 34-38c under full load.  you can find the heatsink and paste at www.coolerguys.com for a good price.

In my experience this operating temprature is WAY too hot, not that it is over spec but for most people their 1.4Ghz runs under 50c at full load......may be the sensor  may be not..... but 60c sounds too hot to leave that way (heat shortens the life of a cpu),

my .02   cya

A fan that blows onto the heatsink rather than sucking through it cannot remove teh same amount of heat.  This is a principle of the physics of air and the fact that it expands as it gets warmer.  I have seen systems that were running hot because the fan was blowing into the heatsink rather than away from it.  It is only a few degrees, but that is what we are talking about here.

>> A fan that blows onto the heatsink rather than sucking through it cannot remove teh same amount of heat.

Pbessman - this depends _very_ much on the heatsink in question.  Some are better with fan blowing, some with fan sucking.  Ther rule of thumb is to set the fan to blow down, because more are designed this way.


ipimppeoplelikeyou: I wouldn't be _too_ worried about a 1.4 running at 60C.  BUT, I would check that this is the running temp, not the idle temp (ie how hot does it get during intensive 3D games, heavy calculations etc?).

Also, don't rely on a single temp measurement.  At the very least get a few monitoring programs (like Asus Probe, MotherBoard Monitor etc) and compare their reports - I've sometimes found discrepencies as large as 30C between programs reading off the same probe.

Better still, get a thermal probe and check the temp yourself (this also relates to 1175089's comment).

If you can make sure ambient temps are kept to at least 75 degrees.  I have known people to have cooling problems based on the fact that where they have their system does not get adequate circulation(as in under a desk in one of those closed in units).  The system does need to breathe and if you smoke around your computer, you can negatively be affecting it.  SOunds like a new system, and unless you are smoking 2 plus packs a day around it, it should be fine.  In working on peoples systems I have gotten to know about some of their habits, whether they smoke, use hairspray, keep the system in the kitchen, have dogs or cats.  These things are great for trapping evidence.

"Ther rule of thumb is to set the fan to blow down, because more are designed this way."

Just because many are done this way does not make it right.;-p

This is from ASUS's web site:
http://www.asus.com.tw/products/techref/tech-report/mthmbqa.html
"Question:
After upgrading A7A266 BIOS from ver.1003 to ver.1004, the reading of CPU temperature in BIOS setup is obviously higher than in the previous versions. What is wrong?

Answer:
It is normal. Because we calibrated the CPU temperature in A7A266 BIOS ver. 1004, the new reading is more accurate and higher than the previous BIOS versions." END.

i'm not sure what heat sink and fan i have.. i know it's amd approved.. i think i'm just gonna buy a new one since they are only like 40 bucks, how do i get the old one off?

Carefully ;  ).

First, turn the power off at the back of the power supply, or if there is no switch there turn it off at the socket - leave the PC plugged in so it is earthed.  Try and do all of this leaning your arms on the metal of your case, to avoid possibly zapping the CPU with static electricity.

Grip the CPU with one hand, and the heatsink in the other. Twist _gently_.  It is dificult to know how hard to twist: if you'v got a thermal pad of thermal paste then it should give a little, then pop off (kind of like separating two pieces of wet glass).  If you have thermal epoxy, you'll have to twist harder, and it will just pop suddenly when the epoxy cracks.

Because the heatsink is attached to the CPU lug, you aren't all that likely to break it, BUT you need to be very careful about the pins and the grey edge of the CPU.

Once you've got the heatsink off, clean up the CPU surface with a razorblade, or a cotton swab and a tiny dab of isopropyl alcohol.  


If you are really having trouble, leave the PC off for an hour or so and the seal it (thoroughly) inside an anti-static bag (or two), and whack it in the freezer for about fifteen minutes.  As soon as it comes out, try the gentle twist again - the thermal paste/pad should be brittle now, and break fairly easily.



If this all sounds like a bit much (and it is possible that you'll _totally_ destroy your CPU if they've used superglue or thermal epoxy, or even if you're just unlucky) take it to a shop and pay them to do it - that way if they break it, they pay!

Oh, and I would also suggest that before you buy a new heatsink you try some different monitoring software to get a second opinion, or you may be disappointed.

What is the real issue here?  Are you having other problems you think are heat related?

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