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motherboard/cpu trouble!!!

i recently bought an AMD XP 1800+ and a Gigabyte GA7DXR+ motherboard. i installed everything up to par and when i turned it on i did not get a screen, the monitor didnt even turn on... i recieve power through the motherboard and drives, but no BEEP!!! it doesnt even go through the Post beep! i pulled out the ram and tried starting again, same thing... so i put it back in,    i started again with nothing but my cpu, same problem, so i think i have narrowed it down to 2 things, but i'm still not sure
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jack902902
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jack902902
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1 Solution
 
Death-SpeakCommented:
Sounds like the motherboard or cpu. Make sure its mounted correctly, and if you didn't use a shim on your cpu, make sure you didn't crack it mounting the HSF. Also check Gigabytes website for compatability issues/BIOS updates.
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ketapillarCommented:
I had the same problem with an Epox MB.  It was comming in contact with the case.  Try taking the mb out of the case connecting everything and starting it up.

The case was shorting out the MB.

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jack902902Author Commented:
I did pull out the cpu to see if it was cracked, but it was all intact, so i placed it back on.... i have yet to pull out the motherboard and see if it is shorting, but if my mobo was shorting, can i still get power running through the mobo? because the dummy light is on and sysfans plugged in the board are running. i will however pull out the mobo later and see
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jack902902Author Commented:
I did pull out the cpu to see if it was cracked, but it was all intact, so i placed it back on.... i have yet to pull out the motherboard and see if it is shorting, but if my mobo was shorting, can i still get power running through the mobo? because the dummy light is on and sysfans plugged in the board are running. i will however pull out the mobo later and see
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WakeupCommented:
jack902902,

Unplugg everything that is not necessary...No drives no floppy no sound card or extra peripherals.  Take it down to just memory CPU and Video.  Also just for the heck of it, reset the Motherboard bios.  Maybe there were some settings for the CPU set in there that were outside the range of your processor.  Or maybe you got a used board which was set up for something else.
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jlausterCommented:
Reseat your video card and memory, and make sure that they are completely inserted. If the motherboard is flexing at all while inserting the hardware, you will need to support the motherboard beneath the video card and RAM slots.
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jack902902Author Commented:
i already pulled out everything and turned on my pc one by one adding back everything... same problem, i dont see how i'd reset my bios since my screen wont even come up,,, see what i'm saying now? seems to be no communication between my cpu/bios/motherboard.... i am ONLY getting power, power through the motherboard and devices, just no response... it's irratating
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jack902902Author Commented:
basically i am trying to figure out if it is in fact a defect in hardware, and if so... i need to figure if it is the cpu or motherboard so that i can send it back in time before the warranty.
would the motherboard go through the bios post if the cpu is bad?
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WiZaRdCommented:
Is the power supply at least 300w ? If not then this could well be the problem.
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jack902902Author Commented:
good point, i never thought about that... it's an enermax 350w ps. today, i also pulled the motherboard out completly and tried turning it on. i felt heat beneath the northbridge controller but it was dead cold under the cpu, i am narrowing down to turning back my cpu... unless it could still be a defect in the motherboard
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WakeupCommented:
Jack,

Just cuz it's cold under the processor doesnt mean the CPU is dead.  So it may still be the moboard.  I would suggest if you have friends w/ a spare proccessor, or board that supports your XP 1800, to try them either way.  Or if you know of someone with an XP capable board just swap your CPU with his.  But be careful, to not damage the CPU's either way.  Since slapping on the Heat Synch and fan is not the easiest thing to do.  One thing that you may keep in mind is that if you put too much Heatsynch compound that could have shorted the processor.  And would be the prob w/ yer system.
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WiZaRdCommented:
So the PS is 350w. In that case I'm leaning towards faulty mobo as it's a lot more common than faulty CPU.
At this point I'd go back to place of purchase so as not to endanger warranty. You've already said it's mobo or CPU which are both new components so hopefully you got them both at the same place and they should test and replace under warranty.
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WiZaRdCommented:
So the PS is 350w. In that case I'm leaning towards faulty mobo as it's a lot more common than faulty CPU.
At this point I'd go back to place of purchase so as not to endanger warranty. You've already said it's mobo or CPU which are both new components so hopefully you got them both at the same place and they should test and replace under warranty.
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NickLoCommented:
This is getting very interresting although frustrating for jack.  First of all the MB must be configured for the speed of the CPU.  The MB must not be set to run at a higher speed than that of the CPU.  It is O.K. however to drive a CPU atlower than its rated speed.  Make sure the supply connectors are plugged on to the MB the correct way (The two black leads in the middle).  Switch Mode Power Supplies do not work without some load connected at the output terminals.  Use a spare disk drive power supply socket to measure the voltage with the motherboard and disk drives connected.  If there is no spare power supply socket, then unplug the one used for the floppy disk drive.
The yellow lea is the +12V, the two black leads in the middle are the Gnd and the red lead is the +5V.  Both voltages measured with respect to the Gnd terminal.  This will enstablish that your power supply is working correctly.  Also make sure that your graphics card if not an integral part of the MB is fast enough for the speed of the machine used.  If you use an old graphics card designed for low speed machines, it will not respond to the high speed of the MB.  If the Ram is O.K. and the CPU is not faulty and the MB is preperly configured, then you should be able to hear a few clicks.
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WiZaRdCommented:
NickLo if this is an ATX power supply (should be as I don't believe you could plug AT to this config.) then the connector will be all one unit and black to black is a given.
"i recieve power through the motherboard and drives"
Establishes power supply is working.
Re-iterate take it back to the supplier before you do something that may void your warranty. Delaying this could result in a repair under warranty rather than a replacement on the spot.
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WakeupCommented:
Jack,

If you dont have the manul for the Mother board, It can be found here:
http://ftp.gigabyte.com.tw/support/user_pdf/e_7dx(r)+_1003.pdf

This has jumper settings to set the CPU for Autodetect or manual CPU settings.  Maybe your board is set for some settings other than Auto or other than your processor speed?  Hence the reason why we need to get your bios to factory default settings if they are not already.  What I would also suggest, if you can, is to take the battery out of the motherboard and unplug your power cable to the powersupply.  Leave it out for a minute or two.  Then put the battery back in and plug the powersupply back in.  This should hopefully reset your bios.  Try those things and see if they help.
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jack902902Author Commented:
thanks for all your help everyone... i have a class that i go to on thursdays and i'll bring my motherboard&cpu to see which one is actually bad, perhaps both, but not likely. i'll get back and give points to who was closest or did in fact solve this worm-hole of possibilities.
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jack902902Author Commented:
thanks for all your help everyone... i have a class that i go to on thursdays and i'll bring my motherboard&cpu to see which one is actually bad, perhaps both, but not likely. i'll get back and give points to who was closest or did in fact solve this worm-hole of possibilities.
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Kyle SchroederEndpoint EngineerCommented:
jack:

One other possibility that drove me to the brink of insanity (and finally pushed me over when I discovered it!) was the 115V/220V switch on the back of the power supply.  The fans would kick on, drives would hum, but no boot up at all.  Disconnected power, switched the red switch on the PSU so that 115V was showing, and zoom away it went.  Some (heh, most) of these power supplies are made in Taiwan or China (or some other part of the world) and are set to 220V to prevent damage to the system in case 220V is supplied (many countries have this as the standard power output).  So the PSU is providing power, but not enough (the switch is set so that its trying to output 220V but you have only 120V going in, assuming you're in US or Canada, etc).

Its worth checking.  I was about to pull my hair out and scrap the whole system when I finally found this.

-dog*
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jack902902Author Commented:
LoL, i'm glad u got ur pc working. well i'm using the same powersupply right now with my other motherboard, it's working fine. on the otherhand we trouble shooted long enough to figure that it was the cpu. we pulled out the ram and tried it in another motherboard, it booted up fine. then tried putting my cpu in another motherboard and the same problem occured again. so basically i'm screwed over untill i can get a replacement from AMD themselves..
thanks for the suggestion
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WakeupCommented:
Jack902902,

So you figured it out to be the Processor eh?  That is a bummer.  I hope your new Processor will not give you as much trouble!  Let us know if there is anything else we can do to help!
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jack902902Author Commented:
figured out problem eventually by troubleshooting upon preassumptions... if i had not known what to do Wakeup would have helped me solve the problem just as good or sooner.
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