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Avatar of tongalite
tongalite

Expert help needed/Re:Dell XPS T500
Bought a Dell Dimension xps T500 base unit on an auction. I thought it would make a good backup system to my Athlon xp 2200. After a week I unpacked it and I find it won't boot up. I am a complete pc novice, under the hood that is. I have only installed mem sticks, sound card and cdrom/writer.
 
Here's the 'plot'
I plugged in a power chord and threw the switch. The case cooling fan and power supply fan spun briefly and stopped. at the same time the Start & Reset buttons came on momentarilly then died. There is a tiny orange light on the mobo... this stays on so the mobo must be getting some power from somewhere. When switching off the power at the wall socket the little mobo light does not immediately die... it stays on for about 5-6 seconds then goes out (?)
 
Actions taken.
checked all 4 pin connectors... all seem snug. Mobo 20 pin connector is ok & snug
Removed and reinstalled cpu and mem stick. (powered up - nothing!)
Removed sound card and video AGP card (powered up - nothing!)
 
I decided to try another power supply but on checking, the spare I have is incompatible. The Dell power supply has an 'extra' flat 6 pin connector, it is white and has 3 black wires and 3 navy wires. It plugs in next to the mobo power 20 pin connector. My spare does not have these 6 wires and connector.
 
Has anybody any ideas what I could try next? or any theories as to what could be causing the problem?
TIA
T

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Avatar of tmj883tmj883

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Avatar of kkiedrowskikkiedrowski🇺🇸

Definately sounds like a power supply issue. That being usually the cheapest option to check I would start there

Avatar of tongalitetongalite

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Hi tmj883,
thanks for that URL.... that explains the 'extra' 6 pin connector. That would be the cheapest way to test the PS. I've learned that the tiny orange light mentioned in my question should in fact be green... I don't like what that suggests.
I can't test the PIII 500 or the MB. I don't have a spare cpu.... any more ideas
Thanks

T.

Avatar of kkiedrowskikkiedrowski🇺🇸

If you can get away with testing the power supply and that still does nothing. at that point I would question the cost of your time spent repairing  and acquiring test parts vs. just purchasing a new Motherboard. If the worse case is true some sort of electrical disturbance occurred [power surge or something of that nature]. If that id happen the computer could act just fine for a while and eventually die again [another part weakened by the power problem]. Just from my experience I have seen power problems wreak havoc on systems.

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Avatar of CallandorCallandor🇺🇸

I suggest removing everything from the PCI slots and the IDE connectors and try to boot with just your motherboard, video, RAM, and a floppy.  I would also try replacing the CMOS battery, in case it is dead, but I would reset the CMOS in any event (you can pull the CMOS battery, which is button-sized, and leave it out for several days, or move the CCMOS jumper on the motherboard to clear, and then move it back).

Have you reset the bios?  That would be the first thing I would do.  If that does not work then as suggested above put a new battering in.

Hi guys... here's a bit more info....

I only received this machine very recently (3 days ago) and haven't used it yet. The seller told me it was working perfectly. He formatted the HD. There is no OS on the HD. I plugged in a power cord, monitor, keyboard and mouse and switched the power on (zilch!) I had my win98se disk ready to install but can't even get it to boot into anything. The rest is described in my original question.

Callandor... the cmos battery... is it the round siver one about 20mm diam? If yes, I took that out and then put it back again.. I was careful to handle just the edge.

buckeyes33,
How do you propose I should set the bios?

thanks
T

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>>How do you propose I should set the bios?
I meant clear the CMOS.  You would have done that when you removed the battery.

I think that it might just be best to get back with the seller and tell him/her that it does not work.

Hm...
That was the first thing I did ;-)
T

Avatar of CallandorCallandor🇺🇸

Did you disconnect the hard drive, remove all PCI cards, and try to boot from a floppy?

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Callandor,
No I didn't do that..
I have tried removing the sound card (that's the only PCI card in the slots) and pulling all the IDE connectors (cdrom and HDD) same thing 2 seconds of case cooling fan and PS fan activity then cutout... I'm switching on at the wall socket BTW since by the time I get to the PC power-up button and reset button both those do zilch... the connectors ar a snug fit. The two LED lights come on and die along with the fans... as do the 4 diagnostic LEDs on the back panel. I get no beeps whatever when throwing the power switch... no bios beeps to say soemethin's wrong... just a bit of dust blown in my face and a little orange light on the MB... I'm baffled!

Thanks for your time guys
T.

I would be safe to bet that it is either the motherboard or the power supply.  Are you able to change out the power supply.  Did you open the case up before you were able to test the computer?  Is there a chance that you juiced it will static?  That is one of the big problems that happens during the winter.

Avatar of CallandorCallandor🇺🇸

So you're back to what tmj883 first suggested: RAM, motherboard, or cpu.  Replace one at a time and see what happens.

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You mean power supply...I think that the original Dx remains valid. Unfortunately, most Dell systems have marginal power supplies, usually just enough to power the system and no reserve, thus they die an abrupt death. The orange and not green light on the mainboard is suggestive of the failed Power_Good signal. If you can fit a standard ATX power supply in the case all you need is a cheap 300 watt power supply (any one will be superior in spec to the OEM) and the adapter. This is a standard method to replace an expensive Dell unit. The supplier mentioned has been used and proved reliable...get a cheap power supply at CompUSA. T

Avatar of CallandorCallandor🇺🇸

My mistake, tmj883 - yes, I meant power supply.

No problemo...seems like the cheapest place to start, with the PS...then on...T

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Hi tmj883
I forgot to mention... I'm based in the UK so The compUSA is not an option, I'll have to try and hunt down a converter here.. I did a quick Google but haven't found a supply yet... maybe Dell.co.uk if there's such a url. The seller has said that if I dertermine that it's definitely a kaput MB  he'll chip in £30. Now I have to find/borrow/steal/ a cpu and that damned converter in order to test and rule out the PS and CPU   {8¬|
T.

Tmj883,

I would like to close this Q and your comment put me wise.
The PC is no longer with me so the Q is now academic. I do however have a sub question before awarding you the points.

The spare PSU I have is a standard ATX and would not work in the Dell (as you rightly showed me with the converter link) Now I'm unsure if this PSU is actually working... Can you tell me if I simply plug it into the mains supply should the fan switch on? or is it reliant on feedback from the MB perhaps?
How can I test if its functional without attching to a pc system?
Thanks in advance.
T.

ATX power supplies must be attached to a proper load in order to function. A simple power supply tester is available from (CompUSA) for about US$20, complete with idiot lights that check that the voltages are within specification...it does not test for proper amperage. I do not recommend the use of individual resistors(3 ceramic type 5watt, 5-10-15ohm, 3.3v-5v-12v) to provide a working load due to the risk of fire. Resistors will become very hot. Even the tester becomes hot and it is recommended that use be limited to short periods to prevent a fire hazard. You can test with a old ATX mainboard and HDD to provide the proper load if you can't find a tester. Or you can search for a dummy load that is probably available in the UK. Just saw the CompUSA power supply tester available at:
www.directron.com
for US$10. Similar supply shops in the UK should carry a similar item.
While testing, I suggest checking the voltage output with a multimeter for accurate voltage evaluation but this still does not address the issue of correct amperage. Minor issue as if the voltage is correct, the amperage will most likely be so. Shop around as there are other types of dummy loads that are sold, may be cheaper without the idiot lights but you'll have to test with a multimeter for correct voltage.
You are welcome in advance...good luck and have fun computing...
T

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Thanks to all 'sperts' for responses
cheers
T.

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