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How to add additional users to a network???

Posted on 2004-08-17
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What do I need to to do to add additional users to a network? We have an office that we are expanding and would like to utilize the same network line for the additional computers. (The office will have a total of 3 computers, ethernet connection, cat5 cables). Each computer can currently log on individually to the network as long as they are connected directly to the the network line. I bought a D-Link 5 port switch to connect all of the computers to the same network line. However,
It wont allow anyone on the network. Is this the right apperatus to connect my computers to the network(and what might I be doing wrong) or should I be using something else. ? Thanks much-
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Question by:bananaamy
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by:Ollien
ID: 11820045
Hi, I'm not exactly sure what you are saying, what do you mean by a network line?  Are you talking of an internet connection, or just a local connection of some sort.  The original 3 computers, how are they connected?  Is the switch new apparatus, is it connected at all?

Please be specific as to what environment you are in, you are not port of a corporate network by any chance are you?

Thanks, Ollie
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by:Mike_Carroll
ID: 11820127
Can you please elaborate on what you mean by 'network line'? Sounds like you are referring to a CAT5 drop...

The Dlink switch should be fine. You will need a CAT5 patch cable going to each of the PCs on your network.

You also need to configure networking on each of the PCs. You need to ensure that they have different machine names and all have the same workgroup setting.

You will then need to ensure that they are all running the same protocol, say for example TCP/IP or for simplicity if you are running older versions of Windows, try Netbios (NETBEUI).

Netbios has the advantage that there is no configuration involved but it has a major drawback in that it is not routable. For a small LAN, it works fine and is very convenient.

If you decide to go with TCP/IP which is faster and routable, ensure that each machine has it's own IP address which is unique and all within the same range. I would suggest 192.168.0.100 for PC1, 192.168.0.101 for PC2, 192.168.0.102 for PC3 and so on. Also, ensure that the subnet mask on each is set to 255.255.255.0.

If you would like to give me more details about the versions of Windows you are running, I'll give you a bit more on the setup.

Happy networking,

M
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by:sirbounty
ID: 11820141
The D-link - if it has a built in router may be providing an IP address for you.
You'll need to configure it.  Typically this can be done from one of the connected computers by browsing to Http://192.168.0.1
The manual should give you further instructions (if I recall the username is admin with no password by default) - you can either turn off DHCP make sure that the Dlink is getting it's IP address from the other network.
It would help if you could post the results from
Start->Run->CMD
and then
IPCONFIG > IP.TXT

(you may substitute command for cmd in the above if it doesn't work).
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Author Comment

by:bananaamy
ID: 11820376
I am connecting to a LAN -, - not internet. The 3 computers currently utilize the same network drop line by unplugging someone else. The switch would be a new. Model DGS1005D
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Author Comment

by:bananaamy
ID: 11820755
The enviroment is a "corporate network ", we have 3 additional drives that we can access thru this network...  However, we lack an IT department. The individual that trys to address computer related issues is an accountant. - needless to say we are struggling just a bit.... My computer operates on W2K-, and the other 2 use w98.
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by:Ollien
Ollien earned 100 total points
ID: 11820834
Ok, seeing the box you have is just a standard switch, with no management, ignore sirbounty's comment as it doesn't apply.
I assume by 'log on to network' you mean connect to the other computers, not a server of any sort.

Depending on how your drop line is set up, basically all you have to do is connect all computers directly to the switch.  It can be through your drop line but make sure all the connections that originate from a computer terminate at the switch, not anything else like another computer or the like.  Once that is set up and all computers are connected (check status lights on the switch when comps are turned on), you can configure your network.

(If your have multiple drop lines that all end up at one place you can place the switch there, if you only have one straight line, you can only connect one comp through that with the other end connected straight into the switch, unless you are bridging the connections somewhere...)

Seeing it was warking before, it should continue to work the same way.  The switch is acts simply like an electrical powerboard that lets all the computers communicate with each other.

If your network doesn't work, you should try and set up your network protocols.  In the network setup or the properties of your network adapters, the best protocol to use is TCP/IP.  Disable/uninstall any NetBEUI if you choose this.  The best way to set your network up is with static IP's, seeing you have no DHCP server.  In the TCP/IP properties specify an IP address and subnet mask.  A good range to use is 192.168.0.100 - 255 when not using any servers, eg. PC1 192.168.0.100, PC2 192.168.0.101, etc.  The subnet mask has to be the same, usually 255.255.255.0 (default too i think).

Good Luck and let us know how you go.
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Author Comment

by:bananaamy
ID: 11821471
Ollie- we are trying to connect to a network server, not network these 3 computers. I put a database on the server so that it is backed up nightly. All of these computers want to access this same database at the same time. (this is my goal).
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by:riparius
ID: 11821704
The Dlink is a nice new auto-negotiation gigabit switch, it should work fine, but it is also very possible it is so much newer than your old switch (the one on the other end of your existing drop) that they may not be communicating well.   Can you tell us what your "drop line" goes to?  It should be a switch or hub.  There are distance rules, number of hub / switch rules and other possible issues, but we need a little more data to work with.

My best guess at this time is that you have connected a new high speed auto negotiating switch to an older hub / switch, and they are not communicating.  You may need to replace the upstream hub if it is old.  It (the dlink)  is supposed to work, but there is a reason people are wary of mixing network gear.

It is also possible that the upstream switch is managed (like an expensive Cisco unit) and is not allowing multiple mac addresses per line.  This is one reason we need more data.  A lot of the hints in the postings above only work if your hardware ethernet layer is operating, so lets start there.

Tests:
Usually switches have status lights ...can you tell us what they indicate?  When you plug in each unit you normally see a light go on and start flashing as it communicates....does this happen as each of the 4 cables is connected?  Do you get flashing lights on the back of the pcs (at the network card) ?

Specifically what lights do you get if you just plug the drop into the dlink?

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Author Comment

by:bananaamy
ID: 11822043
Currently, there is no hub or switch. Just a patch cable that goes from the outlet in the wall, and connects to the back of my computer thru the network card (Intel(R) PRO/100 M Network Connection). All 3 computers can operate on the network individual thru this cable. In otherwords, I have to unplug 1 to plug another in.

What I have attempted to do is connect a patch cable from the wall terminal to the switch(the uplink port "slot 1") then I connect my computer to the second slot. (and subsquently connect the other computers to the additional slots)  

If I look at the switch,there is a power light that is on, then you see two rows. The first row (speed : orange 100/green 1000m)
When 1 computer is connected, The first slot is not lite, but the second slot the slot is a solid orange. The second row (link: green solid/green activity)
Both slot 1 and 2 are flashing. The network card status lights shows a solid orange light on the top and a flashing lighter orange on the bottom....
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by:riparius
ID: 11822228
There has to be something on the other end of the wall outlet.    
Are you saying that it connects directly to another pc somewhere else  in the building withou going through a hub ?

If so that means that somewhere in your wiring you have a custom crossover cable with the transmit and received pairs reversed (otherwise a pc to pc link won't work)  A quick fix is to simply not use the uplink port....plug it in to one of the others.  If that does not work, the custom cable should be found and replaced with a standard cable.  

Look for the Orange and orangewhite wires and make sure they connect to pins 1 and 3 on both ends of the cable (that would be standard, if yours are non-standard...just make sure the color wire on pin one is the same on each end....if not is a crossover cable)  
Note: this might have been done on the back of the wall outlet.
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Author Comment

by:bananaamy
ID: 11822299
Sorry, the plug in the wall, is cabled to a server.
The server which is upstairs in a  closet has cat 5 cables strung thru-out our plant. I have one cale drop to my office. This is the connection that I want to share with the two new computers that I have added to my office.
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riparius earned 400 total points
ID: 11823178
Ok...the server then connects to a hub or switch in the closet (unless you somehow got 5 ethernet cards in it!)..thats the one that may not be talking to you.  This is starting to make sense:

1. Your new switch is a gigbit switch  they always use straight through patch cables and don't have actual uplink ports because...this is important.....they use all 8 wires unlike 10/100 mb/sec ethernet.

2. I suspect your old switch / hub is either 10 or 100 mb/sec.

3. When they wired your network they may not have connected all 8 wires,  or have a wiring problem in the wires that were unused until you plugged a gigabit switch into it. (brown and blue pairs I think...)

4. You are not getting a link light on your uplink....sounds like  no light indicates either no link or only 10mb/sec.

This is starting to look like either a wiring issue that is "new" only because gigabit uses all 8 wires  or incompatibility with whatever hub is in the closet.  My best guess is that if you plug in a 10/100 switch  instead of the gigabit unit, it might just work (since your pc's do, and they are lighting up as 100's).  Checking out your wall wiring takes a $5000 tester to actually confirm that it passes certification for gigabit ...but I don't think you need that speed for 3 users anyway.
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Author Comment

by:bananaamy
ID: 11823437
Thanks, I truly  appreciate everyones help. I will try a different switch. If it doesnt work... I let you know.
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by:Ollien
ID: 11827897
Hi, great to hear you have got somewhere.

I would just like to mention a couple of final things I noted.

I think you have the server connected straight into one end of the drop line.  At the other end which you are connecting to the switch use just a crossover CAT5 cable, if connecting to the uplink port. The uplink port is just a crossover in itself, it is built for connecting two switches or similar with a standard CAT5 cable, straight port to uplink on the sub switch so that they can communicate.  Therefore when using with just a computer, use a crossover like you did to reverse it.  If any computer is connected to the other ports then you must use a straight cable.  In this situation just treat your 'server' another computer.  Don't worry too much about gigabit, I very much doubt any of your computers' ethernet cards are gigabit capable.

In your comment on 08/17/2004 09:04AM PDT you spoke of the different status lights, all that looks good.  A blank light in the top simply means the speed is not at 100/1000, hence 10 like rip said.  Worry about the one on the bottom.  If it is flashing, it means there is activity, that is good.

I think for starterts your goal would be to connect all the computers, turn them on and have there corresponding status light on (preferably green at the bottom, orange may mean it is connected reversely; using a crossover when you shouldn't or using the uplink port wrongly).  To be sure, seeing we can't be sure how your drop is configured, experiment with the cable that goes to your server, eg. try different ports, aim for green.  Once you have done this with success for all PC's it is very likely that you have no hardware problems, especially seeing it was working before.  D-Link hardware such as switches is very compatible.

The next step is to see if you can get tho computers to communicate and configure like I mentioned above.  Don't go running out to buy new hardware just yet, it shouldn't be neccessary.  Unless you don't have the appropriate cable for each computer.

Thanks for the appreciation and Good Luck,
Ollie
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by:Ollien
ID: 11827912
One last thing I just noticed, the switch you have has auto-sensing ports.  That means if you use a crossover or uplink where you shouldn't it will still work, just not at gigabit speed.  I think that is what your bottom orange light was about.
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by:riparius
ID: 11830003
Just a clarification....

I am assuming the server connects to some of the other PCs  "throughout the plant"  when I assume there is a switch there in the wiring closet, not just yours  (heck...otherwise just move it to your office!  problem solved!)

Since you have an orange light ( = 100mb/sec) on the local pc and no light (no link or 10mb? check manual)  on the (non functional) uplink .  You may not have communication with the remote closet switch.  It should not matter what port or cable you use since the switch is supposed to be smart enough to figure it out  EXCEPT if the cable is "bad" in which case the auto negotiation can simply not work.   Flashing green means the switch tried to send traffic...not that it got there.

"Bad" for a gigabit cable is not the same as "bad" for a 10/100 cable since it has to run 10 times as fast and use all 8 wires instead of 4.   Your wiring appears to function ok at 100mb.  So I am guessing it will work at 100mb on a  10/100 switch.    We are dealing with radio frequency and above on an ethernet cable, so it is possible to have very weird wiring issues like reflections and standing waves ( thats why the tester is $5000) .  I have seen perfectly connected wiring not work for no apparent reason (a little resistance or a crimp causing a radio standing wave) or work sporadically even after passing a test  (run too near a flourescent light) etc. But we have evidence that yours works at 100mb, so it seems logical to build on that.

One final thought ....after connecting to the new hub you have been rebooting the pc or using the XP "repair connection"
 function  ?  You need to get the server to give you an IP address this way (there are other ways but rebooting is the easiest).
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