Signal degradation?

Hi - I've got Comcast for my broadband provider.
The cable run comes into a splitter: one side goes to my only cable-active tv, the other to my modem.
I'm 'moving' in the next few weeks down the hall.
So, I plan on putting in a longer coax run another 30ft or so to the back bedroom.  

I'll probably either bring up the one coax and split it out of the jack, or install two jacks (with the 2nd splitter underneath the house).

I'll have the modem and router (linksys wireless) in the bedroom and will have the ethernet for my pc simply connect there, but I'm thinking of having the other node (my wife's pc left behind in the original room) connect through a cat5 jack which would connect back to the study to another cat5 jack.

So, a few Qs....

1) any problem with extending the coax cable and splitting it again?  I don't want to see any drop in speed if possible.
2) Any problem with the ethernet plan?
3) Would I be better off leaving the modem/router in the study and running an ethernet the same way back to the bedroom?

In the study, there will only be my wife's pc.
In the bedroom (aka my new office) I will have my wired PC and an occasional wired/wireless laptop - connecting over the network for an occasional print job to my wife's locally attached printer.

Thanx for looking. :^)
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sirbountyAsked:
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gpriceeeCommented:
1) No problem.
2) Well, without knowing the reason or layout, I'd just run the Ethernet from the current location.
3) I think the study is where the router is connected now.  So, yes, just run the CAT5 from there.  The best way to do it would be to run solid cable and punch it down into jacks.  You can buy all of it at your local Home Depot.  Solid cable is for stationary runs.  Patch cords--stranded cable--are for plugging in.  Terminate the jack in the new location proximal to the intended PC location.  If you get the right faceplates, it will look nice--not noticeable.
gpriceeeCommented:
Oh . . . you might live in a mansion, the spec for Ethernet length is 328 feet :-)
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
haha :P - nope no mansion here - ~2100 sq ft.
The 'main' pull for moving the modem/router was because I would have more physical control over them in my office instead of the study where they are now.  I know the limitation of ethernet, so if I still wanted to move the networking equipment, I should be okay with the above setup?
Yes, I have the nice faceplates...looks good...so far in the study... :)
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rikke_vpCommented:
Hi there,

since I worked for a ISP that uses cable modems I really suggest you to use ethernet. Coax connections are some and most times a real pain in the arse when you move them and replace or enhance cable's connected to it. This is because the NUI (the splitter) boosts the signal to the modem but it needs to be in a close range, what you can do if you really want to move your modem is asking your ISP how far the modem may be from te NUI, at the ISP I worked it was like 15 feet to have maximum capacity. If it is to far you get drops when watching TV and such weird things...

I would leave the modem as is and use your routers switch capability to enhance your network with a cat5 cable. Less trouble I can asure you.

Regards,
Rikke
snerkelCommented:
Why not leave the modem where it is, run an Ethernet from this to your office. Connect to the WAN port of the router, then run another Ethernet back to your wifes PC. You can then monitor the router LEDs

You can use a single Ethernet cable with double sockets each end by connecting:-

Socket 1  = Pin 1 Green/White        Pin 2 Green      Pin 3 Orange/White      Pin 6 Orange

Socket 2  = Pin 1 Blue/White        Pin 2 Blue      Pin 3 Brown/White      Pin 6 Brown


One socket would be for modem to router other socket for router to wife's PC
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
snerkel - I'm not sure I follow that last bit.
I've got two rj45 ports in my office (or will have) and two in the study.
You're saying I can run one cat5 cable between them?
Interesting...hmm....
snerkelCommented:
Yes 10Mbps and 100Mbps only use two pairs out of the four, I do this style wiring to a number of rooms around my house.
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
Sorry to be daft - but do you mean run 2 pair to one jack and 2 to the other on both sides?
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
Well, I'll have the two rj45 jax at both ends but... I have to have a rj11 port at the end where the router is because of my DPA (VoIP device).

The other concern I had/have is that if I want to use the wired cnx for the laptop, I wouldn't have a router in my office to do so.  I 'could' use the wireless, but now the router is down the hall, I wonder how the signal quality would be?

One method I am considering if I'm to leave the router/modem/dpa behind is to set up my main system with a dual-nic soley for the purpose of routing the laptop - never done this before, but I think I can work through it...

Decisions, decisions I suppose.  I'm still leaning more towards moving the equipment I think - and here's why.  The coax that 'was' connecting from the splitter (directly under the study) was about a 20ft cable.  I've replaced it with two six ft cables (joined, which I will replace soon enough).  So, I would probably need maybe a 40-50ft coax to carry it back to the office.  

So, as I see it, I have about two choices:

1) Move the splitter even closer to the box in the study so that I could get by with a 6 foot coax to the modem and maybe 10ft to the TV.  Then run cat5 from the router to the office - route periodic laptop traffic on my system (I wouldn't 'have' to set up ICS would I?  maybe a seperate question).

Or

2) move the equipment to my office - maybe still move the splitter down about 10 ft or so, so that it's closer to the office.  Then run the ethernet from the office to the study (where there will only be the one pc).

I feel I've gotten some good info thus far, so I've maxed the points out here - thanx for the input so far... :^)
snerkelCommented:
At both ends of the CAT5 two pair to one RJ45, two pair to other RJ45 make sure left RJ45 is connected to same pairs at both ends, same with right RJ45

The modems stays where it is with Ethernet from it plugged into left RJ45 using a patch lead

At your new office end the router WAN port plugs into the left RJ45 using a patch lead

At your office end a router LAN port plugs into the right RJ45 using a patch lead

Your wife's PC plugs into the right RJ45 using a patch lead

Your DAP would plug into the router ?!? I assume

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sirbountyAuthor Commented:
DPA can be in front of or behind the router - I currently have it behind, yes.

Thanx for the explanation.  I think I'm all set, but will leave this open for a bit longer (I'll get the cat5 on Monday).
I owe you some points from that last Q anyway snerkel... :^)
gpriceeeCommented:
Hello again.  The cost of cable is very cheap.  The latest machines are coming out with GIG NICs, so you don't want to split the cable for one run.  My whole house runs at a GIG--yes, copper and fiber.

Whatever your decision, you seem to be equally ready to move CAT5 and COAX.  What's most important is the termination of the cable.  Ensure your COAX is cut and terminated properly.

Much more crucial than the COAX is the CAT5.  Many people make the mistake of straightening out the wires nice and long before terminating them.  To remain in spec, the CAT5 wires should not be untwisted--straight--for more than 1/2 an inch.  If the wires are straight for greater than 1/2", crosstalk can occur--no big deal for 10mbs, but for 100 and 1000, you'll have issues.  Also, don't have any bends tighter than a 1" radius; the bends won't hurt as much as untwisted wire, but they can degrade performance.

The choice for the jacket is plenum; designed for airways as non-toxic in a fire.

As for the laptop, the latest wireless routers provide the best signal, but that doesn't mean if you have an older one it won't work down the hall.  What's very important here is that you employ WEP, create a MAC address reservation, limit your DHCP scope to one, and limit the network range with the proper subnet mask.

255.255.255.248 will provide for 6 machines.  192.168.1.1-192.168.1.6 would be the host addresses.

If you can limit your wireless address to a different subnet, you can go with 255.255.255.254.
192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.3 would be host addresses; total of two.
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
More good info - thanx. I'm not gpriceee what you mean about terminating coax?  I 'think' I do, but want to be sure.

As an update to the situation - my phone adapter died.  What this means is they are sending me a replacement model - a newer Linksys 3-port router. :^)

So, I can easily leave the phone/router/modem in the study now and take my wireless router to the office with me.


gpriceeeCommented:
hi.
If you're making your own COAX cables, improper termination can really kill the signal.
Ensure the cuts are at the right depth and that the connectores are attached properly.
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
No, I wouldn't be making my own - I'll probably buy a new one if I don't have one lying around...
Thanx.
sirbountyAuthor Commented:
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