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shawngilbert

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emachine t2895

I have a friend with this particular machine.  It would not boot up or turn on at all.  By the smell and symptoms, I presumed the power supply was gone.  I then installed a known working power supply, but still nothing operates.  Not even the power supply fan.

So, I am wondering if there is an easy way to determine what else could be wrong.  I looked at the cpu, but it did not shown any signs of damage.  Is it simply the system board?

And how easy would it be to replace just the system board and/or processor in this system?  I had heard that it was difficult to do with emachines, but I am not certain.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.
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willcomp
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First, disconnect all drives (both power and signal cables) and remove all add-in cards.  Assume video is on mobo, if not leave video card connected.  Remove and reseat RAM.  Then try to boot with minimal configuration using known good PSU.

If it still won't boot, swap out any parts you can, particularly memory.

If need be, will look up your particular PC and see what can be done.  Most e-Machines will accept a standard uATX motherboard.  But need to pinpoint problem before buying parts.
Also inspect capacitors (small metal cans) on motherboard for signs of damage such as bulging, leakage, or even blown into pieces.
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techsupport101

Does the computer make any beeping noises when you try to turn it on? These noises will correspond to certain problems (should be in manual). The computer may have its CPU friend or a fried ram module. Try swapping the CPU and Ram modules for others. If no avail, consider contacting emachines if the computer is still under warranty. They are usually cooperative and send you the parts you need.

-Good Luck! Hope this helped!
-techsupport_[101]
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Here are the replacement parts for this particular computer http://parts.emachines.com/emachines/sys_lookup.asp
Looks like an MSI-6714 motherboard.
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The only spare part I had was the power supply, which is what I suspected it was.  I confirmed the power supply was bad by plugging it into a working system.
There did not seem to be any burst or damaged capacitors on the board and the CPU core appears intact as well.
I will perform some more testing as I am able.  I thank you for the help and especially for the link.
If the fan has not power then the motherboard is bad (presuming that the power supply is good).

The bad PS was most likely giving the wrong voltage to the motherboard and damaged it.

If you have no lights, noise, fans, etc., then it is either the power supply or motherboard.
Yes, I retested the power supply here and it powers up this HP device.

So, you are saying that it is undoubtedly the motherboard and there is no need to pursue further testing with  the CPU or RAM?
Did you disconnect drives and remove cards as suggested?  If so, then odds are that it's motherboard.
Yes, I had everything disconnected at the time.
I did not even receive activity on the power supply fan.
Looking at the cost for a replacement system board, I wonder if it would be worth it to upgrade the system?  I found the mother board for around $30, which is a lot cheaper than we anticipated.
Given that, it would probably be best to upgrade the cpu as well.  
I have rarely worked on emachines.  I am more often working on HP or Dell, and I am primarily self-taught.
Would anyone mind giving me some upgrade suggestions for this model system?  The family is on a tight budget, but they were expecting about $200 to repair the system, so it seems that we may have a bit of breathing room.

Thank you.
It would be prudent to also test the ram and CPU in another system that is compatible with them, just to make sure. Then you would know for sure if its the motherboard.
Just replace what parts need replacing.  RAM is DDR266 and would need to be upgraded for a faster CPU.  Already have a 2.8GHz Celeron which isn't that bad and 512MB RAM.

Test any parts you can before making a decision.  Test hard disk, optical drives, and RAM in another PC as a minimum.  I am concerned that it may have experienced a significant surge and more than motherboard is damaged.  If such is the case, best to replace PC rather than trying to repair.
I agree with willcomp.  It would be prudent to test the other parts before replacing the motherboard.

Be advised, that most OEM computer manufacturers have proprietary components.  Chances are that the motherboard will need to be replaced with an eMachine replacement.
I checked what was available on website and appears to be a "standard" eMachines case.  Have been able to mount a standard uATX motherboard in similar eMachines cases.  Can check with a uATX board to be sure.
The mounting should be alright, but what I have encountered in the past is the wiring harness from the power supply.

Perhaps they have evolved into a more universal connection over the past few years, but I would take a good hard look at the wiring to the current motherboard, and compare it to the fittings on a universal motherboard (i.e. Abit, Asus, etc.)  That's where I've always had the trouble when trying to upgrade a name-brand computer.

If you have a Power supply that will work with the motherboard then you should be fine.

I hope this has helped!

Howard
Tune Up My PC
ATX connector wiring should be standard.  Only problem may be front panel connectors.
It's been a while since I've attempted to upgrade a name brand computer like this.  You are correct in that it is the front panel connectors.  I just wouldn't want to recommend a new motherboard and have you get stuck with one that would mount but not work with the wiring...  :)

Best wishes,
Howard
If I remember, it only had hdd led, power led and power sw.
It does have front panel usb, but presumably this would not be a problem?

This looks like the same board, http://3btech.net/msi67i8ch40m2.html
It is the same model that I found on their web site.  Other replaceable parts, like the power supply from their web site, include a part number that you can use to place an order.

I found both the $29 system board above and a $16 power supply from pricewatch.com

Should I be concerned that either of these will not work?
I have replaced the switch on emachines.  The power supplies are common replacements as well.  
So, you are saying the $16 power supply should work?
What about the system board?
If I replace these two and find that I still need a CPU, I can cross that bridge when I get to it, but I am primarily concerned why emachines charges $50 for a power supply that I can get for $16.

Does anyone have enough familiarity with the MSI board to know if the front panel connectors would match?
It sounds like you are wondering if the $16 p/s is something less than the $50 supply.  I have paid around $30 for that p/s.  eMachines is like everyone else >> they get top dollar for parts.  I don't know what p/s you are looking at but eMachine p/s are often faulty, very often.  Is the 16er new?  what brand.?

I don't find a compelling reason to rework an eMachine case.  If you have to replace a mobo and p/s and are ready to buy a cpu, you have to wonder what you are starting with >> an eMachine case.  

front panel wiring and mobo connectors are often close matches, not always perfectly aligned.  But they are also usually component-ized enough that they can be made to work.  Again, what for ?  the case logo?   hmmm...

you are finding that there are inexpensive parts around.  But seriously, what is the outcome?  If you are working on a friend's machine -- ask him or her >> how much is a computer worth to you?  (they are dirt cheap right now Christmas)  If they have a monitor, they would be well advised to put the money into a new box, the eMachine has turned up its mobo and p/s dead!  move on. ( and bypass emachine this time)  they will be glad they did.  Even $200 makes little sense when Walmart has an HP model with monitor for $400.  Boxes are available for $250+   and these are likely a much newer version of what your friend's are using now.  2.8celeron is no big deal.  The system is dead. bury it.  
I understand what you are saying lunarbeach and I would completely follow your advice, were it my system and my situation.
But this family is quite large (they just had their sixth child!) and I am afraid funds are tight.  They were worried when I estimated it would cost around $200 to repair or closer to $350 to replace.  If it can become operational again for $50, then they would be estatic.  It is primarily used for the older kids homework anyway so I am not certain it would make sense for them to exceed what was absolutely necessary to get it up and running again.

For the power supply, I just went to pricewatch and found the cheapest 250-watt.  Today, I searched by brand name (emachine) and found this one - http://3btech.net/mi350wachpos.html (which is a 350) - still for only $17.

So that and the board above would be under $50 to repair it, if the cpu is not dead.  So, in light of that and their financial situation, should I proceed?  

Personally, I do not care for emachines.  I know they are cheap and cheaply made, but for families on a tight budget (as long as they are not using AOL!), it makes sense, would you agree?
where are you located?
What do you mean?  Physically?  
Normally in NC, but I travel a lot.
Be careful about eMachines power supplies.  Many PSUs designanated as eMachines are SFX form factor power supplies.  If yours is a standard ATX (which it almost certainly is) then you do not want an "eMachines" PSU.

The power supply is critical and 250 watts is underpowered.  This one is inexpensive and very good if you don't mind the blue LED fan.  Apparently being discontinued and on sale.

http://www.directron.com/tt35012.html


did you chk the switch?

pull the wires/ header from the mobo that go to the front panel.  Reduce all other possibilities by removing all unnecessary peripherals -- just memory, and video.  No switch unless there is a switch on the p/s.  if there is no switch on the p/s, then locate the two pins for power on the mobo pin block where you pulled the front panel wires.  use forceps or _________ to jump the two power pins.  Spark?  I mean, it may start up if the switch is shorted out.  removing wires will remove the short and you may get electric buzz.  
I believe it is an ATX, but it was working with a 250.  Why would you say it is underpowered?
I do not mind the LED fan, but the fan appears to be positioned where the top of the case would be, thus blocking proper airflow?

Did I check the switch?  I did attempt to short it out to determine if it was simply the switch; but I did not see any noticiable difference.  Thank you for your help.
Fan should be on bottom when power supply is mounted in case.  I just got in an eMachines with similar, if not identical case.  The power supply recommended will fit without any problems.  However, if you want to be safe, get a PSU with fan on end such as this one:

http://www.directron.com/hec300trtf.html

Most manufacturers use the smallest (lowest wattage) power supply possible to save cost.  They are in a highly competitive environment.  It is better to have additional power available especially if you add memory or drives.  The PSU is a critical component and not the place to cut corners.
you said above,

>I confirmed the power supply was bad by plugging it into a working system.

>Yes, I retested the power supply here and it powers up this HP device.

So you seem convinced that the power supply is the problem.  You also said

>The only spare part I had was the power supply, which is what I suspected it was

So, I am not clear that you have tested a replacement power supply in the eMachine and confirmed  the source of the problem.  (?)

My apologies.  I have tested the power supply from the eMachine in a Dell that I have here and did not work.  I then took the Dell power supply which has the same connectors and tried it in the eMachine and it still did not work.
So I am now fairily convinced that the problem is indeed the power supply, but in addition to more than likely the system board.  I just have not decided if I am going to get the $29 system board replacement above or if I will have any problems with it?
Mobo looks OK.
Take a look at the 20 pin power plug, do all 20 of the pins have a wire connected to them or is one or two missing. A standard ATX  plug would have all pins connected, a propriatory one may have one not connected or a different wire "color" combination. If both of those power supplies look identical at the 20 pin plug, more than likely they are compatible.
Therefore if the DEll PSU did work in in the dell but didn't work in the emachine then the MB looks faulty.
Great, thank you all again.
I am waiting on a points refund and once that goes through I will increase the points here as you have all been extremely helpful.
I increased the points here to 400.
I have ordered the power supply (the blue one).
I have yet to order the system board because I am a little bit concerned.  
When I searched for MSI 6714 on pricewatch, I came back with a few different options.
Looking at two of them, one is listed as
  MSI-6714 1845 GL Chipset 400 FSB with Video/Audio/LAN
the other was listed as
 MSI-6714 1845 PE Chipset 400/533 FSB with Audio/LAN

I am not certain if they currently have onboard video.  I suppose I need to double-check this.
But what is the difference in GL & PE?

Also both state at the bottom:
OEM Board does not include backplate or manual.  What do they mean by backplate?

http://3btech.net/msi67i8ch40m.html
http://3btech.net/msi67i8ch40m2.html
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willcomp
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Take vendor's description at face value and go with 845GL chipset board.

Per description, 845PE chipset board has an AGP slot and no on-board graphics.  May have been a custom made board for someone like HP or Gateway.
Well, after more than two weeks with no board, I called them today.  They tell me that UPS returned the item as damaged in shipment and now they are out of stock of the GL version.
I would love it if anyone could offer an alternate online purchase site, as I cannot seem to find any others that offer this same part.
Have you gone back to the vendors page here http://3btech.net/msi67i8ch40m1.html 
this one has the 400/533 fsb which would allow the CPU  and ram you have to be used and has integrated video.
Would the GV version work as well, instead of the GL version?
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Well, here is the latest.
I installed everything last night.  Plugged it all back in and powered it up.  We saw the windows logon screen and thought it was fixed.
However, after logging on, Windows claimed it had to be activated before the system could be used.
So, I went through the process of activating over the phone.  I had done this before with no problems.  This time however, I could not get anywhere with the support person.  After being transferred three times, the last person asked if it was an emachine.  He said I needed to call emachine.  After calling them, they promptly told me that it was no longer an emachine since the motherboard had been replaced and that I would have to buy a new copy of Windows XP.
So, I will no longer recommend emachine to anyone.  I thought this proprietary nonsense died out with IBM's attempts, but apparently not....
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My experience has been that MS is fairly accomodating with activations.  Try activating over the internet prior to calling MS.  In many cases internet activation will work.  If not call again, be polite, and explain that you had to replace a failed motherboard.
These are the valid reasons for issuing a new activation key per MS:

lose product key
key does not work
no key with product
support generated key
cannot read key
supervisor's approval

The changes made to the machine make it a new machine under the XP license and OEM agreements.  You will have to buy a new copy or run Linux.
He isn't looking for a NEW activation key, he's trying to use the OEM one the already has.  Apparently emachine puts a SLP code in the bios to check the hardware that caused re-activation when the motherboard was replaced, but not with an OEM board. the XP installation was directly linked to that bios.
Proprietory bulls**t strikes again.

 
One other aspect to consider here, there is no replacement board available from emachine for this computer according to the specification page. http://parts.emachines.com/emachines/sys_lookup.asp
There are also no bios updates for any emachine on their site, very convenient .
If all else fails w/ Microsoft and emachines you can find xp home for $83 here:  http://www.computersworth.com/item.cfm?id=51

XP Pro for $132:  http://www.computersworth.com/item.cfm?id=50

Sorry to hear that you are having so many problems w/ eMachine.  I kind of guessed when I originally posted that the motherboard was going to be a major headache.
I finally got the machine from them.  I tried using the activation over the internet and it popped up my product ID stating that it was invalid allowing me to enter a new one.
I have not called Microsoft back yet, but I was going to try to get it beyond this point by using another product ID, though I am not certain this will work.
At my work we receive HP desktops that come preloaded by the vendor with XP Home edition, but we wipe them clean and drop a ghost image of XP Pro on there.  So these keys are basicaly not being used.  I wonder if I can use one of these or if they are somehow machine-brand specific.  Does anyone know for certain?
I would still call MS first and explain there are no replacement parts available for the computer and see what happens. As far as the other code, it also may depend on the HP, SLP code in the  bios for its confirmation. If it does you ll probably get the same result  as the original product key .  No Activation.
Shouldn't the bios be different now with an entire replacement system board?
Yes but the HP product key may be attached to the bios of the HP motherboard.
I tried calling them again.  "Matthew" informed me that my installation id was showing as invalid, that I must reboot and retry it and call back if I am still having difficulty.  With that, and before I could explain this was my now fifth call, he promptly hung up.  SOB.  I am very frustrated here now.  I hate Microsoft.
I assume you are using product key affixed to back of PC rather than a "borrowed" one.  If that's the case, don't understand why you are having such difficulties.

If you are using product key that came with PC, the next time you call MS add a 0 to the end of phone number for manual activation.  That should bypass the automated answering system and take you directly to live support.

Remember that attitude may make all the difference.
Someone will have to pony up $ for XP (read the licensing link above) or install 98se which has less restrictive licensing.  The only possiblity that this strategy could have worked is if the mobo was bought from eMachines.  Now the costs are an issue for a client who does't want to spend $100+ for hardware, software, and svcs.  Someone will have to eat it or compromise on the OS version.  You can only do so much for free and next to nothing.    

Thank the uber-intelligencia who wanted to sue Microsoft.  Now we all pay for every license on every machine, no exceptions, software enforced.  Lawyers get paid one way or another.  If you want to hate someone, look to the lawyers and the unable who could see no innovation in their future code-mediocre failures and turned to the legal system for their payoff.  Only in America can idiots be treated as equals.  Bill Gates still reigns as code-excellence.  Neither IBM nor Linux come close.

BTW, for those who find $100 too expensive for an OS, try to write one.  Then market it, make a profit and don't forget, you will have to support it if you sell even one.  Good luck coming in under $1000.  Hey there is always Linux, and its FREE!  That is the magic word.  All software should be FREE!  Jump on the FREE bandwagon and take a ride.  Oh, don't forget, you will have to support it.  
Yes, willcomp, I am using the one on the back of the PC.

By adding a 0, do you mean replacing the last digit?
I feel that I have been more than cordial with these folks from Microsoft (eMachines was a different story perhaps, but the lady I spoke to had no sympathy, did not even let me finish explaining before sternly telling me that it was no longer an eMachine since I did the work myself).  I even chewed the fat with one guy from New Delhi, but I still did not get any further.

I have a couple of XP Home keys I am going to try today.  They were not purchased by 'us', but they will not be used elsewhere.  I will post back with the results later.
add 0 to end of telephone number listed to call, an additional digit.  Bypasses automated answering system.