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1782 Disk Controller Failure Message On Bootup!! What is the problem?

Hey everybody i have a compaq presario 7360 and when i try to boot it up it saisy 1782 disk controller failure. it then goes on to say a bunch of crazy stuff when i push f1 to boot anyway. couldn't open drive multi (0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition or something like that is what it says.  What is causing this?  And can it be fixed?  Does it sound like a bad mother board?
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danielwebb
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danielwebb
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1 Solution
 
MarkCommented:
This a known problem on some compaq computers. Here is a link to the HP/Compaq site that discusses this issue, not particularly with your model but it may help.
http://www1.itrc.hp.com/service/james/search.do?todo=search&searchtext=1782&from=forums&origin=0&submit.x=12&wpa=forums1.itrc.hp.com%3A80&submit.y=6&searchcategory=ALL&hpl=1&searchcriteria=allwords&rn=25&source=7000&chkServStor=on&presort=rank&esc=us.support.itrc.hp.com&admit=-682735245+1144975820182+28353475
The first thing to try would be the hard drive jumper setting.
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PCBONEZCommented:
On a Compaq 1782 - Disk Controller Failure  is a Hard Drive Circuitry Error.
http://www.uktsupport.co.uk/compaq/faq/comppost.htm

It means there is an electronics failure in the hard drives interface circuit.

It could be in the circuit board on the hard drive
or
it could be in the hard drive circuit on the motherboard.

It is most likely to be the hard drive. This is most common.

To isolate the problem either try the hard drive in another system or try a different hard drive in that system.

PCBONEZ
.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
ok so i want to change the jumpers.  I can't take the hd out without taking the battery supply off so i want to change the jumper settings with the hard drive still in the computer.  how do i figure out what kind of hard drive is in there so i can search for the proper jumper settings?
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BillDLCommented:
Daniel, if you aren't aware of what the proper jumper settings are, then it would seem that you have never accessed the computer to alter them from the factory setting, so there would really have been no other way that the settings could have changed.  That being the case, then PCBONEZ comment seems to be the most likely problem.

Unless, of course, you have pieced this computer together with parts sourced from different places.

Are you sure that "Presario 7360" is the correct model number?

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=94462&dlc=en&docname=c00004461

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&cc=us&lang=en&dlc=en&product=94462&docname=bpb50174

From what you say about having to remove the "battery supply", this infers that it is a Laptop.  When I enter that search criterion at Compaq Support (http://www.hp.com/country/us/en/support.html) it tells me that it is a Desktop PC.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?product=94462&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&submit.y=9&submit.x=4&lang=en&cc=us

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?product=94462&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&submit.y=8&submit.x=8&lang=en&cc=us

If you are definitely talking about a laptop computer, then there is an Armada 7360 and a Pavilion 7360.

You have asked this question in the "Desktops" topic area, so it's fair to assume that it isn't a notebook, but what are you referring to when you say "battery supply"?

Another thing, make sure the computer is completely powered off before connecting, changing, or disconnecting anything - including drive jumpers.

Most Compaq's I've worked with use the drive jumpers in the Cable Select (CSL) setting.
This then means that the drive's Master/Slave status is determined by which ribbon cable connector is plugged into which drive.  The end one normally designates the drive as the master, while the middle one designates it as the Slave:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=94462&dlc=en&docname=bph03429

ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/personal_computing/software/video/bph07873.wmv (18.8MB) ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/personal_computing/software/video/bph07902.wmv (4.44 MB)

Assuming yours IS the Desktop Presario 7360, then it came with a 10 GB hard drive.  These are often Seagate ones, but they can chop-and-change brands.  In fact, Compaq do some weird things.  I've seen 10 GB hard drives in Compaq systems with Seagate model numbers that tell me that they SHOULD be 20 GB models, but they aren't.

The computer came preinstalled with Win98se, but you now have Windows XP.
Have you just newly installed Windows XP, or has it been installed for a while?
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
i meant power supply
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PCBONEZCommented:
danielwebb:
I'm not quite sure what you're trying to do in moving jumpers.

A precaution: Any time you work inside the computer unplug it or turn it off by the switch *ON* the power supply if it has one there. Modern computers still power things inside even when they are 'off' so if it's plugged in then there IS power in there.

To know how to change jumpers on the drive you need to know the drive's make/model.
If you can't read the label where it is then you need to take it out and read it.
- If you're lucky some drives actually have the jumper settings printed right on them.
- If not, once you know those numbers go to the manufacturer's site and look the drive up.
- Or put the numbers here, some of those sites are hard to figure out if you've never dealt with them before.

On most hard drives it's impossible or nearly impossible to change jumpers without removing the drive from the system.

As BillDL said, there is no reason to change jumpers if you are leaving it in the same system so I'm not sure what you are doing.
If you are putting it in another system the time to change jumpers is when you have the drive out in between systems.

Are you confusing the terms 'jumper' and 'cable'?
A jumper is a tiny thing that connects two pins together. There is no wire.
.
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MarkCommented:
I checked the manual and the power supply is definatly in an odd spot, and definately in the way of the hard drive removal. I think a bit more info would help here. -->Have you had this computer long and was it running properly before this error message came up.
-->Have you installed any new software or new hardware previous to this error.
-->have you had the cover off this computer lately and maybe moved or touched a component inside.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
i just bought it from a lady.  She had a dvd burner installed on it but didn't specify by whom although there was a best buy sticker on there.  she didn't say whether or not the computer was broken after the drive was installed.
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MarkCommented:
There s a possibility that the installation of the DVD drive may have something to do with this.
If the drive was put on the same data cable as the hard drive and the jumper was changed in the process, then this would possibly lead to this error. Here is the manual for this computer. http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/bpb11903.pdf
Chapter 11 has the removal directions for the power supply.
Once you find out what hard drive is in there, change the jumper to cable select.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
the hard drive is a quantum fireball 13.6at
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MarkCommented:
You will need one more bit of info. There are 15 models of Fireball hard drives on the Maxtor support page found here under the-->Select  Quantum Product<-- header
http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.57739892ade91820a727116291346068/?channelpath=/en_us/Support/Product%20Support
You will have to look at the hard drive label and find the rest of the name. An example would be -->Quantum Fireball CR<--
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BillDLCommented:
Thanks for that clarification about the "battery supply" and "power supply" typo there Daniel.  It makes sense now :-)

I agree.  The fact that you bought it with a an additional DVD-Burner fitted to it, but had no knowledge at the time whether the computer was functional, tends to point to the fact that someone messed up and she shifted it quickly to an unwitting victim.  An auction purchase on eBay perhaps?

>>> "Are you confusing the terms 'jumper' and 'cable'?". <<<

I think the very first thing you should look at is how the ribbon cable connectors are plugged into the back of the hard drive and check if the DVD-Writer (or other drive) is connected to the same IDE channel (same ribbon cable).

The connector may or may not have a sticky-out bit on it that is designed to line up with a notch in the socket of the hard drive.  This is deliberate, because hard drives have one missing pin in that socket.  The connectors with the stick-out lug usually have the part that is supposed to line up with the missing pin blanked off, ie. no hole.

The problem is that some cables have connectors with no lug, but with one hole blanked off.  The only way to know whether you are fitting the connector into the hard drive upside down is to visually line up the orientation.  If you don't do this, and just take a guess and push the connecor into the hard drive's socket, then the blanked-off hole can line up with a pin instead of with the place where the pin on the hard drive's socket is missing.  The results are usually disastrous because it will either shove the pin backwards and break the internal soldered connection, or bend the pin over.  IF that has happened, then a repair (if possible) is costly to the point where it makes more monetary sense to buy a new hard drive.  That scenario is highly likely to show the error mssage you have received.

IF, after verifying that this IS NOT the case with your connections, then there are a couple of possibilities:

1. The drives are wrongly configured in the CMOS setup
AND/OR
2. The drives are wrongly jumpered or, if they are correctly jumpered, the wrong cable connector is attached to master/slave. Remember what I said above about Cable select (CSL) jumpering taking its master/slave configuration by correct placement of the ribbon cable connector.

As an example of jumpering options (bearing in mind what has been stated above about having to know the exact model number), have a look at the images on this document which relates to the Fireball LCT 15GB drive:

http://www.maxtor.com/_files/maxtor/en_us/documentation/quantum_jumper_settings/fireball_lct15_ata_jumpers.pdf

You'll see that there is a strange pin configuration named DS, and their "Cable Select" is referred to as "CS".
"Cable Select" is the default setting, and there are settings that tell it specifically whether it is the ONLY drive on that ribbon cable (standalone), if it is to be configured as the Master BUT WITH a Slave drive connected to the same ribbon cable, and if there is a master on the same cable but the hard drive should be treated as the slave.

It can be confusing looking into a computer case or at a sticker on the hard drive showing the jumper pins, and trying to orientat yourself when the hard drive is maybe upside down, but the Quantum diagrams generally show the layout of the hard drive's connectors along with the power-in socket so you can figure it out.  See diagram on page 2 of the above .pdf document for an example.  You'll also see how they refer to what I was describing above about the missing pin - "cable key" and "blank key".

Remember, that's only an example.  You have to know the model number of your hard drive to use the linked page given by sparkmaker.

From past experience, Quantum drives are usually shown by their model number in the CMOS Setup Screen.
Do you know how to boot your system into the CMOS Setup and navigate, and more importantly how to escape from it without making any changes?
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
its a fireball cx and the jumper settings appear to be right
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MarkCommented:
Where is the dvd connected, on the same cable or another separate cable. If its on the same cable ensure that its also jumpered for CS (cable select) and the hard drive is connected at the end of this cable. The DVD should be in the middle of the cable.
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PCBONEZCommented:
Back to the new drive installation.
If there is a seperate cable for each drive the installer may have selected the wrong connectors on the motherboard.
The two main board connectors are refered to as Primary and Secondary.

The hard drive should be set as 'Primary - Master'.
The Optical drive could be 'Primary - Slave'  or 'Secondary - Master'.
If both are installed as Masters they may have reversed to Primary and Secondary.
.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
the two cd drives have there own ribbon connected to the mother board
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PCBONEZCommented:
Okay,
The optical drives should either be configured via the jumpers such that:
One is the master and the other is the slave.
Or, Compaq's commonly used another method where both are connected as 'cable select' (CS or CSL marking).
CS automatically determines master/slave based on which ribbon cable connector it's plugged into.
~ Regardless, that ribbon cable should be attached to the motherboard's connector for the 'Secondary' drives.

What I was suggesting was the ribbon cable with the optical drives and the ribbon cable for the hard drive got switched by mistake on the motherboard.

That mistake would make the optical drives 'Primary-Master' and 'Primary-Slave' and the hard drive would be 'Secondary-Something' depending on if it's attached to the correct connector on it's own cable or not.
By default the bootable hard drive is the first drive (Master) on the Primary controller (a.k.a. Primary-Master) and some systems 'don't like to play' if it's connected anywhere else.

The two connectors on the motherboard should be labeled (though it's often hard to see) by markings next to them in the motherboard itself.
The naming convention varies by vintage and manufacturer.
It might be IDE-0 IDE-1, IDE-1 IDE-2, IDE-A IDE-B. .
Regardless, the Primary controller will always be the lowest number and that's the one the hard drive should be connected to.
.
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MarkCommented:
This link shows the connectors and cables we are talking about. http://www.helpwithpcs.com/upgrading/install-hard-drive.htm
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PCBONEZCommented:
I tripped over another possible problem.

It seems your factory power supply is only 145 watts.
A DVD drive is like 25-30 watts all by itself.

You may simply be overloading the part of the power supply that powers the drives so the drives aren't getting enough power to operate properly.
Try the system with only one of the optical drives installed.
If it runs that way then remove one of the optical drives or get a higher wattage power supply.
It appears to be a standard uATX (Micro-ATX) power supply and a 180-230 Watt shouldn't be hard to find.
(That's just plain lucky!! Compaq is known for using odd-ball power supplies.)
180 Watts would -probably- be enough for a K6-2 system with two CD/DVD drives but I'd go for 200 Watts or better.
You can calculate power supply watts needed here:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/

Connector locations on the motherboard:
If you look in sparkmakers previous link:
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/bpb11903.pdf
On manual pages 11-10 and 11-11 (page 93 and 94 in Acrobat Reader) the locations of the connectors are shown.
The primary controller is the one closest to the edge of the board.
.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
ok so it sounds like its probably the power supply. i need at least 200 watts for what i'm running now and all i have is 150.  Now for my next question....  If i buy a new power supply will any one fit into the cradle on the computer that holds the power supply?  or is there a specific model i need to get?
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
anybody?
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PCBONEZCommented:
As I said in the last post, for that one you need a standard Micro-ATX power supply.
200 to 230 Watt versions are pretty easy to find.
I've been looking for a 400-450 Watt. That ain't so easy!!!
I'll post some links here in a bit.
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MarkCommented:
I would do as PCBONEZ suggested-->"Try the system with only one of the optical drives installed." Or even unplug the power of both optical drives. The question needs to be answered on the power issue before you go head and get another. If it remains the same after removing the optical drives from  the PSU then we're more than likely looking at a hard drive or motherboard issue. If it does clear the error then a PSU with a higher wattage is called for, but its prudent to try only one thing at a time as confusion can reign when more than one aspect of the system is changed.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
i tested the hard drive in another system and that woriks fine.  and when i went to the site to assess the amount of wattage i need it said needed more than i have so i'm pretty sure thats the issue.
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PCBONEZCommented:
It's always good to overshoot what you calculated for watts by at least 20 or 30 watts.
Manufacurers tend to lie a little about their PSU's true output.
(In fact the detailed specs on your's say "Steady-state 120 watts").
Also running a power supply at less than it's max rating will usually make the PSU last a little longer and it's more stable.

The first one is a 320 watt. You don't need that much now but it would support a more powerful mainboard/CPU later on if you ever want to upgrade. (Even an entry level P4 if you stay away from high end video cards.) It's a cheaper brand but I actually have one on a 1.2 GHz micro-ATX system and it's given me no problems in 2 years. I've used that dealer too. Never had a problem.

http://3btech.net/apmi320wapos.html
http://www.pcwebshopper.com/psat250.html
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1951993&CatId=1076
http://cgi.ebay.com/230W-SFX-PSU-for-HP-Pavilion-Bestec-ATX-1523D-ATX-1523F_W0QQitemZ6869549183

You can search that Bestec numbers on eBay and find LOTS of those models available.

Most you will find today support P4. That basically means they have an extra 2x2 pin (square) connector that you don't need for that motherboard. Just zip-tie it out of the way. It may come in handy later on.
.
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PCBONEZCommented:
Yes yes yes yes -- -->"Try the system with only one of the optical drives installed." first.
I thought you had...
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PCBONEZCommented:
You want to make sure the rest of the system is okay before you invest in a new PSU for it...
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
to late i already ordered a power supply.  its a 230 watt which i figure should be enough.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
hopefully thats the problem.  that explanation makes the most sense.  its not the hard drive because i tested that in another computer.
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MarkCommented:
Could still be the controller on the motherboard.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
would i have to replace the motherboard if that were the case?
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PCBONEZCommented:
Yes, 230 watt should be enough for that system.
If the controller is gone there are two choices:
New motherboard (Best choice, Socket 7 boards are cheap now days anyway and if the controller went other things may soon follow. (I say 'may'.)
Add an add-in controller if you have a slot open. ( Not expensive these days either. You only really need a ATA/66 version for that system and those don't cost much.)
.
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MarkCommented:
Yes
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MarkCommented:
Sorry, not necessarily. You would need to put a pci card  based controller in there to take over from the onboard controller.
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PCBONEZCommented:
In fact,,,
It wouldn't cost much to upgrade yourself into the 1 GHZ CPU range if you watch it on the wattage.
K6-2 is ~ 18 Watts
1 GHz P3 is ~ 35 Watts.
PC66/100 is ~ 7 Watts/stick
PC133 is ~ 12 Watts/stick

You can easily do it for under $100 if you're selective with parts but if the system does what you need as-is I wouldn't do this unless it turns out you want/need a new motherboard.
.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
so do you guys think its not the power supply then?
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MarkCommented:
Lets go over what has been done or not done to find the problem.
1-You have examined the jumpers on the hard drive, and optical drives(cd/DVD) to ensure they are correct.--> Cable select.
2-The hard drive is on the correct plug on the cable -> master connector at the end of the cable.
3-The hard drive cable is plugged into the proper connector on the motherboard, primary for the hard drive and secondary for the optical drives as per PCBONEZ post
     http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/bpb11903.pdf
    On manual pages 11-10 and 11-11 (page 93 and 94 in Acrobat Reader) the locations of the connectors are shown.
    The primary controller is the one closest to the edge of the board.
4-you removed the cd/ dvd drive cable from the motherboard connector and the power plugs from the cd and dvd , and started it up to see if the error remains(checks PSU's ability to give enough power to the hard drive controller)

If you have done all of these and still receive the error, the PSU is not likely the cause. More likely the onboard Controller. If the last test gives no erro then I would suspct the PSU.
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PCBONEZCommented:
You need a larger PSU to run all those drives regardless of what the problem is.

Yes the PSU could be the only problem.
Yes the drive controller could be the problem.
Yes they could both be bad.

Earlier I tried to get you to run the system with only one hard drive and only one optical drive attached.
That was to see if the SIZE of the PSU was the only problem (assuming the PSU is good.)
If it did work we'd know if the PSU -SIZE- was the only problem.
If the system didn't work then we haven't isolated anything because it could still be the PSU or the controller.

As to what's most likely that's hard to say.
PSU's break more often than controllers but a bad controller isn't uncommon.

What I do know is that supposedly this system worked then someone overloaded the PSU by adding too many drives.

I think the PSU is the first thing to look at, not the controller.
.
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
well i bought a psu and a pci controller so we'll see
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danielwebbAuthor Commented:
well it turns out it was the psu
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