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DVI output to Samsung DLP not displaying in true 1280x720 resolution

Could there be anyone out there who has had difficulty getting their Nvidia 6800GT graphics board to properly display on a 1280x720 Samsung DLP TV using the DVI output > HDMI?

The VGA connector works, but does not fill up the screen, is slightly fuzzy, and has a ghosted scrolling bar.

The DVI connector works, but the 1280x720 resolution is too big for the display...I can't see the taskbar or the other edges of the screen.  Only by adjusting the NVIDIA driver's "overscan compensation" to "underscan" does the entire desktop get shown, but the resolution is now set to 1176x664.

Please...anyone...help!?

FYI, I haven't yet tried another graphics board...but I'll give it a go if I need to....
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russelmash
Asked:
russelmash
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2 Solutions
 
CallandorCommented:
Give PowerStrip a try - you can construct a custom resolution to match your TV exactly.
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Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
I second Callandor's suggestion -- PowerStrip is the premier tool for creating custom resolutions.   Get it at:  http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm

... but just for my clarification; what's wrong with using 1176 x 664?   The aspect ratio is correct for your TV, and if that's showing the full desktop it sounds like all is well.   Is there a clarity issue at that resolution?
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russelmashAuthor Commented:
There IS a clarity issue at that resolution.  Much the same as looking at a LCD monitor that is 1280x1024 native, but displaying 1024x768.  You can see the entire screen, but it is far from as clear when set to the native res.

Also, when displayed at 1176x664 the entire screen is not used.  It is very close to the borders on the right side and bottom, but there is 1/2" of black space at the top and the left edge.

When the TV is in use with a HD TV signal from our cable provider, the entire screen is used...and is crystal clear.

Hopefully I'm not stuck with this fuzzy picture...starting to give me a headache.

Thanks for the advice...I'll try the PowerStrip and post my results, but any other advice would still be appreciated.
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Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
... PowerStrip will let you adjust the resolution with more granularity ==> it's the favored tool for most folks (myself -- & I think Callandor -- included) when setting up home theatre PCs.   You should easily be able to fill the screen with it.
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CallandorCommented:
Yes, it is an indispensible tool for me, since I have a projector with a 1365x1024 resolution.  There is also an online guide for the uninitiated: http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/powerstrip.html
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russelmashAuthor Commented:
Powerspec didn't help...

It turns out that there is NO WAY to get a 1:1 pixel display on the Samsung HL-R6167W set.  Thinking about taking to the place I bought it and dropping on the sales guy who told me I could.

FFFFFF!!!!!

I hate it when this stuff should just work...but doesn't

FYI...if you're going to buy any new set to use as also as a PC monitor, have the quacks at your local store actually hook a PC up to the damn thing and prove to you that it will deliver a 1:1 mapping with a true resolution display...GRRRRRRRR

Sorry, no points as I'm still looking at a fuzzy screen.
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Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
One of the facts-of-life with home theatre displays is that you need to use some strange resolutions -- seems like 1176 x 664 is close to what your display requires here.   If you enable ClearType font smoothing, that should look pretty good -- and I suspect it looks even better when you're displaying video rather than characters.   Televisions -- even HDTV ones -- aren't really designed for text, and don't make particularly good computer monitors.   But they make GREAT home theatre displays; and with Powerstrip you can use a computer to generate those displays.
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russelmashAuthor Commented:
The system is marketed as a digital set with a native resolution of 1280x720 then it should be able to take a digital signal from my PC and display it at a 1:1 pixel ratio... but it doesn't.  

Guess you're right about theatre displays <> pc monitor, althought from what I've been reading it looks like this can be traced back to the HDMI chip in this model of TV not supporting the proper bandwidth of the PC signal...or something like that.  Something that is slated to be taken care of in this year's models...

Truth be told, the display is ... okay enough to work on as I do....I guess (I mean I'm stuck with it right...so I might as well convince myself that it's okay...)  

You guys are great...thanks for the help!

Now let's split some points and all be friends...eh?

Thanks again for you time.
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