What do I need to wire between my Wireless-G Router and an Access Point/Switch in another part of the house?

What do I need to wire between my Wireless-G Router and an Access Point/Switch in another part of the house? I am running the wire outside and want two wall-mounted plates on the inside of the two rooms involved.
Also are the prices I've listed normal?

RJ-45 Crimper ($16.99)
- Should I get the RJ-45 + RJ-12 instead, is it often used?
http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/197

200 ft of Cat5e Outdoor Bulk Cable (19.99 x 2 = $39.98)
-They have direct burial/FTP shielded for $4 more, what does the FTP shielding do, should I get this instead, it won't be buried, but will be in the sun a little bit.
http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/14224

1 or 2-jack Wall Mount (.99 x 2 = $1.98
- If I want to have the two jacks active do I have to run two cables or is there a way to split one cable that was run?
http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/158

10 Pieces Cat5e RJ45 Modular Plugs ($1.99)
- Are these the right plugs for the cable above?
http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/187

Do I really need an RJ-45 Tester?  Won't it just be obvious if it works or not?

Should I get these (10 Pack Strain Relief Boots $1.99) http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/193

I think I need Keystone Jacks but I don't know which or how many? http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/keystone_jacks_cat3_cat5e_cat6?b=1
davidgareauAsked:
Who is Participating?
 
Titanium_SniperCommented:
First of all for this size of a job, a tester is not really needed,
If the cable works it works
if it dosent, recrimp

If you will be doing this more a tester would be a good idea


The underground shielded cable is overkill
unless the cable will be run near any power lines
The shielding is just a metal mesh around the cable
and it stops electromagnetic interference
That comes from appliances and power lines and
flourescent light fixtures


For the crimper, RJ11 (not 12) is used for making the old phone cables
you will probably never use this feature so I would buy a RJ45 only crimper
unless the dual one is cheaper

The crimper is needed only for the wires between the computers and the wall jack
called patch cables

I bought my crimper on ebay for like $3 but the shipping was $9
It has worked great for about 10-15 wires so far.
Again if you will be doing this more than once a nice crimper is great
the inexpensie ones will break after lots of use and are not as good at crimping
correctly the first time

For the wall jacks just use two wires i dont think the wires are ment to carry
two signals although if you want to experiment, only half the wires are used,
#s 123, and 6 but I would recomend running 2 wires

Keystone jacks cost about $1 to $2 each
You can buy a 110 punchdown tool to put the wires into the jacks
but for only one job, a dinner knife or steak knife works fine
remember do not strip the wires before putting in the back of the jacks
Just press them in untill they are in the bottom of the grooves

The cat5e pluds are the correct ones, these attach to the
patch cables from the computer to the wall and plug into the keystone jacks

The strain relief boots go on the patch cable before the rj45 modular plugs
these will protect cables that are moved around from breaking
Personally I do not use them as i make my own cables from really
cheap wire and have never had one stop working
I also move them around daily.


I hope that help and the prices are fair
on ebay you might get better prices but its a small risk
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davidgareauAuthor Commented:
>>>The crimper is needed only for the wires between the computers and the wall jack
>>>called patch cables
So, I don't need the crimper to get the bulk Ethernet connected to the wall-jack? I already have a half dozen patch cables with ends that I was going to use from the wall-jack to the router and wall-jack to computer or switch/accesspoint on the other end, I just thought that I needed to crimp and add a plug to get the cabling hooked up to the wall jacks.
So, if not, then I don't need the plugs either?

>>> Keystone jacks cost about $1 to $2 each
>>> You can buy a 110 punchdown tool to put the wires into the jacks
>>> but for only one job, a dinner knife or steak knife works fine
>>> remember do not strip the wires before putting in the back of the jacks
>>> Just press them in untill they are in the bottom of the grooves

So, the keystone jacks are what connect the cable from the outside into the Wall Mount on the inside?




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Titanium_SniperCommented:
Exactly

Buy keystone jacks wall plates and wire and you should be fine
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
If you need help later, email me at thecellomaster@yahoo.com today and I will send you my real email soon

Then when you get the supplies if you run into any problems just shoot me an email as these topics get closed eventually I think
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
im sorry, please do not email me there
it is against the rules and i apoligise
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bbrunningCommented:
Titanium, just FYI. posting email addy's in a forum will get you spammed. Web crawlers go around the net looking for public posted emails and send them to a database for people to email you such things as..."Click here for ***** enlargement. heh
Just thought I'd let you know
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
Thanks and  thats why I posted my spam account
I then read the rules and found I am not allowed to offer help by email
again sorry i broke the rules please don't suspend me
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FriarTukCommented:
why not just buy a wireless access point to extend your range (it should also have cable ports)?
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Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
This has been pretty well addressed, with two exceptions:

(1)  Buy the tool-less jacks:  http://www.cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/147   Trivial to terminate -- no punchdown tool (or dinner knife) required :-)

(2)  A tester isn't required for a one-off job like this; but there's an easy way to test for absolute continuity if you have a multimeter ==> just run a LONG extension cord between the two jacks and attach a thin (22 gauge) to one end (say the ground wire).  Then use a multimeter at one end between the same wire (say the ground wire) and another very thin wire.   Just touch each connector in order (you & your helper) and confirm that you get a short.   Eight wires -- takes eight touches & you're done.   This is a better test than "it works" ==> it will work even if some of the wires aren't crimped correctly, but you'll not be getting the best possible data rate.
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
Personally for wire testing I do a wire map test with an old computer fan and a 9v batery and a desktop power cord I tore apart and lots of tape.

To test the wire, make sure that all pins go to the same one on the other side and that they ONLY go to that pin
make sure that you test to make sure none of the wires are crossed
the technical terms are shorts and opens
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davidgareauAuthor Commented:
Great, thanks, guys, I have ordered 300' of cat5e outdoor cable, 2 Keystone (tool-less) jacks and 2 2-port wall mounts.  Hopefully it's at my home when I get back, and I can finally get fast internet and LAN transfers without any drops.
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
keep us posted
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Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Just as a precaution ... I re-read your question and you mention an Access Point/switch connecting to your wireless router.   What you actually SHOULD have at the other end is a bridge.   Depending on the specific hardware you have, you may be able to set bridging mode => some access points work well that way; some don't.   But you can't just arbitrarily string devices together when more than one has an active DHCP server -- if you do you'll have nice wireless access, but won't be able to work across the various subnets.   If the distant end is just a switch there's no problem;  but if it's another wireless access point you have to be sure and configure it properly or you'll be saying nasty words :-)

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Titanium_SniperCommented:
I agree
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
well 2 months > 21 days I guess but i think >>
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davidgareauAuthor Commented:
Hello, sorry, I had forgotten about the computer for so long.
I got the network working the way I wanted, and used
CAT5E OUtdoor Cable after weighing the opinions you guys gave me.
It goes from one room, out to the outside, I have it running on a bare wall for 20 feet, then under the porch for about 80 feet, back in through the wall and into another room.
In room 1 I have a wall mount, where I used the 2 keystone jacks.
In Room 2 I simply put on some ethernet plugs and plugged the cables right into my wireless router.
Now, I can access the computers great from my laptop on the 2nd floor of the hotel, but it still isn't great enough to stream DivX movies without occassionally screwing up the audio/video sync.  SO I usually just transfer them to the laptop temp directory.
700MB in an average of 10 minutes, over Wireless-G.
I don't know if that's good or not, but the icon in the system tray says 54.0 Mbps and Very Good Connection all the time just about. I can share files between the two desktops in Room 1 very fast as they're both hard-wired.
All in all a great learning experience.  Now I'm just working a lot to pay back all the bills for all the equipment I got :-)
 
I have the bad habit of fixing/learning one thing only to jump right into another and I apologize for the rudeness
thanks agaiin.
David.
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Titanium_SniperCommented:
thank you for coming back, it is very rare that people come back to their questions after this long
also i hope you didnt think my comment about lateness was directed at you, i was just pointing out that the admin said it was greater than 21 days when it was 2 months
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