tomanizer
asked on
Choosing Optimal Wifi Channels - 25 Other routers in range on various channels
A couple of months ago I started having problems with my WIFI network. Connections dropped regularly for no reason. As it turned out two of my neighbours had just bought themselves a Sky broadband modem and my own router interferred with theirs. I therfore switched from channel 11 to channel 1.
Now I am having similar problems.
I checked all wifi networks in our range using Network Stumbler and it turns out that there are more than 30 different SSIDs in reach.
I also spoke to the SONOS support (a wireless audio streamer system) who checked my Sonos logfiles and observed a very high level of frequencey interference.
Channel Networks
1 10
2 1
6 6
9 4
11 19
13 2
I heard that I should only choose 1,6, or 11 because of overlaps.
Now, above are the numbers of all the networks in range.
which channel should I choose?
Is it better to choose something like "4" because no one else is using it? Or will I then get all interference from the channel 1 and channel 6 users?
Same for channel 7, 10 or 12?
Is it better to be on your "own" channel or do I need to stick to the channel 1,6,11 rule?
Now I am having similar problems.
I checked all wifi networks in our range using Network Stumbler and it turns out that there are more than 30 different SSIDs in reach.
I also spoke to the SONOS support (a wireless audio streamer system) who checked my Sonos logfiles and observed a very high level of frequencey interference.
Channel Networks
1 10
2 1
6 6
9 4
11 19
13 2
I heard that I should only choose 1,6, or 11 because of overlaps.
Now, above are the numbers of all the networks in range.
which channel should I choose?
Is it better to choose something like "4" because no one else is using it? Or will I then get all interference from the channel 1 and channel 6 users?
Same for channel 7, 10 or 12?
Is it better to be on your "own" channel or do I need to stick to the channel 1,6,11 rule?
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SOLUTION
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If you have to choose from those channels (that is, Wireless G), you should give some weight to not just the NUMBER of other users on a particular channel, but their signal strength. You want, to the extent possible, to avoid channels where there is STRONG interference; that's more significant than the NUMBER of others who are using the channel. Are you using a utility that measures the relative strength of the other transmitters in your area?
> Are you using a utility that measures the relative strength of the other transmitters in your area?
Apparently you're not familiar with NetStumbler. :-)
Apparently you're not familiar with NetStumbler. :-)
I am familiar with netstumbler; but wasn't sure if the original poster is.
I see... well, from this thread's original message:
''I checked all wifi networks in our range using Network Stumbler and it turns out that there are more than 30 different SSIDs in reach.''
''I checked all wifi networks in our range using Network Stumbler and it turns out that there are more than 30 different SSIDs in reach.''
Ah, I didn't NOTICE that!
So yes, obviously he's able to determine the relative strength of the other transmitters.
So yes, obviously he's able to determine the relative strength of the other transmitters.
That's why I said (in message 22969170),
Save the data in netstumbler for quite a while and then compare the signal:noise graphs it generates. If your card doesn't report noise figures, the graphs won't do much for you. Noise is purple and signal is green in the graphs, if I recall correctly. It can detect lots of APs that you could never get a reliable connection to (and your own AP could step all over that signal locally).
Save the data in netstumbler for quite a while and then compare the signal:noise graphs it generates. If your card doesn't report noise figures, the graphs won't do much for you. Noise is purple and signal is green in the graphs, if I recall correctly. It can detect lots of APs that you could never get a reliable connection to (and your own AP could step all over that signal locally).
If its really that important to you to have a good connection I'd seriously consider getting a quality 5.8GHz AP - and a good WNIC that supports an external antenna.
If your just going to be surfing the net, the previous suggestions will give you an answer.
If your just going to be surfing the net, the previous suggestions will give you an answer.
ASKER
Hi Kyleb84,
What is an 5.8GHz HO?
I am using a Belkin G Mimo Router. Is that the same thing?
I am wondering if my router is broken because it continually drops the connections and if tis really the large number of networks.
It connects stating "excellent signal" and very good connection and 5 minutes later disconnects and reconnects with "weak signal" "poor connection" and 5 minutes later connects again with excellent connection with the laptop staying in the same place, very close to the router.
What is an 5.8GHz HO?
I am using a Belkin G Mimo Router. Is that the same thing?
I am wondering if my router is broken because it continually drops the connections and if tis really the large number of networks.
It connects stating "excellent signal" and very good connection and 5 minutes later disconnects and reconnects with "weak signal" "poor connection" and 5 minutes later connects again with excellent connection with the laptop staying in the same place, very close to the router.
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ASKER
I found this
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-mimo-routers.htm
which seems to suggest that my MIMO router is a 802.11n router.
So I understand that you would expect it to be more stable.
Could it be broken?
Do I need a special card in my Laptop as well in order to connect to 802.11n.
I assume it is just connceting using 802.11g .
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-mimo-routers.htm
which seems to suggest that my MIMO router is a 802.11n router.
So I understand that you would expect it to be more stable.
Could it be broken?
Do I need a special card in my Laptop as well in order to connect to 802.11n.
I assume it is just connceting using 802.11g .
Belkin does not currently make a draft-n labeled as ''MIMO''... they're all 11b/11g (2.4GHz) devices.
ASKER
This is my router:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-F5D8630uk4A-ADSL2-Router-Modem/dp/B000F29I60
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-F5D8630uk4A-ADSL2-Router-Modem/dp/B000F29I60
I see... but that's the amazon store's hype. See http://www.belkin.com/uk/support/product/?lid=enu&pid=F5D8630uk4A
Doesn't say MIMO anywhere in the title, quick start guide, or anywhere that I could find on Belkin's web sites. That's what I meant by Belkin didn't make one labeled MIMO... I guess that doesn't mean others can't call them MIMO.
Your router is 2.4GHz-only, so you won't be able to get away from the overcrowding on the b/g band using that equipment, even if you bought a different adapter for your computer.
Doesn't say MIMO anywhere in the title, quick start guide, or anywhere that I could find on Belkin's web sites. That's what I meant by Belkin didn't make one labeled MIMO... I guess that doesn't mean others can't call them MIMO.
Your router is 2.4GHz-only, so you won't be able to get away from the overcrowding on the b/g band using that equipment, even if you bought a different adapter for your computer.
ASKER
It says "TRUE MIMO" on the router itself :-)
ASKER
Alright. I guess I need to buy a new router. I will let you know how it goes.
But what happens when all others upgrade too?
Are we going to have some kind of escalating upgrade war between neighbours to distort each others wifi networks?
But what happens when all others upgrade too?
Are we going to have some kind of escalating upgrade war between neighbours to distort each others wifi networks?
> It says "TRUE MIMO" on the router itself :-)
I didn't notice that. I just looked on belkin's sites (belkin.com and belkin.co.uk) and all the units with MIMO in their titles were G-only.
> But what happens when all others upgrade too?
If you get a dual-band, you shouldn't need to worry about running out of space for a while using 5GHz 11a (or 5GHz 11n when it's finalized). The channels used for WiFi don't overlap in that band. See the attached... in Europe/UK the 20MHz-wide WiFi channels available in the 5GHz U-NII band are the 19 shown in the ETSI column. The bottom 3 or 4 have a much-shorter range because they have a lower power limit, but that also means there will be less interference from competing units (using those channels) in high-density areas; The power limits for the 3 non-overlapping channels are the same acrosss the 2.4GHz ISM band, though they may vary by enforcement zone.
WiMAX and LTE may well relieve some of the overcrowding on WiFi as well, but those are still at least a year away from widespread rollout/adoption. Chipsets with WiMAX and WiFi integrated are due out soon, with WiMAX/WiFi/GPS
5GHz-Frequency-map.jpg
I didn't notice that. I just looked on belkin's sites (belkin.com and belkin.co.uk) and all the units with MIMO in their titles were G-only.
> But what happens when all others upgrade too?
If you get a dual-band, you shouldn't need to worry about running out of space for a while using 5GHz 11a (or 5GHz 11n when it's finalized). The channels used for WiFi don't overlap in that band. See the attached... in Europe/UK the 20MHz-wide WiFi channels available in the 5GHz U-NII band are the 19 shown in the ETSI column. The bottom 3 or 4 have a much-shorter range because they have a lower power limit, but that also means there will be less interference from competing units (using those channels) in high-density areas; The power limits for the 3 non-overlapping channels are the same acrosss the 2.4GHz ISM band, though they may vary by enforcement zone.
WiMAX and LTE may well relieve some of the overcrowding on WiFi as well, but those are still at least a year away from widespread rollout/adoption. Chipsets with WiMAX and WiFi integrated are due out soon, with WiMAX/WiFi/GPS
5GHz-Frequency-map.jpg
Hmmm... part got chopped off:
with WiMAX/WiFi/GPS/et al combo chips due in 2010.
with WiMAX/WiFi/GPS/et al combo chips due in 2010.
ASKER
hm. a new N-router and still the same problem.
Connection is excellent for an hour or two and then suddenly the connection drops and the network disappears for a while (up to 10 15 minutes). then it comes on again with "excellent connection".
Meanwhile the laptop has not moved a bit. no settings were changed.
Connection is excellent for an hour or two and then suddenly the connection drops and the network disappears for a while (up to 10 15 minutes). then it comes on again with "excellent connection".
Meanwhile the laptop has not moved a bit. no settings were changed.
ASKER
problem has not been solved but I guess there is no solution.
It is possible (and easy) to send de-authentication packets to all clients connected to the WLAN and force them to re-associate - regardless of if encryption is in use, and is usually the first sign that someone is trying to get on to your WLAN.