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Temperature Concern - Gateway GT5662

HMCS asked
Medium Priority
Last Modified: 2013-11-10
I have an 18 month old computer in which I decided to check temperatures on it and used both Speedfan and Everest Ultimate. Some of the temperatures seem possibly out of range but I cannot find exactly what they pertain to the locations inside the computer.

With Speedfan I am getting the following:

Temp 1 145 F
Temp 2  97 F
Temp 3  73 F
Core     110 F

With Everest Ultimate I get the following:

Motherboard   95 F
CPU                 73 F
MCP                135 F
AUX                 135 F
GPU Diode      86 F

These are readings with the side cover off and a 10 inch fan blowing inside it - with the case closed the temperatures are higher but all fans are working.

I have no idea what the 145 F temperature is with Speedfan nor do I know what MCP, Aux and GPU diode are as reported in Everest Ultimate.

There is what I have, according to Everest:

      Computer Type                                     ACPI x86-based PC
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium
      OS Service Pack                                   -
      Internet Explorer                                 8.0.6001.18702
      DirectX                                           DirectX 10.0
      Computer Name                                     AKHENATEN-PC (Graphics computer)
      User Name                                         Akhenaten
      Logon Domain                                      Akhenaten-PC
      Date / Time                                       2009-07-01 / 10:25

      CPU Type                                          QuadCore AMD Phenom, 2200 MHz (11 x 200)
      Motherboard Name                                  Unknown
      Motherboard Chipset                               nVIDIA nForce 6100-4xx, AMD K10
      System Memory                                     3072 MB  (DDR2 SDRAM)
      BIOS Type                                         Award (11/26/07)

      Video Adapter                                     ATI Radeon HD 2400 XT  (256 MB)
      Video Adapter                                     ATI Radeon HD 2400 XT  (256 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    ATI Radeon HD 2400 XT (RV610)
      Monitor                                           Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB]  (MEY79D0N09991)

      Audio Adapter                                     ATI HD 2xxx HDMI @ ATI Radeon HD 2400 - High Definition Audio Controller
      Audio Adapter                                     Realtek ALC888/S/T @ nVIDIA MCP61 - High Definition Audio Controller

      IDE Controller                                    NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
      IDE Controller                                    NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
      IDE Controller                                    Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
      Storage Controller                                Microsoft iSCSI Initiator
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB CF Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB MS Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB SD Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB SM Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        WDC WD50 00AAKS-00YGA SCSI Disk Device  (465 GB)
      Optical Drive                                     Optiarc DVD RW AD-7203A ATA Device
      SMART Hard Disks Status                           Unknown

      C: (NTFS)                                         465643 MB (263505 MB free)
      D: (NTFS)                                         11295 MB (4596 MB free)
      Total Size                                        465.8 GB (261.8 GB free)

      Keyboard                                          Standard PS/2 Keyboard
      Mouse                                             PS/2 Compatible Mouse

      Primary IP Address                      
      Primary MAC Address                               00-1E-90-69-1D-A0
      Network Adapter                                   NVIDIA nForce Networking Controller  (
      Modem                                             PCI Soft Data Fax Modem with SmartCP

      Printer                                           Epson Stylus C88 Series (M)
      Printer                                           Epson Stylus Photo 1280 (M)
      Printer                                           Epson Stylus Photo R320 (M)
      Printer                                           Microsoft XPS Document Writer
      Printer                                           Send To OneNote 2007
      USB1 Controller                                   nVIDIA MCP61 - OHCI USB 1.1 Controller
      USB2 Controller                                   nVIDIA MCP61 - EHCI USB 2.0 Controller
      USB Device                                        Generic USB Hub
      USB Device                                        Multimedia Card Reader

      DMI BIOS Vendor                                   Phoenix Technologies, LTD
      DMI BIOS Version                                  6.00 PG
      DMI System Manufacturer                           Gateway
      DMI System Product                                GT5662
      DMI System Version                                110
      DMI System Serial Number                          GC77C11005389
      DMI System UUID                                   00000000-00000000-08070605-04030201
      DMI Motherboard Manufacturer                      ECS
      DMI Motherboard Product                           MCP61PM-GM
      DMI Motherboard Version                           2.1
      DMI Motherboard Serial Number                     OEM
      DMI Chassis Manufacturer                          Gateway
      DMI Chassis Version                               Unknow
      DMI Chassis Serial Number                         Unknow
      DMI Chassis Asset Tag                             Unknow
      DMI Chassis Type                                  Desktop Case
      DMI Total / Free Memory Sockets                   4 / 0

    Monitor ID      GWY096B: Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB]
    Monitor Model   FHD2400
    Motherboard     11/26/2007-MCP61PM-GM-6A61KCDHC-00
    Motherboard     DMIMOBO: ECS MCP61PM-GM
    Motherboard     DMISYS: Gateway GT5662
    Motherboard     MCP61PM-GM v1.04G 11/26/2007

 Sensor Properties:
      Sensor Type                                       ITE IT8726F  (ISA 290h)
      GPU Sensor Type                                   Diode  (ATI-Diode)
      Chassis Intrusion Detected                        Yes

      Motherboard                                       36 °C  (97 °F)
      CPU                                               23 °C  (73 °F)
      MCP                                               58 °C  (136 °F)
      Aux                                               59 °C  (138 °F)
      GPU Diode                                         31 °C  (88 °F)

    Cooling Fans:
      CPU                                               2711 RPM
      Chassis                                           1974 RPM

    Voltage Values:
      CPU Core                                          1.14 V
      +2.5 V                                            2.48 V
      +3.3 V                                            1.76 V
      +5 V                                              5.51 V
      +12 V                                             11.78 V
      +5 V Standby                                      5.05 V
      VBAT Battery                                      3.18 V
      Debug Info F                                      00F9 0156 0000 0000 0000
      Debug Info T                                      59 36 23
      Debug Info V                                      47 9B 6E CD B8 48 B1 (7F)

--------[ CPU ]---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    CPU Properties:
      CPU Type                                          QuadCore AMD Phenom, 2200 MHz (11 x 200)
      CPU Alias                                         Agena
      CPU Stepping                                      DR-B2
      Instruction Set                                   x86, x86-64, MMX, 3DNow!, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSE4A
      Original Clock                                    2200 MHz
      Min / Max CPU Multiplier                          5x / 11x
      Engineering Sample                                No
      L1 Code Cache                                     64 KB per core
      L1 Data Cache                                     64 KB per core
      L2 Cache                                          512 KB per core  (On-Die, ECC, Full-Speed)
      L3 Cache                                          2 MB  (On-Die, ECC, Full-Speed)

    Multi CPU:
      Motherboard ID                                    OEM00000 PROD00000000
      CPU #1                                            AMD Phenom(tm) 9500 Quad-Core Processor, 2210 MHz
      CPU #2                                            AMD Phenom(tm) 9500 Quad-Core Processor, 2210 MHz
      CPU #3                                            AMD Phenom(tm) 9500 Quad-Core Processor, 2210 MHz
      CPU #4                                            AMD Phenom(tm) 9500 Quad-Core Processor, 2210 MHz

    CPU Physical Info:
      Package Type                                      940 Pin uOPGA
      Package Size                                      4.00 cm x 4.00 cm
      Transistors                                       463 million
      Process Technology                                11Mi, 65 nm, CMOS, Cu, Low-K, DSL SOI
      Die Size                                          283 mm2
      I/O Voltage                                       1.2 V + 2.5 V

    CPU Manufacturer:
      Company Name                                      Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.
      Product Information                               http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/Product

I hope that someone will be able to determine what these values pertain to what part of the computer and if the higher values in the 130 - 145 F area pose any type of concern.
Watch Question


Check in the motherboard bios, for a section with the temps in it, and use that to match the software temps. Let the system sit in the bios for 5 -10 minutes, to stabilize. Write them down.

Then check against the SpeedFan and Everest readings, after they have stabilized.

The really high temps probaby belong to sensors not hooked up to anything.


I checked in BIOS and found only these two temperatures:

CPU Control 57-58 C
Current System Temperature 36 C

I let it idle in Bios for 7 minutes.

Then I check both Speedfan and Everest and got these values yesterday at around 6 AM:


Temp 1 138 F
Temp 2  99
Temp 3 73
Core     109


MB   99 F
CPU 73
MCP 133
Aux  136
GPU 88

Later in the day after the computer had been running for hours these values were obtained:


Temp 1 154 F
Temp 2 109
Temp 3  73
Core      125

MB   109 F
CPU 73
MCP 138
AUX 154
GPU 88

It seems that the 73 F that has been reported i in error and cannot be true since the ambient temperature in the room is  higher than the reported 73 F.

I still have no idea what some of these values represent and if those higher values suggest that something is not correct, considering I am getting these values even with the side cover off and a 10 inch fan blowing into the tower. I have a feeling that these higher values are true values in that they do change both up and down and are not constant like as in the 73 F reported temperature.

Your suggestions are welcomed :-)

Let's see:
SpeedFan      Everest
#1                   AUX    = cpu temp
#2                   MB     = system temp
#3                   CPU   = not connected
core                MCP(?)= cpu die temp (see Everest FAQ)
                      GPU    = video card  (can you check in the ATI Control Panel to cross-check the temp?)

Hmmmm....  AMD says 70C max temp on the cpu, but when those boys hit the 60sC (140F) you need to think of checking into why.
Yours is topping out at about 67C

It might have dust clogging the fins on the heatsink/fan.
It might just need some new thermal paste (don't forget to clean the old paste off, first).
Or a decent heatsink fan

The Everset FAQ has a few answers about their temps (#27, 28, 30, 34, and 35)


Seems like it's been topping out about 60 C (140) and it's been on most of today and tonight (10:35 PM now). Also, perhaps the extreme temperatures we are having this summer contribute to having higher temps. I cannot take alot of A/C and thus I run higher air temperatures than most people do in the summer. It will be interesting to see what my temperatures are in the winter when my air temperature is about 65 F.

But seems like I need to start investigating about the high CPU temperature. I seem to have a decent CPU fan and the RPMs seem to be ok.

I would think the GPU temp is ok but I will check.

One odd thing is that these temperatures all seem to hit these values almost instantly right after boot. I see no "warm up" temps like I see in my rather old 1 ghz athlon that is at least 8 years old.

I also have a brand new  ibuypower computer with 8 GB of ram and I would be interested in seeing what the temperatures are in it - that computer has virtually nothing on it. The computer for all intents and purposes has not been used but I have only had it a week.

If you live in the USA - Happy 4th of July :-)

Thanks, but work is seriously cutting into my party time.    ; )

>>  temperatures all seem to hit these values almost instantly

I've noticed that with the newer stuff. Plus yours IS pre-heated.  : )


I'm retired, partly not by choice - called a stroke but I'm also military retired (24 years).  Had the stroke well after I retired from the military.

I am going to check into the temperatures on my new 64 bit machine - I'm wondering if these newer processors and things so actually generate more hest.

Right now I am on dial up (by choice) on my oldest computer - I also have another 10" fan blowing into it for the reason that I had a processor fan die on me and I never got around to replacing it.

My temps (according to speedfain):

Temp 1 93 F
Temp 2 116 F processor)
Temp 3 67 F (non-functional)
HD0      97 F
HD1      95 F

Considering the age of this computer these are not bad values. The prcessor is an old 1.1 ghz Athlon

Anyway I'm going to look today into the URLs you gave me on the AMD and Everest site.


>>  I'm wondering if these newer processors and things do actually generate more heat.

Most of the numbers I have seen have the AMD 64 and newer, and the Intel Core2 Duo and newer, in the low to mid 30sC (90 to 100F), for idle temps.

>> that I had a processor fan die on me

That's fairly good temps on the 1100, for no cpu fan.   : ))
Just be careful, those old Athlons (which I love) will cook real quick, and there is/was a video of one catching on fire, floating around the web.


Well the reason the old athlon temps are low like that is because of that 10" box fan I stuck beside the open case. I also never leave it on when I'm not around - actually none of mine are left on alone for other than a few minutes and when I go out of town are all literally unplugged from the wall, phone lines, cable lines, et al. I take no chances !!!!

Now again, as to the higher temps with this Gateway - even with a fan literally similar to the one placed in my oldest working comp I am getting temps near the borderline. The lowest I have seen in about 135 F.The rest of the temps I consider probally normal. Still I have not looked at the temps on my brand new Vista 64 computer. Been too busy with one of my pastimes - my GameCube and finishing off Pokemon Colosseum )stil got side quests to go) - Nintendo and Pokemon, Mario, Sonic, Tetris are some of my 2nd childhood. I enjoy it greatly.

Now that I've settled down from my 4th of July supper - I'm going to cut on the new Vista 64 and get some temperature readings on it. I only have speedfan for it (no Everest) but can check temps in BIOS.

I'll tell you about that when I have the results/


I have some very interesting results on the new Vista 64 computer.

It took me forever to locate in the BIOS the temperature settings and there were only two of them:

CPU 43 C/109 F
MB  44 C/111 F

The Speedfan reads were slightly different and were rising as I wrote them down:

GPU      133 F  (138 F Later)
System 111 F  (120 Later)
CPU       107 F
AUX       45 F   (Not fuctionalO
Core 0  122 F
Core 1  115 F
Core 2  117 F
Core 3  117 F

Speedfan only reported one fan - the CPU fan @ 3125 RPM - surely this computer would have more than one operational fan.

The computer is almost like it was out of the box, the only software added to it is Speedfan and nothing else.


The Vista64 temps look good. Vista is usually doing 'something', so the temps should be a little higher than the bios readings.
I am running an older P4 (also no AC), and it wants to hang out in the low 120sF at idle.  It made a nice space heater this past winter.
 ; )


I also forgot to mention that I rarely use air conditioning - I did at one time but that stroke 5 years ago changed my internal thermostat.

I generally, beleive it or not, live here with temperatures in the apartment at 85 to 90 F. This might be one reason for the higher temps but yet my little old computer is doing well with the temperatures is has and I use it every morning as I sip on my coffee.

Still ambient temperature or not I don't think the internal temps of this Gateway are right - they might be later in the year as it cools off. In the winter I run the apartment at 65-70 F, occasionally @ 60 F.

>> live here with temperatures in the apartment at 85 to 90 F.

Sounds lovely. I was born, raised, and live in Central Florida, and that's just about my comfort zone.   : ))
And while computers aren't real crazy about it, it does sound like the cpu is having trouble getting rid of its heat. Bad thermal paste, cheap heatsink/fan, or dirty heatsink/fan, is where I would start.


yea and if that is the problem I have no idea how and where to start - not something I've really ever fooled with. Must go to bed - past nidnight - later !

First check for dust.
Get a flashlight and look in the top of the cpu fan and see if there is dust built up on the blades and in the fins of the heatsink.
If it's not too bad, try blowing it out. Compressed air is good at this. They make some just for this purpose, it has no moisture in it.
A medium-soft art brush in the 1/4 - 3/8 inch diameter range works.

If it is bad (like stuffed), you might as well plan on taking it apart, and doing fresh thermal paste also. It is hard to get them really clean while mounted, though you can just get the worst of it out. That would help some.


Well here it is nearly 3 AM and I am up checking some of the things you mentioned. I'd already blown out the dust for the most part much earlier. It was quite clean, as I've seen others that were filthy. I redid the cleaning and paid special attention to the CPU fan (which was extremely clean) and all in and around the CPU, etc. I also went over the entire interior once again just to be sure.

I also, just for good measure, replaced my 10" fan with a 20" box fan & for all intents and purposes even with the larger fan on high (very noisy) there was little difference in temperatures. I went back to the 10" fan. Nothing I have done so far has made a real difference in the temperatures.

According to Speedfan the Temp 1 (CPU) is sitting between 136 and 138 F, but occasionally jumps to 140. Everest reports the AUX (CPU) @ 140 F and the MCP @ 153 F.

All this is in an apartment at 3 AM, which is cooler at this time of night. According to the thermostat in the apartment it is still fairly warm at 84 F.

So I'm at a loss about the situation. The fan looks good and is turning at a decent rate of speed. There is also a case fan that seems to work ok and also a fan in the power supply as well.

Before I started all this investigation and at the time the cover was still on the tower, I would occasionally hear a "whine" almost like a CD/DVD player but with the cover off I have never heard this noise before, even while I was running BOINC, which definately raises the temperature. BOINC, if you didn't know, is a part of the "Seti" program. All the temperatures I have given you are without BOINC running & are pretty much while the computer is on idle or on a few low load.

I hope this helps because I am mystified.

About all that's left is:
- the sensor is wacked and giving a bad number.
- bad paste or the heatsink isn't making good contact with the cpu
- it's a Gateway.   ; )

My room is in the mid 80sF, and my P4 is staying in the low to mid 40sC (call it 115F). All I have is a 10" fan about 8' away, blowing in this general direction.

>>  would occasionally hear a "whine" almost like a CD/DVD player

That might be the cpu fan kicking into high gear. Mine does that when the temp get past 50C (120F)
--- a Compaq I have promised myself to use as a skeet target one day ---


Want to borrow my Remington 870 wingmaster?

The sensor might be wacked, that is always possible.
It could be the paste on the heatsink.
This is my 2nd Gateway BTW - I didn't learn the 1st time.

We had a rather dramatic rainstorm here this afternoon (first good rain since spring) and the temperature dropped dramatically and I did notice a drop in the computer temperature by about 4 F.

So if it is the heatsink paste problem is there any kind of a how to file on doing this because I've never messed with anything like this in my life and I don't really care to mess up this computer anymore than necessary and besides it is the only computer in the house on high speed cable - everything else is on dial up. my 2 oldest comps are not high speed ready and the oldest never will be. The brand new one is on dial up for registration of software purposes only and once I have Photoshop CS4 on it and registered/activated there will be little else in the way of software on it and it will become for all intents and purposes a stand alone computer.

Also I am running about 136 F with several tabs open on IE and Firefox + PalTalk and usually it would be hitting over 140 F - so I do think the ambient temperature in this apartment is one of the factors but not the whole picture.

Again, any suggestions are welcomed.

This has two YouTube clips on installing the AMD Phenom, and it looks like a couple of forum howto's sprinkled in later.
To remove the heatsink, just reverse the process.

You can also check AMDs site.

Not sure about the Gatway, but most of the AMDs I have done are simple 'spring clips' that hook to opposite sides of the socket.

Your temps are only on the high side, they aren't like HIGH!
Also, they are -consistently- on the high side. [All of them are.]
I would:

- Check that your +3.3v, +5v, and +5vsb are in the middle of the range.
[Sensors are powered by one of them but I dunno which on yours.]

- Work on improving the air-flow in and out of the case.

Those are the two things I can think of that might affect -all- of your temps at the same time.


I really didn't think ALL of them were on the high side, only some. Right now it is my opinion that the ambient temperatures in the apartment might have something to do with the higher temps.

At this time I am going to look at the links and instructions given to me by coral47 and just wait and watch and not put the computer in a strain where I have seen it go to 150 F but with normal and careful use the main temperature will be with the 136 to 140 F range.

Fall and winter will tell the tale on this problem eventually, as I run the apartment much cooler in the winter, with temperature between 60 and 65 F, occasionally 70 to 72 F. I have on few occasions run 56-58 F but it is more of an accident than something planned. As I explained earlier when I had the stroke in 2004 it somehow made my internal temperature go a little on the wacked side. There is literally nothing that can be done about that , believe me I have asked. After nearly 5 years I am as good as it gets, except for the cataracts - nothing else will probably ever change for the better & let's hope none for the worse.

I have slightly moved the tower a few feet here it has a better air flow, as I keep both front and rear doors open and I also switched the fan to an identical one that was much younger. It seems to have a wee bit more rpm.

In your opinion how dangerous is letting this temperature problem carefully slide until I can determine the full effect of the ambient temperatures consistent with a seasonal change?

And BTW all voltages seem to be within normal range on the 3.3, 5v and 5 vsb. At this moment and writing this comment my #1 temperature according to speedfan  is between 136 and 138 F. Nothing else is running except taskmanager and speedfan. I have gone to the trouble of stopping all what I consider non-essential programs and have lowered the ram to nearly 1 GB on full idle. I also have windows sidebar running.

Thanks for you time on this problem.

>> how dangerous is letting this temperature problem carefully slide...

Short term, probably not very. As long as it in that range.
Long term, it will probably shorten the 'life-expectancy' of the system.

I have been noticing others that have similar temps with their systems (mostly Gateways), so it just might be a "design flaw"(airflow, cheap sensors, etc), as one guy put an after market heatsink/fan on, and it only helped a little.


It looks like I'll never buy a Gateway again - why do I own two of them? I'm not real sure if the first Gateway has the same problem - I rarely ever use it. I use my oldest custom one which does not have a CPU fan on it but rather in its place a fan very similar to the one on this Gateway and it is chugging along well with very decent temperatures, although it has other substantial problems which probally are bit repairable.

What will be the ultimate "failure" I will encounter - the CPU ?

On a side note - with the Vista 64 machine that I have would it be wise to upgrade to 7? I read or heard that new computers recently purchased could get 7 at a decent price - anything to this ? The reason I ask is that I'm a senior citizen and despite the cash purchase of the Vista 64 machine I am on limited funds. Anything to save a few $$$ is a good thing.  Beleive it or not I have not had time to really play with it - I've been messing with this Gateway and its problems and besides I use it alot and also the oldest one is used every morning as I drink my morning coffee (on dial up).

Let's hope I have better luck with my Vista 64 computer. I deserve a break today !!!!


I meant to say are NOT repairable. Sorry for the typo.

>> What will be the ultimate "failure" I will encounter...

Hard to say for sure. Most likely the transistors in the cpu will 'die'. But it might take out a mobo circuit or VRM.

>>  heard that new computers recently purchased could get 7 at a decent price - anything to this ?

Seems to be. I haven't kept up on the details. You should check where you bought it and see if they are offering the option
I've been playing with the W7 Beta and RC. It almost makes me not miss W98.  I'm mostly using W2K Pro now.
XP and Vista were just too big a headache.

>> I deserve a break today !!!!

I will drink to that.   Cheers!   : )

>> - Work on improving the air-flow in and out of the case. <<
Air that is going around in circles inside you case isn't doing much cooling.

One of some of:
Add a fan in the back panel if there isn't one.
Add a fan in the side panel.
A series of 1/8" to 3/16" holes can do wonders. [Put in side panel, low, near front.]

Intel considers the useful lifetime of CPUs to be 7 years.
That's not an engineering 'thing' to failure, it's a marketing 'thing' to obsolete.
Even at max temp IC chips (which CPU's are) will last at least 7 years.
- That's one of the consideration they use to determine that number.

Electrolytic capacitors are another story.
Every 10c rise in temp reduces the lifespan by 1/2.
Most motherboard [and PSU] grade caps are rated for 1000 to 2000 hours at 105c. [Logarithmic curve.]
2000 to 4000 Hr at 95c
4000 to 6000 Hr at 85c
8000 to 12000 Hr at 75c
16000 to 24000 Hr at 65c
32000 to 48000 Hr at 55c -> 3.75 to 7.5 years
64000 to 96000 Hr at 45c -> 7.5 to 15 years
And now you know why it's recommended to keep ambient case temp below 45c.
--> It's to ensure the system lasts 'at least' the 7 years of 'useful' lifetime.


Right now I have the main side panel off and there is a 10" fan almost literally stuck in it and duck taped so it was not vibrate out and it is on high.  I can see if I can remove the other side panel and let air flow from one side to the other.

The fan that is in now nearly covers the entire side panel. I have several of these fans that are not being used and only need to be cleaned and blown out with cmpressed air.

My 8 year old computer that I am using right now had a CPU fan failure and I never got to replacing it. Instead I have opened up the side panel and took it off and placed one of those 10" fans into it. This has gone on for quite a number of years. The temperatures in it are hafway decent for it.

Temp 1 92 F
Temp 2 122 F
Temp 3  67 F )Probally NOT Functional)
HD0       97 F
HD1      95 F

Considering everyting I think these are not too bad values for this 8 year old computer.

So it looks like today I will see about the other side panel and see if it can be removed and what effect it wil have on the temperature problem.


I failed to safely remove the other side cover. I can send you pictures if you like on it. I did,however, manage to remove the very top cover and there seems to already be vent oles of different sizes and shapes in it. Next, I had bought another 10" box fan and I placed it and another  10" box fan together sort of side by side and turned them both on high. It has made some difference and here are some values and voltages I got from Speedfan, Everest & CUPID.


Temp 1 131-133 F
Temp 2 100 F
Core      101-104 F


MB        100 F
MCP     138 F
AUX      133 F
GPU D 84 F


TMPIN0 130-134 F
TMPIN1 100 F
ACPI      103 (THRM)
Core      101

Now here are some voltages I got from Everest & CUPID:


CPU Core   1.15v
+2.5v            2.48v
+3.3v            1.76v
+5v               5.54v
+12v             11.78v
+5v Stnby     5.05v
VBat              3.18v


CPU Core    


It messed up when I was working on the CUPID values - here they are:


CPU Core    1.14v
VIN1              2.48v
+3.3v             1.76v
+5v                 5.54v
+12v              11.78v
-12v               - 4.67v
-5v                 -11.33v
+5 VCCH       5.05v
V Bat              3.18

If you see anything wrong with these voltage values let me know and if there is anything that can be done to bring them in line.

By adding (messily I might add) a 2nd fan and at least being able to take off the vbery top of the case I have managed to get things a little bit cooler.

As far as removing the other side panel I am going to defer that since I feel that the chance of danger is present and it not worth the chance. I can made pictures with my Canon XTi, if necessary and I know they can be uploaded to a site where they can be viewed - I just don't remember the URL for it, etc. Let me know if any pictures would be necessary.

Let me know what you think so far !! thanks :-)

I think you flipped the -12v and -5v
CPU Core, Vin1, and V Bat are regulated by the motherboard and those all look okay.
The rest are regulated by the PSU.
[+5 VCCH means +5vsb]

The 3.3v and +5v are out of spec.
This indicates a Power Supply regulation problem and that can overheat the regulators on the mobo.
The actual power supply voltages should be thus:
+12v   = 11.40-12.60  
+5v     = 4.75-5.25   [yours is 5.54]
+5vsb = 4.75-5.25
+3.3v  = 3.14-3.47 [yours is 1.76]
-12v  = [-]10.80-13.20
-5v    = [-]4.50-5.50
+3.3v and +5v generally tap off the same winding in the applicable PSU transformer and are 'group' regulated which basically means there is one regulator mechanism that handles both of them.
One is out low and the other is out high.
- Yes, that can result in high temps because the regulators on the board are overworking to compensate.
- Also the Temp sensors are most likely powered by either 3.3v or 5v and as those voltages are wrong the temp readings may be wrong.
I think you need a new PSU.

Glad I refreshed first, So I will edit out what PCBONEZ already covered (and better).  

Interesting. At least the temps are heading the right direction. But it looks like Gateways just wants to run warm. I forgot to grab a link, but I saw another one with an i7 running almost the same temps as you. And I know that isn't normal for an i7.

You shouldn't have to worry about the other side panel. You can try putting the fan a short distance away from the computer and see if that will take a couple of more degrees off. I have never found it necessary to mount a deskfan to the case, 2 or 3 feet away works best for me.


I double checked the -12 & -5 more than once before I wrote them down - I thought they looked screwy to me. I can't understand why the difference in the -12 & -5 as reported by CPUID.

I am really in hopes that a PSU replacement is not necessary - I doubt in my condition I could replace it and I cannot afford to have it replaced. It is hard to believe that a PSU in a computer this young would simply fall apart like this - is this another Gateway benefit ?

As it stands now the two 10" fans are flush with the case (tower) and are on full power.

is there any possible way to get these voltages right - that is IF they are actually out of whack in the first place? And while we are on that page is it actually possible that if these values are wrong then the temperatures might not be as bad as indicated (just a thought mind you).

>> is there any possible way to get these voltages right

Not without trying a different PSU. And even then it might not help much, it might be the mobo.

>>  then the temperatures might not be as bad as indicated

It's possible. One quick and dirty is to place some fingers as close to the bottom of the cpu heatsinkas you can, and see how long it take for you to let go (keeping in mind the object is NOT to blister your fingertips).

At this point, if it was me, I would run it as is since it does seem to be working.
I would keep an eye on the temps (under 65C/150F), and keep current backups of anything important.

(-)5v is not even used by your system so it's apt to wander a bit.
The regualtor is trying to regulate a voltage rail with no load at all.

(-)5v is no longer used since ISA slots went away.
- That is except for a few odd-ball motherboards that had ISA based devices integrated into the motherboard.
Such motherboard designs were obsolete around year 2001-ish.
By then integrated devices were (or should have been) PCI based.

(-)12v is also a very lightly loaded rail and is apt to wander a bit.
It's not 'really' used as a power source like you might think.
It's mostly used as a reference voltage for voltage dividers and so forth in IC chips. [Biasing.]
That's all -5v did as well but it only did so for ISA based chips.

Those two simply aren't -that- critical, which is why the PSU specs for -5v and -12v are +/-10% instead of +/-5% like all the others.



Coral - I'll try your fingertip idea in the morning - when I have enough light to correctly see and be able to move without hitting the floor. I'll also have my wrist strap on. Right now the Temp 1 on SpeedFan has been sitting most of the night at about 133-135 F with only an occasional wandering to 140 or slightly above and I am not pushing it - just casual use, Firefox and a chat program. For a very short while I saw a 129 F.

It is comforting to know that the two voltages that are out of whack are not critical ones. That does ease my mind.

I'm really very concerned about the +3.3v and +5v readings. [Especially the +3.3v.]
Those indicate a serious problem of the kind that can 'fry' a motherboard.


Well it seems like this is just a matter of time before my Gateway will be reduced to a very heavy paperweight. I cannot afford to have it fixed nor can I physically do the install if it is a PSU, if even that would solve the problem. I am going to get as much off this computer as possible and then junk it in a very deep lake.  I'll never buy another Gateway again. I'm going back to my old 8 year old computer and dial up. I do have the Vista 64 which is brand new and not had any software on it, but I have no intents about putting in online now or ever.

My only solution will be to wait about a year and save enough money to buy a computer & monitor that will go the distance.  I am on a very limited income from SS & military retirement and have recently been forced into filling bankruptcy. It took a year to save up the money for the Vista 64.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this computer was possibly like this from the beginning - even tho it is 18 months old it has only recently become used much (high speed internet) and many times it was not even turned on once a month or even more.

I guess we live and learn !!!!!

>> and then junk it in a very deep lake

Don't let the EPA catch you.
A better idea is to donate it to some group you are not really fond of, and let them deal with it.
If possible, nuke the hard drive, and put a clean install back on it.
Don't forget to get a receipt so you can claim it on your taxes.


I just hate I'm about to lose a perfectly good computer  - this really gets me !!! I did some checking around and we only have about 2 places that will put in a PSU and they want about $250. For me that is alot of groceries. If I hadn't had that stroke I might have been able to put one in it but I think it is fairly complicated.

If I decide just to let it die - how long do you think it's got?

If it's that new you could probably sell it on Craig's List for enough to get a working machine.

Could go tomorrow, could be a year or two.
Like I said before, I would just go ahead and use it. Keep an eye on the temps and keep a backup of anything you can't easily replace (something you should do anyway).

You've GOT to know someone that can help you with it.
It not that tough of a job. - $250 for that is CRAZY!
A bunch of plugs that only fit one way and a few screws.
MUCH assistance on the web for it too.


Never fooled with craig's list - I might just cut it off, put it in a closet and see if 6 months down the line it could be fixed. Do you really think a PSU would solve the problem or is it probably too late? I can't give or sell a piece of junk to anyone - just would not set right with me.

In the meantime I'll just continue to use the old computer on dial up. My first Gateway I never did like - it can't be put on cable internet either (according to comcast) and the other one is just too old period.

And, like I said,  the Vista 64 is for use only with Photoshop CS4 and nothing else. I have a modem for it and it's only to activate CS4.


I don't know anyone per se - two of my best friends are in worse shape than I am - one had one eye and does not see well out of the other and the other friend is in a chair 90% of the time.

Even if I could replace it I have no idea what to buy.

Are you SURE there are adequate instructions on the web for an idiot or 2 to attempt a replacement?

It's there.
And if it wasn't, for a Vet, I'll PUT it there myself.

Here's the basic idea.
- Unplug it.
- Remove two side panel screws.
- Slide the side back a bit, then it lifts off.
- Disconnect all the plugs.
-------- As you are new to this write each one down as a check-off list for later.
- Remove 4 screws that hold PSU in.
- Switch the PSU's and replace the 4 screws.
- Connect all the wires using your list from earlier.
- Replace side cover and it's screws.
- Plug it in.
- Done!

If fact after I wrote that I found Gateway's step by step that has photo links.
I found it looking for photos to post here for you.


Thanks - now I have an idea about what must be done - the only thing is which PSU to get - from what little I know there are actual differences in them and I want to get one that is exactly right for my needs.

Already looked up the specs and I intend to make some suggestions but I'm not going to do that without doing some research on the models I suggest first.
The short version is uATX [aka 'Micro ATX'] and 350 watts.
Probably have suggestions for you tomorrow some time. [Might be late.]
I would like to see the old unit to find out what it's problem is.
If you look at the last word in my profile you can reach me.
[That isn't there all the time.]


Impressive profile !!!! Makes my little 24 years look like nothing - I have no stories to tell ! I was just "around" !

I saw the last word !

Okay I got some info.
Your system came with one of 3 300 watt PSUs.
Brand wise they were Bestec, Hipro, and Delta.
If you have the Bestec just get rid of it because if it isn't a problem now it will be.
Most Bestec are reworked P3 designs and they don't really regulate properly.
Hipro is much better than Bestec but not quite as good as Delta.
Both Hipro and Delta occasionally put out a dud model or occasionally resort to cheap parts when building for someone else. Gateway's order was probably 'as cheap as possible' so without being able to look at the build myself I wouldn't trust any of them.

Part Number: 6506056R300 300 Watt Bestec Power Supply uATX/BTX Non-PFC

Part Number: 6506055R300 300 Watt Hipro Power Supply uATX/BTX Non-PFC

Part Number: 6506054R300 300 Watt Delta Power Supply uATX/BTX Non-PFC

This looks like the ideal replacement. [It's 350 watts which means it won't be maxed out in your system.]
Please note: It's advertised as an SFX instead of uATX. - Don't let that throw you..
- This particular PSU will fit both SFX and uATX applications.
The biggest difference is that SFX uses 3 mounting holes and uATX uses 4.
If you look at the photos this PSU has both hole patterns.
- It's also 80+ Certified which means it uses less power.

The next best one was only 300 watts and only $3 less so I strongly recommend the one up above.


I will need to order this PSU - it may take awhile since I must wait till the first of next month when I get my military retirement check. I don't have credit cards since I filed for bankruptcy this year after the death of my 92 year old father.

I have no idea ATM what the original PSU is in this computer. I have not checked and don't know if that info is visible or if such info might come out of Everest or something like that.

Is it then your opinion that replacing the PSU "might" be the culprit of my temperature problems or is that another matter entirely?

At the present time I am sitting here with a 135 F temp on my #1 temp as reported by SpeedFan. For the past several days the actual ambient temperature has cause the temperature on the computer to drop and I have seen temperatures as low as 127 to 133 F (under minimal load). Today is a warmer day.

I will be out of town this weekend so I cannot report anything on this matter from late Friday till sometime on Sunday. After that I should be home till sometime in September.


I looked around the PSU still in the tower and found on the bottom enough to tell me it was a Delta. I had to make a few photos of the writing to be able to read it, amid some compact flash card problems (solved). I can't really read the rest of it since even with a digital SLR the photos are not that great, even with RAW format.

I made the picture with the computer standing up and myself crouched down as low as possible, almost on the floor and shooting upwards enough to make the pictures. This is a feat in itself considering my physical condition but I didn't really feel like disconnecting everything and laying the tower on the side.

I really thought I would find a bestec and was surprised when it was a Delta from what you have commented.

On closer examination I can make out something like this: DPS-300PB-3A (I don't know if that helps you any)


Another quick concern I have is that Belarc and Everest both report my hard drive as being an SCSI. This I highly doubt. It calls this drive a Drive #1 - WDC WD5000AAKS-00YGA (465 GB ) (according to Everest); WDC WD50 00AAKS-00YGA SCSI Disk Device (500.11 GB) -- drive 0 (according to Belarc).

I assume just because of the age of this computer that the drive is a SATA. But I have also heard that some PC makers even tho are using a SATA drive configure it to run in something I've heard called an "EIDE emulation mode" - is there anything to this or have I misread it or merely heard a rumor?

If such a term exists can you tell how the drive is running or does it matter for all intents and purposes?

OK. It looks like the PSU is a 300 watt. Which agrees with what I have seen people say they have in theirs.

No exactly sure what is going on with the drive.
As far as I can see, it's a SATA, but a couple of people posting their system specs in forums, have it listed as SCSI.


it's midnight but is it possible that something like Belarc, which is an older program, might not know what a SATA drive is and out of confusion call it a SATA - Belarc is no longer updated.

Just my opinion.


I mean call it an SCSi - it's late and I need sleep !!!

{scrolls up}

I was going to say that, but looks like I forgot.
A long hard day, and it's 1:30am here. I think I will also take a nap.    ; )


I will be out of town this weekend (part of Friday, all of Saturday and will probably return sometime Sunday morning).

We can continue this later.......be well !

Hi, I got busy around here [again].
DPS-300PB-3A is a correct Delta model number and I think it means my suggestion up above is a no-go.
At first look DPS-300PB-3A is a full ATX unit and the docs from Gateway I was going by said uATX which is a different physical size.
-- I'll research some more and report back.

WD5000AAKS is an okay Western Digital 500GB drive.


I was about to leave whern I got your message - I still would not have ordered the PSU till later but I am glad I took the time to check it out - even tho it took my XTi to do it.

Is my hard drive a real SATA?

I'll be back at least by Sunday afternoon.
Unlock this solution and get a sample of our free trial.
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I am back from my trip - I am confused here - you give me a URL for a Gateway PSU but you say I should not purchase that unit at $79 - so what should I buy? I would not compalin of having a PSU that had more available watts, as I think of it as a saftey factor.

As far as my old PSU, could I have just gotten a bad one to begin with and never knew it ?

Any suggestions on a new PSU and I gather from your comments it is a true standard size ATX? I noticed on the dimentions of the one you earlier suggested that the size rang bells as to what was already in the tower but I shrugged it off, thinking - oh well, etc.

I think all in all the safest thing to do is replace the PSU and hope that it will fix the problem or at least make it better. And I know one thing is that I will never buy a Gateway computer ever again !!!

I am open to suggestions here.


I am stilll waiting for a reply on what is the appropriate PSU for my computer.

A 350 - 400 Watt from:
PC Power & Cooling
Antec  (the EA380 runs about $50.00 USD)

Just compare the prices for the units at your favorite 'store'. You might catch one on sale.


I have been busy lately and not had a tme to look - I am checking on newegg and trying to make sense of it all. I'll somewhat compare the specs to the replacement PSU that was listed. I just want to be sure I get the right one with the right specs the first time around - I don't have the cash to play the musical PSU game.

I'll be in touch ina day or so.


I've not had a chance to do much research on a suitmable PSU - I'll probally have some questions on units tomorrow/

Okey Dokey


I have been busy with a few things that demanded my immediate attention. I still intend to take a closer look on newegg to see what is available and that will come closest to meeting my exact needs and to be what would connect properly to my computer. I see no need to buy, just anything, and hope that it works.

I'll be with you shortly on this after I have taken a very close and hard look and my availabilities.


Finally I am able to really sit down and study this PSU matter.

I am looking at the newegg web page.

I assume that I am looking for an ATX 12V PSU for starters ?



You need to check for:
correct 20 or 24 pin main connector
correct 4 or 8 pin AUX connector
correct 4-6-(8?) pin pci-e video connector (if needed)
SATA connectors


I've managed to find some specs on my original PSU - here is what I found & is what I'd think this PSU that I have actually comes with:

1 ATX 24 pin connector
1 4 pin for CPU
1-6 Pin PCi express video card
2 Molex
3 Sata
1 Floppy

The PSU is this size: (H X W X D) 3.3" X 5.8" X 5.5"

I don't know about rails and all this other technical stuff I see on the newegg web page. On that part I am lost. I would like to consider getting a 500 W PSU - just to be on the safe side. The original is a 300 W.

I have found and can get a reasonably priced duplicate of the PSU that I have - but considering the possible problems I already have that might be PSU related and the weak 300 w - I'd be very suspicious of putting in something that might eventually cause the same problems and too I have no earthly idea how many watts this computer really uses - I could be borderlining it and now know it.

I don't know what a Molex connector is but would I not need a connector for the DVD burner and isn't that EIDE ? The computer does not have a floppy drive (most now days don't) but I have on hand a USB floppy drive in case one is actually needed.

A rail is just what they call the different voltage lines.
There is a 3.3v rail, a 5v rail, and 1, 2, or 3 12v rails, each with a certain amount of amps they can carry.

Molex is the kind of connector shape. That's the bigger one with 4 pins (red, yellow, and 2 black) that goes to older hard drives and cd/dvd drives. Rectangle shape with 2 corners beveled.

When I was first looking for specs on your system, I saw one with almost the same model number, but it came with a 400W power supply. I didn't see any gripes about that one, just the 300W system.
A 500W power supply won't hurt anything. The system will only use what it needs.


I'll be looking some more at newegg and when I have a few items of interest I"ll let you know soon. I plan on doing this right the first time.


Still looking but I have found someone who can install the PSU for a reasonable charge - this way I'll not have to attempt it and possibly botch the job due to physical imparements.

I'll let you know when I have narrowed things down a bit !


Still looking but narrowing the field somewhat. We have had cooler temperatures here and that has let the temperature drop into below the 130 F mark. I've seen it idle at 126 at times and drop as low as 125 F. With Speedfan the "flame" temperature disappears at somewhere between 120 and 122 F. I would be satisfied to see it go even to 120 F.

The little old 1 ghz athlon that I'm on now is cold in comparison but I'd not ever expect the much newer Gateway of achieving such low temperatures simply because of the more modern technology which is inside.

Temp 1 96 F
Temp 3 107 F
Temp 3 67 (prob not connected)
HD0     93
HD1     88 F

I'll get back with you soon.


I hope to finish this by tomorrow (Saturday), as I have other things which have deleloped which require my immediate attention.


The original PSU has an 80mm fan and the smallest one I can find is 120mm. Will this pose a problem? I pretty much need to know if this will prove to be a problem before proceeding with my selection.

Shouldn't be. If anything, it will be quietier and increase airflow through the case.


Also - on further looking  - the dimensions of MY PSU is 3.3" H X 5.8" W X 5.5" D - isn't this something on the order of a micro ATX PSU and not as full sized ATX?

I am very confused and if so Newegg only has two units and looking at the user comments I would not purchase any of them (Athena).

Earlier another poster thought my PSU was a UATX but was convinced it was a full ATX - which one is correct - ATX, micro ATX or uatx?

I just put a tape measure on 4 different PSUs stripped from various systems, and they all measure the same as your PSU.
And all they say is ATX.


ok - that solves that part of the problem - now I can concentrate on the PSU that I need to buy - I'll be looking sometime this morning after I finish my 1.5 mile round trip walk to the post office that I do 6 days a week. Lost 35 pounds in a year doing that.

>> Lost 35 pounds in a year doing that.

{thumbs up}    : )


Here is what I finally come up with: (These are newegg links)

Antec Basiq BP430 430W Continuous Power ATX12V (430 Watts) (has 140mm fan) $44.95

COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power Plus RS-460-PMSR-A3 460W ATX12V $34/97
(has 80mm fan - like my old one)

TOPOWER ZU-600W 600W ATX 12V v2.01 SLI Certified $52.99
hec X-Power Pro 600 600W Continuous @ 40°C ATX12V $44.99
has 2- 80mm fans

hec HP585D RETAIL 585W ATX12V Power Supply $29.99

hec Orion XPOWER585 585W ATX12V 2.01 $34.99 (not very good ratings) (has 2 fans)

TOPOWER ZU-600W 600W ATX 12V $52.99

StarTech ATX2PW550PRO 550W ATX12V $69.99

That's about all I came up with - please take a look at what I've listed and if you see something that is not compatible with my system or is not a good PSU - please let me know !



I've also listed units which have a fan in the back of the unit (like my old one) and not in the top, which IMHO would not be of any use.

The Cool Master looks like a good choice.


It is quite similar to my old PSU (I think) & 460 W is pretty close to 500 W & should be enough power to handle this computer.

Now the only thing is to wait till my social security check comes in and get it - then work on paying for the install.


Maybe I'll get it for my birthday present (9/10) - that will be #67.

Happy Bday.   ; )


Coral - we need to close this question and I need to also hope that PCBONEZ reads this too.

Since this question is so long and complicated with questions and answers - I'd like you to (from your perspective) Give an overview/conclusion that would sum up your participation in this question.

If PCBONEZ is reading this I'd like the same conclusion from him as I have asked of you. This will end this question in a nice, neat tidy fashion and be of more  help to some poor soul who might be having the same problem.

Thanks for all your help and for your patience in this saga. You are certainly a trooper !!!! thanks again :-)
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Thanks for the conclusion and now I'll see if I get the same from PCBONEZ, if not I'll use the multiple solution approach for his solution/points.

I'll give it a few days.

BTW - another problem cropped up with my oldest comp - got another question in called "Boot Failure (old comp) Dual boot XP Prof". I think the poor comp has croaked. This makes my problems with this Gateway insignificant. Oh well ...........


Thanks for the help - it's been a long one but fruitful - thanks for the effort guys :-)

Thank you much.    : )


Coral - I messed up on the boot problem and looks like you didn't get any points - it was early in the morning and not feeling very well. I had it all laid out on paper and then looks like I messed it up - I'm very sorry !!!

Not a problem, They did the "heavy lifting".     ; )


Well - still hate that I messed it up - I don't think very well until I have had at least one cup of coffee (20 ounces).

The boot question wasn't working out - so I terminated it - I'll be working on it on my own.

>> don't think very well until I have had at least one cup of coffee (20 ounces).

wow. It's like I'm dealing with me. A 20oz cup is the only way to go.   : )
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