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Power Supply moved from 110 to 220


I brought my custom-built workstation from the US to Europe. Before switching the power supply from 110 to 220, I plugged it in (I didn't notice the PS was turned on). Sure enough, one burst of power and then... silence.

The power supply is a ULT-500P, made by Ultra Products, 500watt ATX.

Here's the questions of the day:
1. Is there a fuse in the PS that can be replaced in order to make it work?
2. What got fried: a fuse, the whole PS, or the PS / MoBo / proc / everything? How can I determine that (before buying a brand new PS just to discover it's useless)?
3. Have not been able to find a PDF manual for  ULT-500P. UltraProducts.com tech support and website have been useless so far. Can anybody point to an online manual for this product?

Thanks, guys, Happy Holidays
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Ronino
Asked:
Ronino
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3 Solutions
 
giltjrCommented:
Most PS do have a fuse, so you can open it up and see if there is a fuse and if it is blown.  Typically the fuse in PS will blow, the PS job is to convert the AC to DC, so more than likely nothing past the PS got hurt.
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RoninoAuthor Commented:
Thanks! Found a fuse, typical size (less than one inch long)

looks exactly like this http://bit.ly/6B4VZJ 

only info typed on fuse: "T8H250V".

Will look for one in hardware stores. Any clues / leads are welcome.
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RoninoAuthor Commented:
p.s. Fuse is still white. Is it not supposed to get dark / black if it is fried?
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giltjrCommented:
Not sure, it almost looks like it a ceramic fuse.  If it is, it should crack and turn black.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?  As the fuse should provide little to no resistance you could use the ohm meter to see if its still good or no.
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RoninoAuthor Commented:
Don't have a volt meter, will seek one tomorrow (or try another fuse if I can get one)

not black, not cracked unfortunately
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nobusCommented:
it sounds to me like an 8A fuse.
if it was blown with such an overload , it would be black, so i suppose it did not blow.

Here my troubleshooting procedure :
Precautions :
-During connecting or disconnecting devices, be sure to have the AC removed
-Temporarily ground yourself, or use a wrist strap for ESD prevention

-With a new motherboard : verify if all mounting standoffs correspond with the holes in the mobo !!
   Or test the motherboard outside the case, on a wooden  (non conductive) surface
-Clean the system from dust, then  test with the minimum setup - disconnect also all peripherals and network cables :
-What to connect :  only  motherboard + CPU + 1 ram stick, video card, power supply
-Verify that the 4-, 6- or 8-pin CPU Aux power plug is connected
-Verify that the VIDEO card has a power connecter - if yes, connect the power to it !
Now power on  your PC : on boot, do you have a display?
-if NO it is one of the connected: RAM, Power supply , video card or monitor, so if possible swap ram, Power supply, video card or monitor - leaving only motherboard and cpu
-if YES, connect devices till the problem shows
*** note : if the fans are running, this shows there is 12 V present from the Power Supply; this does not mean the PS is ok, you still need 3.3 V and +5 V as well; and other signals.
Additional tests and things to try :
-boot without ram, it should beep; (also, without video card)
-try bios default settings, (if possible) or clear the bios by removing AC and bios battery
-renew the CPU heatpaste, and verify that the heatsink is mounted flat on the CPU, allowing for a good thermal contact
-you can also check the motherboard for bad capacitors as shown here :   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

The term POST refers to the Power On Self Test  procedure - here a link  with a short explanation  http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtml
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PCBONEZCommented:
The outer casing on the fuse is ceramic instead of glass.
The ceramic isn't going to turn black from that tiny wire melting any more than the glass would melt in the other type fuse.
-
Regardless if the fuse is blown or not, you've probably burned out either or both of the first stage rectifier or the switching transistors.
.
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RoninoAuthor Commented:
Not having all tools / spare parts required, I have decided to fit the rig with a new PS. Got a 500w and it seems to work.

If fuse is ceramic, that would explain why it didn't crack / burn? Obviously MoBo is not fried, so fuse and/or transistors must be dead.

Only problem with new PS: occasionally, when I press the power button on the PC, it does not power on. I have to unplug the power cord, wait 3 secs., then plug it back in, then it powers on.

All plugs and wires that were connected to the previous PS are connected to the new one. Doesn't seem to be a faulty power switch. Any leads?
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PCBONEZCommented:
Was this a -new- PSU or a -different- PSU?

The problem you describe is typical of problems in the +5vsb rail.
Usually the problem is in the PSU but it could be on the motherboard. [Just less common.]
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nobusCommented:
can you start it by shorting for a moment the Power-on pins on the mobo ?
that would eliminate the switch
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RoninoAuthor Commented:

A brand new, slightly different model PSU.

+5vsb rail ? not sure which one is that, and what I could do about it.

Not sure I'm that confident shorting the pins on the MoBo... there several coming from the switch, and I don't know which 2 of them send the START signal. Also, the switch was working fine before the PSU 110-220 adventure. If everything else works, isn't it unlikely that only the switch fried?

Thanks
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nobusCommented:
they are labeled PWR or PWR-ON on the connector AND the motherboard
Verify in your manual if not sure !
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PCBONEZCommented:
When you push the button on the front of the computer all it does is short two pins on the motherboard together.
It's a 'normally open' 'momentary contact' switch.

The pins should be identified in the motherboard manual.

+5vsb is the power sent to the board when the system is in soft-off or standby.
+5vsb is present any time the PSU has AC power.
- There is no way to turn it off except by removing AC power from the PSU.
[That's why you unplug or use the switch on the back of the PSU to turn it off before working inside the case.]
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