Wiring Patch Panels and BreakOut Boxes/Wall Boxes

Can you perhaps assist with a method for the break out boxes and patch panel connection please?
Does one use a Kroner tool. Are there any shortcuts?
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Fred MarshallPrincipalCommented:
You put this in a network zone so I'll assume that this is Ethernet, yes?

I don't think there is such a thing as a breakout box for Ethernet.  It's not like telephone.  You "break out" using a hub or, more normally today, a switch.  

Patch panels:  Normally a 110 blade.  
Take a look at:

That said, I don't particularly like the style of panel bracket shown in the first video.  I've used them and they seem really handy.  The problem I've had with them is that the panel, once populated with cables, seems to want to pop out of the plastic catches.  They don't have enough lateral force to stay latched.  So, I rather opt for the type that's hinged at one end of a small rack type mount.

Then of course, the patch panel interfaces with RJ-45-terminated patch cables.  
The idea is that the permanent building wiring is punched down into the panel and the movable and throw-away patch cables connect between them or from them to equipment in the room.

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Ernie BeekExpertCommented:
So you want to wire the backside of the patchpanel, the 'in the wall' cabling?
The ones I worked with had the rear sides of the connectors marked with the correct colors so you just have to put the strains on the corresponding color and secure them with the punchdown (Krone) tool. Have a close look. with a bit of luck yours are marked as well.
Many 'keystone' jacks don't even require a #110 punchdown tool. The prepared wires just lay in the slots and there's another part that either levers down, or snaps on, which then pushes the wires through the insulation cutters and holds them in contact with the terminals.

1) Strip off an inch or so of the jacket - enough to get a grip on the fiber strand inside.
2) Use that strand to zip open another couple inches of insulation and trim off the jacket all the way around with a pair of scissors (that ensures there are no nicks in any of the wires as there could be where the outside jacket was first cut off)... I use Klein Tools 2100-8 scissors; your mileage may vary.
3) Align the pairs where they need to be, trim to length (trim at least enough to get past where the original strip began, in step 1)... depending on the termination style, each pair may need to be a different length. The scissors work great for trimming to length, too.
4) Untwist and straighten only enough of each pair to insert the wires into the terminations - definitely no more than 1/2" (12mm).
5) Terminate (punchdown, clamp, et cetera).
6) Test & certify.

For RJ-45 plugs, steps 3 and 4 would be 'kind of' switched, where you would untwist and straighten the wires, flopping the blue pair in the middle of the green or orange pair (depending if you're following 568B or 568A, respectively), then trim the wires straight across so the longest untwisted part is no more than 1/2" (12mm) long.
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Fred MarshallPrincipalCommented:
Right, you want to wire the backside of the patch panel to the "in the wall" cabling so that you have a totally permanent installation from end to end.  Patch cables are deemed "sacrificial" / "throw away".  So, having a cable coming out of the wall and terminated with an RJ-45 plug isn't best practice as it turns a "permanent" cable into one that is:
a) not fastened down
b) subject to movement, wear and damage
c) harder or impossible to replace (what if flexing causes wires to break right where it enters the wall?).
At the other end of those "in the wall" cables one would expect to see wired jacks in the wall.
shaunwinginAuthor Commented:
Tx to you all.
Can one use a Krone Tool instead of a 110 blade to punch into the patch panel?
Ernie BeekExpertCommented:
To accommodate different connector types, 66, 110, BIX and krone require different blades.

Have a look at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punch_down_tool
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