Why does my Buick regal only have 1st gear
Kind of a long shot for an expert question, but about 6 years ago, I had somebody build the transmission in my 1987 Buick Grand National. He was supposed to performance parts in it. I know a little bit about engines but nothing about transmissions. The car sits all year and I take it out a few times a year.
The vehicle won't shift out of first. I first noticed it not wanting to shift under heavy acceleration but eventually it would. Now nothing. I noticed transmission fluid on the ground in droplets but it has plenty of fluid. What are the simple solutions I can start with? I don't race the car so it can't be worn out unless he sitting every year does it.
Thanks,
Art
The vehicle won't shift out of first. I first noticed it not wanting to shift under heavy acceleration but eventually it would. Now nothing. I noticed transmission fluid on the ground in droplets but it has plenty of fluid. What are the simple solutions I can start with? I don't race the car so it can't be worn out unless he sitting every year does it.
Thanks,
Art
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It's been decades since I was at a drag strip, and that was here in the UK, but back then line lock was a term used to describe locking the front brakes on while leaving the rear ones disengaged, to facilitate smoking the rear tyres without having the car run away. I wasn't aware that it was ever used here to release the car at the greens - the chance of creep breaking the beams and pulling a red was too high.
A noticeable deterioration in the performance and/or reliability of any system or component immediately post-repair is a warning sign that really shouldn't be ignored - things are supposed to be better after a repair, not worse! The term "not worse, just different" applied to such problems by the repairer is an all-too-common form of whitewash used to cover over a multitude of sins, none of them the customer's...
A noticeable deterioration in the performance and/or reliability of any system or component immediately post-repair is a warning sign that really shouldn't be ignored - things are supposed to be better after a repair, not worse! The term "not worse, just different" applied to such problems by the repairer is an all-too-common form of whitewash used to cover over a multitude of sins, none of them the customer's...
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ASKER
Perarduaadastra,
I miss spoke. It does have a line lock that locks the front brakes to heat up the rear tires. I meant to say a Transbrake, a fabricated thing that eliminates the Drive to hold the car at the line under boost. You slap it forward into overdrive to launch the car. It has a lock to keep it from going all the way into reverse. Never tried it. Too afraid.
Michael-Best,
Good suggestion to change the fluid and to look for leaks. That is something my local mechanic can do until I locate someone to diagnose the problem. The GN is notorious for leaks from everything, but it is 25 years old, eligible for a historic registration plate. Since I am done going fast, that's all I want. Thank you for the suggestions. I understand that's about all can be expected for this situation.
I miss spoke. It does have a line lock that locks the front brakes to heat up the rear tires. I meant to say a Transbrake, a fabricated thing that eliminates the Drive to hold the car at the line under boost. You slap it forward into overdrive to launch the car. It has a lock to keep it from going all the way into reverse. Never tried it. Too afraid.
Michael-Best,
Good suggestion to change the fluid and to look for leaks. That is something my local mechanic can do until I locate someone to diagnose the problem. The GN is notorious for leaks from everything, but it is 25 years old, eligible for a historic registration plate. Since I am done going fast, that's all I want. Thank you for the suggestions. I understand that's about all can be expected for this situation.
Glad to help...wish I could be under the car to see where the leaks are...or better still driving it...
Good luck with finding good results.
Good luck with finding good results.
ASKER
I wish I could remember what performance parts where used. It wasn't that long ago but for as much a I drive it, it seems that way. If I remember correctly, the mechanic. (No longer in business of course) said he would strengthen the bands to make it shift solid. It would not shift when I took it to him for repair. To add to the complication, it had a "shift kit" that used check balls if I remember and a "Line lock" that used the D (drive) to hold the transmission at the light at the drag strip. It was used to launch the car during races at the track. I know this doesn't add much normalcy to the original question but that part was installed before I took it to this mechanic. I did take it to the track after the repair and it never did not shift at WOT but it did shift normal driving. Decided to raise a family and never raced it again. Now at my old age, I have an old car I just want to drive around and it's stuck in 1st and I'm just old!
I know, of course the best answer is your last suggestion is to take it to a reputable company for repair. just seems that if it is a part that has failed, it would not have failed due to wear and tear since I never used the car much. My very, very novice opinion of course hoping for a novice answer like a plug unplugged or something else very simple. Believe it or not, I built the engine in this car with instructions from a friend over the telephone. Took forever, but it was a learning process with more mistakes you can imagine!
I'm in the process of finding the old invoice of the repair to see exactly what was done.
The leak was just a handful of drops on the ground just after I discovered it wouldn't shift. Couldn't find the leak and haven't seen any on the ground since. It always seemed like it would take a long time to shift since the repair. Sometimes wouldn't shift at all driving through the subdivision. I'll jack the car up and see if there is anything obvious on the outside. If not, I'll go with your suggestion and find a good mechanic...this time.
Thank you
Art