New power supply, but computer still shuts down

Please refer to my previous question for reference:

http://www.experts-exchange.com/Hardware/Desktops/Q_28244697.html

I closed the other question because I was sure that this was a power supply issue.  I bought a brand new GS 800 Corsair Power supply (800W), turned on my computer, it booted half way into Win 7 and then shut off completely.  I went back to check garycase's answer on my previous question "Boot to the BIOS and just let it sit for a bit -- does it shut down then?" when I did this with my newly installed PS, within 30 seconds to a minute it shut down completely again.  Stone cold dead! What do I do now?? I just spent good money and the problem is still here.  I'm really frustrated!
ArtG2521Asked:
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_Commented:
hmmmm... I would check thermal issues next.
 
But first, unplug/disconnect everything but the cpu, 1 stick of ram, and the video. Does it still shut down?
Did you Clear the CMOS to set the system back to Default?

If yes, then on to
- is the water block still sitting on the cpu properly?
- is the paste dried out?
- has the water block got "crud/sediment" in it so it is not taking away the heat? Is the coolant flowing?
- is the North Bridge heat sink getting hot? What about the VRM? Anything else?
- any bulging/leaking caps?

Can you try the cpu in a different motherboard? It might be getting flaky.
Test the ram in a different system.
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CharlesSenior Software EngineerCommented:
Hope the processor fan not seated well or not running, Just take it out and clean the fan(If dust present) and then re-fix it , It must be seated fit, Check now your system will be ok

Due to processor heat only system will shut down automatically.
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Darr247Commented:
I recommend Dow Corning 340 as replacement heat-sink compound.  Clean all the old off with a plastic scraper (like the edge of a credit card) and 99% isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel. Trowel on the new into an even coat with the same plastic scraper/card to a thickness of 1mm to 1.5mm (~1/16'') thick.  I bought one of the 140gram tubes close to 20 years ago and I've done/redone literally dozens of CPUs with it... that 2oz jar should easily do 10 times as many CPUs as a 3.5g bottle of Arctic Silver.
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nobusCommented:
another thing to try is reduce it to a minimal setup, as described in my article; this will eliminate many devices : http://www.experts-exchange.com/Hardware/Components/Motherboards/A_1945.html                  (Short-overview-of-how-to-troubleshoot-bad-hardware-when-a-pc-does-not-post)

in case the disk has problems, use this guide :
http://www.experts-exchange.com/Storage/Hard_Drives/A_3000-The-bad-hard-disk-problem.html
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ArtG2521Author Commented:
I have a Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 MoBo.

How do you clear the CMOS? Heat issues are possible for sure.  I turn it on and it beeps once like normal, I hit the DEL key to send it into the CMOS Setup Utility screen.  I let it sit there and within one minute or so it shuts down.

I am going to try some of the things you all suggested and let you know.
 
I am not quite experienced enough to start taking things off the CPU, etc. so I may have to take it to a PC repair store.  If I do I will print out ALL these comments/suggestions for them.
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nobusCommented:
that does look like overheating.
i would remove the cooler and check it completly; renew the heatpaste , and test again
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ArtG2521Author Commented:
I think this may be a MoBo issue or CPU, not sure yet, but I felt all the around the CPU and detect little to no heat.  As mentioned before, I have a water cooled system and 5 fans cooling the rig.  The other reason I suspect the mobo is that since the system shuts itself down in under 60 seconds, it doesn't have much time to heat up.  I am going to troubleshoot the RAM as well, but it seems to be mobo or possibly still something with heat, but I have my doubts about this.  If it is mobo issues, can you suggest moderate to higher end mobos for me to start looking at for purchase? I tend to prefer Gigabyte.  If it's CPU, can you suggest CPUs as well.  Moderately priced CPUs, I don't need the latest and greatest, can't afford that.  My present CPU is 2.5 years old and is a AMD Phenom II X4  955  3.2GHZ (quad-core).
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_Commented:
Motherboard is a possibility. But checking the paste and water block contact is the easiest
And since the water block needs to come off anyway for the next test, might as well do it first.   ; )

>> ...it doesn't have much time to heat up.

It doesn't take much time if it is a problem with cpu to heatsink contact issue. The cpu has it's own internal "heat sensor" and will shut the system down if it gets past a certain point, to help keep from frying the cpu.

I have to head out in a few minutes, and won't be back until late afternoon.
But hopefully one of the other guys can post the Clear CMOS and replacement parts info before that.
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ArtG2521Author Commented:
Hey everyone, but especially coral47, I took my high intensity small flashlight to really probe around the CPU and liquid cooler.  Look what I found (see attached pic).  I don't know how, but the bottom part of the 4 screw mount of the water cooler on top of the CPU broke off.  This lifted the unit off the CPU so it was no longer in contact with the CPU.  Essentially, there was NO heat sink on the CPU.  I assume that is why the CPU heated up so quickly and the system shut down.  The oil/coolant started to leak out as you can see at the base of the cooler and on the napkin I have it on.  A tiny amount of the coolant leaked onto the mobo, but doesn't seem to have harmed it.  It was an Xtreme Gear 120mm watercooler system.  The end you see in the picture is hooked up to a radiator with two tubes.  This is fastened to the large fan at the rear of the case.  Do I have to replace the entire system or can I just replace the CPU end of the cooler?  Which water cooler system do you people like?  Moderately priced, if possible.

 WC Broke
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ArtG2521Author Commented:
I think I found a new cooling system at a good price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181033

What do you think?
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nobusCommented:
>>  or can I just replace the CPU end of the cooler  << if you can find it separately - but i doubt that.
any reason you need a water cooled system?  i have never needed one ..
then you can use a stock heatsink + fan
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Darr247Commented:
The substance on the bottom of the CPU cooler is (or was) the heat transfer medium between the CPU and the heatsink. Like the Dow Corning 340 paste (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CB2K3LG) I linked to in http:#a39511058, or possibly Arctic Silver. I don't see any leaking coolant... more likely it's separated emulsion from the heat transfer paste.

I do not find good reviews of the XTREME GEAR 120MM FA-WATER-401 kit (if that's what you have)... mostly complaints about them failing.

As nobus points out, a stock heatsink and fan will cool all but extremely overclocked CPUs just fine... the main benefit of liquid cooling is supposed to be less fan noise (there are even fanless units that mount the radiator outside the case).

If you have room over the CPU, here's a good aftermarket heatsink+fan combo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186066

If you decide to stay with liquid, I suggest something like the Corsair CWCH60

Both options are comparably priced, so it's really a toss up which way to go.
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ArtG2521Author Commented:
Ordered the new water cooling system, but NOT from Xtreme.  I went with Zalman.
Thanks, everyone!
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nobusCommented:
i have used some Zalman coolers, and was satisfied
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_Commented:
I see you got it sorted while I was away. Nicely done.  

Thank you for the update and the Points.    : )
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