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ross13Flag for United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

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Brake imbalance help!

Hi,

My dad has a hyundai lantra 1998. It failed its mot due to a brake imbalance. I was told that it was the rear left wheel(NS rear).
I had a look at the car for my dad and tried to bleed the cylinder at the back before I started and got hardly any fluid out and a lot of air. I stopped and removed the drum.
The adjuster was frozen and the cylinder was leaking and the springs looked a bit rusty.

I replaced the brake cylinder, the springs and cleaned up the adjuster and all looked good. I then started to bleed the brakes and it took a while before I got any flow of fluid. I was using a hand held bleeder with a pressure gauge. I spent about half an hour trying to bleed the cylinder and the flow was not very good from this wheel? I started bleeding the other rear wheel and it was easy bleeding this wheel, hardly any effort and a good flow and not really dropping or requiring many pumps with the hand bleeder compared to the wheel with the issue mentioned.

Still convinced something is not correct I put my foot on the foot brake and the brake pedal is solid. It's not soft and it does not move to the floor. I took the car for a test drive and the car seemed to brake ok.

I wanted to check that the brakes were ok before it went back into the mot station for the re-test after the work I done. And the local garage I took it to said that I have a brake imbalance on the car.

I have attached the sheet to this question and any advise would be appreciated to what else it could be? As I said it was difficult getting a good flow of fluid from that wheel.

The car does not seem to be loosing any brake fluid?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Regards,

Ross
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Started bleed for wheel with issue which is ns rear(furthest from master cylinder). Pumped the brakes a few times with engine off and the pedal stays solid and did not fluctuate.
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I can give this a go tomorrow. I just wanted to o check my understanding. If I put the car up on a set of axle stands. Put the car in reverse and run at about 5mph and brake and get someone to watch both rear wheels.
The wheel that stops last I should then move the adjuster on to move the pads closer to the drum and repeat the process until both wheels stop at the same time.
That sounds like a good idea. I can give it a try.

My only other thought was the flexible hose as I was having trouble bleeding that wheel?

Cheers,

Ross
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...but having a helper pump the brakes for you...

+1 on that.  That is my preferred method if you have someone to help out.
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Michael Best
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Thanks guys. I took the car to a local garage thinking something war really wrong but they said the flare /cylinder etc looked good. It was just not 100% adjusted correct between the two wheels.

Thanks again.