how can I replace the bulbs of a mounted outside security light?
Hello and Good Afternoon Everyone,
I have an outside security light which no longer works. Whenever I flip the inside light switch on, I do here a click like noise which was also noticed when it was working. Given this information, I believe the switch itself is responding by supplying current to the outside security light which leads me to believe the bulbs likely need replaced. The outside security light has a component which functions like a motion sensor and automatically turns on the lights whenever someone approaches close to the door. At any rate, if someone could provide some shared thoughts, links, tips, or perhaps multimedia video clips for the maintenane of an outside security light system, it will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
George
I have an outside security light which no longer works. Whenever I flip the inside light switch on, I do here a click like noise which was also noticed when it was working. Given this information, I believe the switch itself is responding by supplying current to the outside security light which leads me to believe the bulbs likely need replaced. The outside security light has a component which functions like a motion sensor and automatically turns on the lights whenever someone approaches close to the door. At any rate, if someone could provide some shared thoughts, links, tips, or perhaps multimedia video clips for the maintenane of an outside security light system, it will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
George
SOLUTION
membership
This solution is only available to members.
To access this solution, you must be a member of Experts Exchange.
From code point of view the lamps seems as in the up-left from next file:
http://www.green-lighting.net/green/Greenlighting01.pdf
Could you tell if the both lamps are somehow connected together, physically and the motion is separately as here:
http://www.amazon.com/All-Pro-TMQ150-Quartz-Halogen-Bronze/dp/B0009IUYQI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z
or the motion sensor is attached the the system as here:
http://www.amazon.com/Heath-Zenith-SL-5512-BZ-300-Watt-Motion-Sensing/dp/B000OUX9W2
http://www.green-lighting.net/green/Greenlighting01.pdf
Could you tell if the both lamps are somehow connected together, physically and the motion is separately as here:
http://www.amazon.com/All-Pro-TMQ150-Quartz-Halogen-Bronze/dp/B0009IUYQI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z
or the motion sensor is attached the the system as here:
http://www.amazon.com/Heath-Zenith-SL-5512-BZ-300-Watt-Motion-Sensing/dp/B000OUX9W2
SOLUTION
membership
This solution is only available to members.
To access this solution, you must be a member of Experts Exchange.
ASKER
Hello and Good Evening Everyone,
As best as I can tell, the unit I have is like the one in the link http://www.amazon.com/Heath-Zenith-SL-5512-BZ-300-Watt-Motion-Sensing/dp/B000OUX9W2. Are the bulbs fairly easy to remove and install new ones?
George
As best as I can tell, the unit I have is like the one in the link http://www.amazon.com/Heath-Zenith-SL-5512-BZ-300-Watt-Motion-Sensing/dp/B000OUX9W2. Are the bulbs fairly easy to remove and install new ones?
George
ASKER CERTIFIED SOLUTION
membership
This solution is only available to members.
To access this solution, you must be a member of Experts Exchange.
here some examples of the LED version - they use much less power : http://www.homedepot.com/b/Lighting-Ceiling-Fans-Outdoor-Lighting-Outdoor-Security-Lighting/N-5yc1vZc7qf
best repalce the whole system, not only the led light
best repalce the whole system, not only the led light
SOLUTION
membership
This solution is only available to members.
To access this solution, you must be a member of Experts Exchange.
ASKER
Hello and Good Evening Everyone,
Thanks so much for the detailed and insightful feedback given in response to my question. After careful consideration centering around safety protocol, I have decided to let an electrician take care of this concern in addition to the possible replacement of the switches. Now, I am not exactly saying that I can not fix this problem by following the instructions given. Time after time in the past I have been able to resolve rather technical issues by simply following the instructions given by EE experts with more experience, knowledge, and skills as compared to that of my own.
This situation is different though because of the higher risk of danger surrounding the fiddling involved with electrical wiring. Given this circumstance, I would rather let someone of professional caliber handle this situation so I can live and fight another battle for another day.
Thanks so much once again everyone for sharing your insights with me. As always, I walked away knowing I acquired more knowledge about my concern no matter how big or small it may be.
George
Thanks so much for the detailed and insightful feedback given in response to my question. After careful consideration centering around safety protocol, I have decided to let an electrician take care of this concern in addition to the possible replacement of the switches. Now, I am not exactly saying that I can not fix this problem by following the instructions given. Time after time in the past I have been able to resolve rather technical issues by simply following the instructions given by EE experts with more experience, knowledge, and skills as compared to that of my own.
This situation is different though because of the higher risk of danger surrounding the fiddling involved with electrical wiring. Given this circumstance, I would rather let someone of professional caliber handle this situation so I can live and fight another battle for another day.
Thanks so much once again everyone for sharing your insights with me. As always, I walked away knowing I acquired more knowledge about my concern no matter how big or small it may be.
George
Thank you George. I think you have probably made the right decision.
Although connecting a new light to existing wiring is actually a piece of cake if you have the right screwdriver, observe the polarity of the wires and connections, and make sure the bare wire ends are firmly secured, there are other considerations for an electrical device that is located outside. Things will differ between my UK regulations and the American electrician's "code", but in general an outside light or socket should be wired through its own breaker/trip fuse of the correct rating and it should have a Residual Current Device (RCD) which bleeds off power very quickly when the device is grounded e.g. someone touches the bare wires or water leaks in and shorts it out.
The cable from the house to the light should have a loop left in it so that water cannot run along or down the cable into the compartment containing the connections, and the cable needs to be weatherproof. The housing of a lamp with a halogen bulb gets very hot, so the light housing shouldn't be placed too close to flammable material, such as the soffit board if it is up under the eaves of the house.
Although your 110/120 volt 60 Hz mains supply is generally less dangerous than our UK 230/240 volt 50Hz supply, it can still stop your heart, burn your hand, and make you fly backwards off the ladder.
The main consideration is if something goes wrong with a self-installed electrical device and it causes a fire that affects your property and that of others. You would be liable and insurance wouldn't cover you if it was fitted wrongly, or if this is one of the jobs that the state or country's electrical safety standards department determines to be a professional job. There are some jobs that don't have to be professionally done, or inspected by a qualified electrician, but I suspect that outside lights may be one area that is a "pro" job. Additionally, if you sell your house and a survey deems the fixture to be non-compliant, you would have to have it corrected before sale.
Although connecting a new light to existing wiring is actually a piece of cake if you have the right screwdriver, observe the polarity of the wires and connections, and make sure the bare wire ends are firmly secured, there are other considerations for an electrical device that is located outside. Things will differ between my UK regulations and the American electrician's "code", but in general an outside light or socket should be wired through its own breaker/trip fuse of the correct rating and it should have a Residual Current Device (RCD) which bleeds off power very quickly when the device is grounded e.g. someone touches the bare wires or water leaks in and shorts it out.
The cable from the house to the light should have a loop left in it so that water cannot run along or down the cable into the compartment containing the connections, and the cable needs to be weatherproof. The housing of a lamp with a halogen bulb gets very hot, so the light housing shouldn't be placed too close to flammable material, such as the soffit board if it is up under the eaves of the house.
Although your 110/120 volt 60 Hz mains supply is generally less dangerous than our UK 230/240 volt 50Hz supply, it can still stop your heart, burn your hand, and make you fly backwards off the ladder.
The main consideration is if something goes wrong with a self-installed electrical device and it causes a fire that affects your property and that of others. You would be liable and insurance wouldn't cover you if it was fitted wrongly, or if this is one of the jobs that the state or country's electrical safety standards department determines to be a professional job. There are some jobs that don't have to be professionally done, or inspected by a qualified electrician, but I suspect that outside lights may be one area that is a "pro" job. Additionally, if you sell your house and a survey deems the fixture to be non-compliant, you would have to have it corrected before sale.
ASKER
Hello and Good Afternoon Everyone,
Even though this post has been closed, I do want to take a moment and provide an update. I did have an electrician come over about a week or so ago to test the connectors for the halogen bulbs using a non-contact voltage tester. He did find that the on/off switch in addition to the internal conectors holding the halogen bulbs to be fine and producing voltage. When he removed the defected halogen bulbs (one cracked and one blackened at one end), he gave those to me. I went to Walmart and bought the exact halogen bulbs needed to replace the defected ones. While the internal switch was turned off, I went and ahead and installed them in order to gain some degree of technical experience. When installing the halogen bulbs, the electrician recommended to not touch them with the skin. To adhere to this advise, I simply put on some latex gloves and installed the halogen bulbs. Once installed, I simply resecured the cover on each light using a phillip heads screwdriver and turned the internal light switch back on.
Thanks again everyone for your insights shared to this post.
George
Even though this post has been closed, I do want to take a moment and provide an update. I did have an electrician come over about a week or so ago to test the connectors for the halogen bulbs using a non-contact voltage tester. He did find that the on/off switch in addition to the internal conectors holding the halogen bulbs to be fine and producing voltage. When he removed the defected halogen bulbs (one cracked and one blackened at one end), he gave those to me. I went to Walmart and bought the exact halogen bulbs needed to replace the defected ones. While the internal switch was turned off, I went and ahead and installed them in order to gain some degree of technical experience. When installing the halogen bulbs, the electrician recommended to not touch them with the skin. To adhere to this advise, I simply put on some latex gloves and installed the halogen bulbs. Once installed, I simply resecured the cover on each light using a phillip heads screwdriver and turned the internal light switch back on.
Thanks again everyone for your insights shared to this post.
George
Thanks for the feedback George. I'm glad you have the light working again and that you can now be confident that the wiring and switch are in good order.
ASKER
This outside security light has been here for a few years. It was installed by its previous owner and I do not have any documentation with it. I did however go outside to record any information which might can be used to address this question. Unfortunately, a manufacturer of this light could not be obtained. There are two different numbers QH-150 and CL-020117 which might possibly be used to ID the unit. It does not look very complicated because it only has two lights and a sensor located at the bottom between the left and right lights.
In closing, I am sorry for my inability to find additional information. Hopefully, the codes provided will give a hint about the technical specifications of this outside security light.
Thanks
George