Replaced Harddrive with SSD and now computer freezes up after a few minutes

First, I just have to say I am at my wit's end.  It seems like the computer gods have put a curse on my computers for the last 4 years  (See my previous questions from the last 4 years for the depressing details).
Anyway, on to my most current problem.  A few weeks ago I had a new computer rebuilt to spec and it was working fine.
Although at one point we lost power and somehow I lost or corrupted my boot sector.  When I tried to rebuild the MRB, for some reason it rebuilt it on my D: drive (the non-system drive I use for data files), and found out I couldn't boot my computer without having both drives connected.   I finally figured out how to fix that and got the MRB onto the correct drive.

I recently posted another question here and it was recommended that I replace my current C: drive with a SSD.  I had one in my old computer, but it got fried because of a faulty power supply.   So yesterday I purchased a SSD drive and used Acronis to clone the current system drive to the new one.

Problem 1:  After about 5 minutes the system slows down to the point where everything freezes.  No matter what I'm doing, whether it's video editing, music production or even just browsing the Internet.  The program will slow down, and then become totally unresponsive.  For a brief time, I'm able to click on something else, but then I can't do anything.
I can't even get to the task manager to close the programs, and can't shut the computer down properly.  The only thing I can do is turn the power switch off.  Which leads to...

Problem 2:  I've been getting Windows messages from the Action Center telling me it found errors in the drive.  And as it happened before, when I click on the suggestion options to fix the errors, it doesn't work.  Again, I think the boot sector is becoming corrupt and needs to be repaired whenever the computer shuts downs improperly.  But if I try to fix this problem by the suggested methods, I believe the boot sector is being written to the D; Drive.  So I have to reboot to the dos prompt (using a Windows rescue disk) and tell the computer to rewrite the boot sector in the C; Drive.

But for now, my biggest concern and issue is this freezing up problem that won't allow me to use the computer at all.
(I'm writing this on my laptop)

Here are my specs:
CPU: AMD FX-8320 3.50 GHz (8 Core Processor)
Motherboard: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5
RAM: Corsair 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 PC3-12800
AUDIO: Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 (USB connection)
Rosewill Lightning-800W ATX Power Supply
Windows 8.1 64-bit
C: Drive (system) Crucial SSD MX100 512GB,   D: Drive (data) Seagate HD (not SSD) D drive=1TB

As I mentioned, the Crucial SSD is brand new.  The D Drive is about 4 or 5 years old and contains all my audio and graphics files for programs like Cakewalk Sonar, Kontakt, Sony Vegas, DAZ Studio 3D.

I never had a problem with this exact configuration of drives before in my old computer, so I'm wondering what has changed, or if I did something wrong while installing the new SSD, or if it's just a bad drive?
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Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
I had a look at your recent question history, and have basically one suggestion:  Patience !!

You recently bought a new computer to replace a BETTER ONE that you already had that was apparently less than a year old.    The Core i7 system you had scored over 12000 on PassMark ... you replaced it with a lower-quality AMD CPU that only has 2/3rd of the "horsepower" ... and an ever lower "horsepower/Core".    I know you had issues with that Core i7, but reading through that thread I think it was almost certainly a case of unstable power.     Could have been the PSU or the voltage regulation on the motherboard -- but I'd have certainly replaced the power supply before buying an entirely new system (unless there's more to that story that's not shown in your threads).

... The new system also had issues, including a poorly installed heatsink that blocked your memory modules from being installed correctly -- a problem you've apparently fixed now.    But at this point all these issues are water over the dam ... so let's look at the problem you're having now ...

I suspect that Windows was either not correctly installed on the combination of drives you had ... or in the process of cloning it to the new SSD something wasn't done correctly.

It's possible -- but NOT likely -- that your MX100 is bad, but the Crucial drives are VERY reliable and I doubt that's the issue.

What I'd do at this point:   Assuming you have the install media for Windows, I would (a) disconnect the 2nd hard drive so the only drive connected is the new SSD;  (b)  boot to the install DVD and do a completely new install of Windows -- choose Custom install; DELETE all current partitions on the hard drive (SSD); and then (c) once the install completes, do all of the updates; confirm all is well; and then make an IMAGE of the installed and activated OS.    NOW you can connect the 2nd hard drive and assign it whatever letter you're accustomed to.

One other important thought:  r.e. "... Although at one point we lost power ..." ==>  EVERY system should have a UPS.   Eliminating unplanned power outages significantly improves the overall reliability of your systems.    Get a good UPS with AVR ... preferably with a true Sine Wave output to ensure there are no interaction issues with modern Active PFC power supplies.    This is a good choice:   [The 600w version is a bit less and should also be fine for your system.]

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Leee211Author Commented:
Thanks Gary, I was kind of holding out to reinstalling Windows as a last resort.  Because if I'm not mistaken, it will format the hard drive and I'll have to reinstall all of my software, which is not only time consuming but with many programs I have to go through the process of reauthorizing the software.  And I've changed computers and components so many times in the last few years, some of the programs have reached their four time reinstall limit, especially many of the audio and video plugins I have.  For those, I would have to call the software companies and explain why I have so many installs. Doing something like that would not take hours, but days!  And I've already done that just three weeks ago when I got the new computer.  If there is any other way, I'd prefer another option.

I'm also planning to take your previous advice about going back to an Intel processor.  You are about the 4th person that told me that my 8-Core AMD CPU is not as good as the Intel i7 I had in my old system.  And I can definitely tell the difference, especially with Cakewalk SONAR (my music production software)  I'm getting a LOT of crackles and pops during playback and recording, even with the most compatible settings.  I never had any crackles, pops or latency problems with my Intel CPU.  And I'm using the same amount of RAM (16GB).

I think for now if I can't figure out why this new SSD is not working, I'm just going to put the original hard drive back in. At this point, I'd have to say it's better than nothing.

It all started with a bad power supply from my old system. I did just about everything else to try and fix the problem EXCEPT the correct thing.  This whole thing has been one mistake after another, a lot of it my fault for making the wrong decisions, and trusting a local computer store to help build my new computer.
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
I can definitely understand the reluctance to do a full reload => as you noted, that can be a laborious process, especially with software that doesn't have available "installs" remaining and the require you to call or e-mail to get that resolved.    MOST activations should proceed with no issue, since you'll be installing it on the same system it's already on -- but if you're planning to replace the motherboard/CPU with a new Haswell-based system I'd definitely wait until you do that before you do the reinstalls, since that WILL require new activations.

Simple replacing the old hard drive is a reasonable work-a-round for now.    If you outline EXACTLY how you moved the system from that drive to the new SSD, we MAY be able to suggest what you need to do differently to successfully move it to the MX100.
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Natty GregIn Theory (IT)Commented:
in addition to what Gary do make an image of your hard disk with all your software preloaded so when you're done, youll have a ready made image to restore your computer
you build the systems yourself?
then it looks to me you are making some errors in the assembly process - it is not normal to have that much problems.
take your system to a shop for examination, and ask specifically to show you what problems they find

if this is not the case - you may have a bad AC rail (over voltage or spikes)
noxchoGlobal Support CoordinatorCommented:
Have you updated the firmware of SSD?
How many drives do you have in your system? Were they all tested?
Leee211Author Commented:
NOBUS: I have built my own computers in the past, but these two recent ones I had assembled by "professionals".
And I agree, it isn't normal to have this many problems, which is why I've been pulling out what's left of my hair for the past few days because it's been one thing after another.  
I live in a small college town in the middle of Washington State, and there are only two computer shops within a 40 mile radius. One, where I had the latest built, will never get my business again, and the other didn't really help me much in the past.
As I said, I know my way around computers, have been tinkering with them for the past 25 years or so.  I wouldn't consider myself at the professional level, but somewhere in the middle.

NOXCHO - I've tried updating the drivers for the SSD, and was told they are the most current.   I have two drives in my system, as I mentioned in my first post, one 512GB SSD and one 1TB HD.

I found a website that shows a checklist of 12 things you should do to have your SSD running correctly. such as enable AHCI and enable TRIM, all of which I've tried but the system still grinds down to complete halt after about 5 minutes.

Today I'm going to try running it without the 2nd hard drive and see if that makes a difference.  If not, I'm going to just put the old hard drive back in until I have enough money to (once again) rebuild the system to include an Intel processor.
since they built the last 2 - take them to them, and ask for warranty service would be my first option
>>  going to just put the old hard drive back   <<   was this  the disk from the first -intel cpu - pc?

then best use something like paragon disk manager , to adapt to other hardware
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Since you're going to simply replace the original hard drive and (I assume) not use the Crucial for now, I'd suggest you spend a couple hours and do a bit of an experiment if you have a Windows 7 install DVD (Windows 8.1 would require activation ... Windows 7 doesn't require this for 30 days) ...

=>  Connect JUST the MX100 (no other hard drives) ... and install Windows 7 from scratch (selecting Custom install and deleting all current partitions, so it's installed on a "clean" SSD.    On an SSD you can do the complete install in well under 30 minutes (perhaps a bit longer if you need to install a few drivers, which may or may not be required, depending on just what '7 "knows" about).
Leee211Author Commented:
I just attempted to do a complete new install of Windows 8.1 on the new SSD.  I put in my Windows disc into the drive and the only choices it gave me was to refresh the existing Windows install or "custom".  So I chose the custom option, thinking it would allow me to choose to do a full install, but instead I got the following message:
"Windows cannot be installed on this disk.  The selected disk has an MBR partition table.  On EFI systems, Windows can only be installed to GPT disks.   I'm going to Google "EFI" and "GPT" to find out what they mean, but while I'm doing that, if someone wants to explain that to me, I'd appreciate it.

I'm going to try and delete everything on the SSD drive (wipe it clean) and see if it will then allow me to do a full install.
I won't be doing this until another hour or so, so if anyone has any better ideas I'll hold off for awhile.  Thanks!
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Your system has a UEFI BIOS ... it can probably be set to "legacy" mode to bypass this constraint, but you could also reinitialize the SSD as a GPT disk.    This is the simplest way to proceed.

GPT is "GUID Partition Table" ... modern disks can either be initialized with a Master Boot Record (MBR) or as GPT.    The SSD has clearly been initialized as an MBR device.

When you select a Custom install, it should allow you to Delete all existing partitions.   I don't recall if at that point it will let you re-initialize the disk or not.    If it will, then do that and it should install okay (you may have to choose GPT if it asks).
Leee211Author Commented:
Thanks for the explanation Gary.  I tried a few different options in the BIOS, but still kept coming up with the same response, which was unable to do a fresh install on that drive.   So I put the original hard drive back in and everything is working fine now. (except I'm using a regular hard drive and not a SSD).   I guess I can live with this for now (and deal with a slightly slower start up), I'm just happy the computer is working properly, I can use my software without any problems, including Cakewalk's SONAR (the program I use the most on this PC) and I guess when the time comes and save up some money in a month or two, replace the motherboard and CPU (to an Intel i7) and try reinstalling a fresh Windows install. Or try cloning the SSD again using Paragon Disk Manager instead of Acronis.

At this point I'm unable to determine what was wrong.  As I mentioned I used Acronis to clone the SSD, it was a simple process that was supposed to make an exact clone of the original.  So either the SSD is bad or more likely I didn't set the BIOS or some other settings correctly.
noxchoGlobal Support CoordinatorCommented:
Try to clone the drive to SSD using Paragon Migrate OS to SSD. It is part of Hard Disk Manager and detects the OS files automatically even if they are shared on two drives. By doing this you risk nothing. When done try to boot from SSD and see if it shows any problem.
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Since the system is running, do this:

(a)  Connect the SSD to a spare SATA port

(b)  Install WD's Data Lifeguard for Windows  [The download here is fine: ]

(c)  Run Data Lifeguard.  Select the SSD.   Be CERTAIN you've selected the correct drive !!   Then, on the run tests menu, choose Write Zeroes ... and when prompted do the Full Write (not the Quick Write).    You may have to do this twice ... depending on the partition structure and how Windows is currently using the drive, it may abort due to errors the first time (this is normal).

(d)  Exit Data Lifeguard.   Go to Disk Management ... it will pop-up a note that you need to initialize a disk (the SSD) ==> choose GPT for the initialization, and you're done.    No need to create any partitions at this stage.

The SSD will now be in GPT format, so you can try your install again :-)
Leee211Author Commented:
Thanks Gary.   I have a USB adapter port (the kind that lets you plug in a HDD or SSD to the adapter and plug the adapter into an external USB port)  Do you think that would be sufficient for this type of test or does it need to be plugged directly into an internal SATA connector?
noxchoGlobal Support CoordinatorCommented:
I would not write zeroes to SSD drive, it is similar to wiping and on SSD drives the wiping is done by inbuilt TRIM.
Here is a link to Crucial forum:
If you simply delete the partitions it should be enough. Btw, the Hard Disk Manager tool has an option Wipe SSD.
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Writing zeroes kills the initialization.    It's not at all the same as trimming the drive.   Trimming is "garbage collection", which is NOT the same as writing new data (zeroes).

Although I suspect the quick zeroing is fine -- try that (it's much faster) and then see if Disk Management still wants to initialize the drive ... if so, just do it as GPT and you're ready to go.
Leee211Author Commented:
Okay thanks guys, I'll read the link and I'll give it a try tonight.
noxchoGlobal Support CoordinatorCommented:
Gary, TRIM when running on its default settings is cleaning the pages where data was marked as deleted. But so called Secure Erase gives to TRIM extra command which marks the whole data containing pages as "Deleted data" and thus erases the whole drive. The trick is that by default not the entire SSD drive pages are filled with data and erasing those empty ones are excessive usage operation for the drive. That's why it is recommended to use either Secure Erase or simply delete the partitions which inbuilt trimming process will understand that all data is marked as deleted and clean those pages.
BTW, writing zeros onto SSD is considered to be also an operation of data writing :)
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Of course writing zeroes is writing data :-)
The Secure Erase function should work as well for this;  but deleting the partitions will not -- that still doesn't re-initialize the drive, which would still be in MBR format if that is all that was done.
noxchoGlobal Support CoordinatorCommented:
To remove the initialization data it is enough to empty the sector 0. Which is MBR. :)
With hex editor. But if the question is installing UEFI or MBR then if the drive has no partitions then Windows installation process can convert it to GPT itself. No initialisation is needed in this case.
Gary CaseRetiredCommented:
Didn't realize the Windows 8 installer would convert to GPT as long as there are no current partitions.
Good to know.
Leee211Author Commented:
Sorry it took so long to respond.  I had several non-computer related issues to deal with, and on top of that a week ago when my computer did a standard "Update and Restart", it wouldn't boot again.  And this was with the HDD that I've been using successfully for the past 2 or 3 weeks.   I ended up having to "refresh" the Windows OS, which in turn made all my software unusable again.  So once again for the third time in the past few months I find myself having to reinstall all my f@#$%ing software and going through the hassle of re-registering or re-authorizing it all.  Including Office, Photoshop, all my music/audio and video production software.  Which I haven't done yet.

The update that caused my PC to not boot properly:
I got error messages that said 0xc000021a and Critical_process_died.   I believe has something to do with the D drive I use for data and non-OS programs.   It seems that, as it  has done in the past, tried to update OS files onto that D drive.  I had to disconnect that D drive in order to refresh the C drive with Windows 8.1, which I THOUGHT would just update the OS files, instead in caused me to have to reinstall all of the software that I just installed less than a month ago.

I thought this would be a good time to try and get the SSD drive running again.  I figure if I have to reinstall all my software again then I might as well try it on the SSD drive.  So far, I haven't been able to do that.
I again tried using Acronis True Image.  Set the parameters to clone the C drive to the new SSD.  Everything is set properly, the computer restarts, Acronis Loader takes over and then.....Nothing!   I get a message saying that the SSD is not responding.  
I had done a quick reformat, I'm trying a standard (non-quick) reformat of the drive.

 The SSD is currently connected via a USB interface adapter.

   My question was never answered about whether using this adapter would make a difference as opposed to connecting the SSD directly to a SATA connector

The advice given so far is slightly above my general experience/comfort level and am having a hard time understanding what you all are trying to suggest.  It doesn't help matters any when there are debates and disagreements going back and forth between responses as to what is the right way to proceed.   Adding to the fact that I am on disability in which it makes it more difficult, physically and mentally, to deal with these continuous computer issues.   It's just one thing after another.
I had finally gotten my computer running to where I could do what I wanted (even though this system is not as good as my previous setup, at least it was working),  Now once again, I'm back at square one again and ready to throw the whole computer out the window.

I'm currently waiting for the formatting to finish on the SSD, I will try one more time to clone the two drives.  If that doesn't work, I'm just going to continue to reinstall all my software yet again on the HDD that is currently installed.
Leee211Author Commented:
I was finally able to clone the SSD by connecting directly to a SATA connection (as opposed to trying to clone it via a USB converter attachment) and by removing the D drive before cloning.   I used the Acronis "clone" function as I did before.  So far it seems to be doing okay.  I'm in the process of reinstalling software.
Since no one really directly helped solve the issue, I do appreciate the suggestions and tips, so to finally close this question I'll be dividing up the points to everyone that offered a suggestion.  Thanks!
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