data cd vs mp3 cd
Hi,
To listen in my car which CD is better data or mp3?
I have bunch of audio songs i want to create CD out of it to play in my car. Which software does that CD cutting for free effectively and easily. Any step by step process would be appreciated. My dell laptop has windows 7 OS not sure any inbuilt software for that.
please advise
To listen in my car which CD is better data or mp3?
I have bunch of audio songs i want to create CD out of it to play in my car. Which software does that CD cutting for free effectively and easily. Any step by step process would be appreciated. My dell laptop has windows 7 OS not sure any inbuilt software for that.
please advise
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ASKER
if i go to amazon which cd type i should buy. I tried different CDs like writable, rewritable etc nothing worked for me.
Even in walmart can you suggest some CD company or link which i can use to buy?
is writable better or re-writable better??
what other things i should look to purchase these CDs like lenth of audio etc?
please advise
Even in walmart can you suggest some CD company or link which i can use to buy?
is writable better or re-writable better??
what other things i should look to purchase these CDs like lenth of audio etc?
please advise
ASKER
MP3 CDs hold about 7 times as many songs as regular CDs.
i like this. I have lot of collection to listen.
ASKER
You can burn an MP3 cd from windows file explorer or windows media player.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/burn-cd-dvd-media-player#1TC=windows-7
does it comes default in windows 7 ultimate operating system laptop?
how to check?
ASKER
To burn a regular CD from MP3 files ...
you mean as below right
To burn a regular CD from audio files ...
any kind of audio type is fine like wmv, mp3 etc to burn regular CD??
If it supports MP3, just burn the files to a CD in data mode. You can take any CD-R (CD-RW usually don't work in car CD players). Also make sure you don't buy DVD's, those will most likely not work. If you have an inkjet printer that can print directly to CD's, I would suggest you buy CD's that can be printed to. This would be shown on the package.
One thing I also always make sure of is that when burning anything, I use the lowest available speed. CD's burnt at low speeds tend to be readable on more players and last longer. I don't know whether the built in tools of Windows allow you to set those speeds, and even if they may be better than on previous windows versions, they are still rather limited, so I use 3rd party tools. The one I use most is InfraRecorder, which is free:
http://portableapps.com/apps/utilities/infrarecorder_portable
One thing I also always make sure of is that when burning anything, I use the lowest available speed. CD's burnt at low speeds tend to be readable on more players and last longer. I don't know whether the built in tools of Windows allow you to set those speeds, and even if they may be better than on previous windows versions, they are still rather limited, so I use 3rd party tools. The one I use most is InfraRecorder, which is free:
http://portableapps.com/apps/utilities/infrarecorder_portable
Hi gudii9
To address a couple of the follow-on questions you asked.
"CD-R" is the blank CD type you want. They come in a standard size that will be indicated as both "700 MB" (that's MegaBytes capacity) and "800 minutes". I stay in the UK, so comparitive values aren't immediately apparent to me. Taking the Verbatim "cake box" container of 100 CD-R blanks at wal-mart:
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/cd-r-discs?facets=category%3ABlank+CDs
22.00 USD = 14.90 GBP
That's 22 cents per CD to you and 15 pence to me.
I think that's pretty much the same actual "cost" to both of us, and is pretty cheap when you think about it.
Of course, you probably don't need 100 CD blanks, but if you sort the listing into price order low to high;
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/cd-r-discs?facets=category%3ABlank+CDs&sort=4
AND IGNORE THE CD-RW (re-writeable) discs, you can get 5 pack and 10 packs.
Obviously on a spindle in a "cake box" you would either need standard CD "crystal cases" (and cardboard inserts if you want to be able to identify the CDs from the outside of the cases), or one of those zip-up binders that contains fuzzy-backed clear polythene pockets:
http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=cd%20storage%20case&typeahead=cd%20storage
Remember that if you are going to write on the face of burned CDs, only use a pen designed for the purpose. Standard sharpies can melt the plastic if they contain solvents.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sharpie-CD-DVD-Twin-Tip-Marker-Pens-Black-2-pk/39108355
Obviously you may like to consider rindi's suggestion about CDs that support being printed onto if you have a capable printer. DON'T put stickers onto the face of CDs unless thay are for that purpose and you have the tool that allows you to align then perfectly, because that can imbalance the CD which spins at very high speed inside a player.
Brand names? Very subjective and as much a personal preference as many other computing accessories. The recognised names like Verbatim, Maxell, Imation, and Memorex could very easily be mass produced in the same factory as the Kodak ones. I would tend to avoid generic supermarket brands that are likely to have less stringent quality control.
Write Speed? You may see 48x and 52x against CD-R products. This is the theoretical MAXIMUM write speed, where 1x is the slowest. A CD/DVD Writer DRIVE usually has the maximum write speeds for CD-R, CD-RW, and DVD written on it somewhere. Practically all CD Writer Drives will be able to write to a CD-R blank at 52x but, as rindi mentioned, don't burn CDs at their maximum speed. Knock it down to something like 12x or 16x burn speeds and you will have less wasted discs.
If the burner is trying to burn too fast it may not be supplied with the data fast enough and a pause can cause an error whereby this is reported and it just spits out a coffee cup coaster. if the hard drive containing the audio files being fetched and burned labours at any time or is slow, the disc will be ruined. If you set the write speed in the CD Burning software to 12x or 16x you will rarely get ruined CDs.
I don't think you can set the maximum burn speed of the CD Writer drive from within the "properties" dialog, but I'm sure that you can do so in the user settings of Windows Media Player if you are using that to burn Audio CDs. For greater control you need, as rindi has mentioned, 3rd-party software. I like infrarecorder also, however I have used a great many free titles over the years.
Most CD-burning software allows you to have the data buffered so that if the hard drive stutters or slows down while the data is being read from it, the burner drive can keep working with the data in the temporary memory buffer. I'm afraid my mind has gone blank regarding the name normally given to this setting ..... Aaah, yes I do. "Buffer Under-Run Control". It's been a while since I burned any CDs ;-)
It is usually better to have your audio source files on a hard drive that is fixed to your computer than on an external USB drive, because those are slower than normal hard drives.
If the software supports it, you can use MP3, WAV, WMA, or perhaps others, as your source audio files to burn an AUDIO CD.
You would have to have a car player that supports WMA and MP3 file formats to burn an "MP3 CD" (the data CD with the files burned to it rather than the Audio CD format as you would buy commercially) using WMA files. Not all car players will recognise WMA files even if they can play MP3 CDs.
I hope this addresses some of your further queries. Don't hesitate to ask about any other things that are puzzling or confusing to you.
To address a couple of the follow-on questions you asked.
"CD-R" is the blank CD type you want. They come in a standard size that will be indicated as both "700 MB" (that's MegaBytes capacity) and "800 minutes". I stay in the UK, so comparitive values aren't immediately apparent to me. Taking the Verbatim "cake box" container of 100 CD-R blanks at wal-mart:
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/cd-r-discs?facets=category%3ABlank+CDs
22.00 USD = 14.90 GBP
That's 22 cents per CD to you and 15 pence to me.
I think that's pretty much the same actual "cost" to both of us, and is pretty cheap when you think about it.
Of course, you probably don't need 100 CD blanks, but if you sort the listing into price order low to high;
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/cd-r-discs?facets=category%3ABlank+CDs&sort=4
AND IGNORE THE CD-RW (re-writeable) discs, you can get 5 pack and 10 packs.
Obviously on a spindle in a "cake box" you would either need standard CD "crystal cases" (and cardboard inserts if you want to be able to identify the CDs from the outside of the cases), or one of those zip-up binders that contains fuzzy-backed clear polythene pockets:
http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=cd%20storage%20case&typeahead=cd%20storage
Remember that if you are going to write on the face of burned CDs, only use a pen designed for the purpose. Standard sharpies can melt the plastic if they contain solvents.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sharpie-CD-DVD-Twin-Tip-Marker-Pens-Black-2-pk/39108355
Obviously you may like to consider rindi's suggestion about CDs that support being printed onto if you have a capable printer. DON'T put stickers onto the face of CDs unless thay are for that purpose and you have the tool that allows you to align then perfectly, because that can imbalance the CD which spins at very high speed inside a player.
Brand names? Very subjective and as much a personal preference as many other computing accessories. The recognised names like Verbatim, Maxell, Imation, and Memorex could very easily be mass produced in the same factory as the Kodak ones. I would tend to avoid generic supermarket brands that are likely to have less stringent quality control.
Write Speed? You may see 48x and 52x against CD-R products. This is the theoretical MAXIMUM write speed, where 1x is the slowest. A CD/DVD Writer DRIVE usually has the maximum write speeds for CD-R, CD-RW, and DVD written on it somewhere. Practically all CD Writer Drives will be able to write to a CD-R blank at 52x but, as rindi mentioned, don't burn CDs at their maximum speed. Knock it down to something like 12x or 16x burn speeds and you will have less wasted discs.
If the burner is trying to burn too fast it may not be supplied with the data fast enough and a pause can cause an error whereby this is reported and it just spits out a coffee cup coaster. if the hard drive containing the audio files being fetched and burned labours at any time or is slow, the disc will be ruined. If you set the write speed in the CD Burning software to 12x or 16x you will rarely get ruined CDs.
I don't think you can set the maximum burn speed of the CD Writer drive from within the "properties" dialog, but I'm sure that you can do so in the user settings of Windows Media Player if you are using that to burn Audio CDs. For greater control you need, as rindi has mentioned, 3rd-party software. I like infrarecorder also, however I have used a great many free titles over the years.
Most CD-burning software allows you to have the data buffered so that if the hard drive stutters or slows down while the data is being read from it, the burner drive can keep working with the data in the temporary memory buffer. I'm afraid my mind has gone blank regarding the name normally given to this setting ..... Aaah, yes I do. "Buffer Under-Run Control". It's been a while since I burned any CDs ;-)
It is usually better to have your audio source files on a hard drive that is fixed to your computer than on an external USB drive, because those are slower than normal hard drives.
If the software supports it, you can use MP3, WAV, WMA, or perhaps others, as your source audio files to burn an AUDIO CD.
You would have to have a car player that supports WMA and MP3 file formats to burn an "MP3 CD" (the data CD with the files burned to it rather than the Audio CD format as you would buy commercially) using WMA files. Not all car players will recognise WMA files even if they can play MP3 CDs.
I hope this addresses some of your further queries. Don't hesitate to ask about any other things that are puzzling or confusing to you.
ASKER
so if your MP3 files average out at 5MB, you would be able to fit approximately 140 MP3 files onto the CD. That would be over 11 hours of playback time.so i need to look for CD R.
I tried CD RW and DVDs also which did not work earlier.
Can i purchase below and test to see how it works to cut mp3 songs of say 11 hour lenght
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxell-648450-48x-Write-Once-CD-R-For-Data-10-spindle-Carded-For-Peg-Hooks/13259141
Please advise
CD-RW and DVD's will normally not work in car players. Only CD-R's. It really doesn't matter what product you get. Just walk into a shop and buy some. It's not worth ordering them and having to pay extra for postage. I also don't agree with the above of not buying them in supermarkets. Those are usually just products which use another label and are probably the same as brand products.
The reason to burn at the lowest speed possible, is not because the PC can't handle the speed and always needs to catch up. That may have been the reason 2 decades ago, when you had CPU's that were measured in MHz and not GHz, and the CD writers just came out and didn't use technologies like "burn-proof" or whatever the manufacturers call them, and disk drives were small and slow compared to today.
It is rather because the CD/DVD drives are cheap mass-products, even though they are high tech and use moving parts. The manufacturers can't afford to waste time calibrating them to the best standard, and because of that the drives will be slightly different in their settings. This means that a CD written on one drive might be slightly off for another drive and not readable. If you burn it a lower speed, the signal that writes to the CD is stronger and that will make it more likely to be read on a greater number of different drives.
The reason to burn at the lowest speed possible, is not because the PC can't handle the speed and always needs to catch up. That may have been the reason 2 decades ago, when you had CPU's that were measured in MHz and not GHz, and the CD writers just came out and didn't use technologies like "burn-proof" or whatever the manufacturers call them, and disk drives were small and slow compared to today.
It is rather because the CD/DVD drives are cheap mass-products, even though they are high tech and use moving parts. The manufacturers can't afford to waste time calibrating them to the best standard, and because of that the drives will be slightly different in their settings. This means that a CD written on one drive might be slightly off for another drive and not readable. If you burn it a lower speed, the signal that writes to the CD is stronger and that will make it more likely to be read on a greater number of different drives.
ASKER
CD-RW and DVD's will normally not work in car players. Only CD-R's.
That explains my failure of playing some of CD tests in my car
Thank you gudii9
ASKER
it does support mp3, auxilary cable and radio also there