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Indy Tim

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how should I extend my cat5 cable by 20 feet?

Running new cables would be too expensive. The current cables (9 of them) are about 70 meters. My networked devices (PCS and such) are being moved 20' beyond the reach of the old cables.

Option 1- use a patch panel to terminate the  old cables in ports 1-9. Terminate new cables in ports 13-24. Connect port 1 to port 13 with a nice patch cable, and so on. At the far end of the new cables, there would be another patch panel. From there, various 3' to 10' patch cables would go to the devices.

Option 2- use 9 individual 'junction boxes' such these: https://goo.gl/deH5jg

Option 3 - use a 110 block?

The demands on the Ethernet LAN are modest.  Gigabit NICS on PCS, but everything else is 10/100. There are fewer than 25 devices on the LAN.

This is all going to be visible on a 20' ceiling inside a small retail shop. It doesn't need to be pretty, but it needs to look tidy/competent.

Any thoughts? Thanks!
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John
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How are the ends of the present cables terminated?

With Option 1, you have two punch-downs and two plug/jack connections at this location, then cables running to the patch panel at the new location.

With Option 2, you have two punch-downs and no plug/jack connections at this location, then cables running to the patch panel at the new location.

Option 3 is about the same as Option 2 except that you are responsible for the wires between the terminations and all cables are done on on block rather than on multiple blocks.

I would consider couplers such as these:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Line-Coupler-Black/dp/B00WKPKE40/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484101476&sr=8-3&keywords=cat5e+coupler

You would have two jack/plug connections, then cables running to the patch panel at the new location.  While it is tempting to use long patch cables from the couplers, general practice is to have exposed cables (such as those that connect to the computers) be easily replaceable.  That is the part of the cable that is most likely to be damaged.
I agree with John.  If the cabling is going to be at all permanent, then you need to terminate the cables on a patch panel.

You can use a 110 block that's CAT5/5e rated, but I think a more elegant (and more stable) solution is to use an actual patch panel.

I would, however, adjust that solution slightly.  I don't really see a need to terminate the cables from the PCs into a patch panel.  You're adding an extra connection point which doesn't need to be there.
re: need to terminate the cables from the PCs into a patch panel:

If the cable gets damaged at the PC end (most likely place), you want it to be fairly replaceable.  If it is not a difficult task to re-string the patch cable back to the patch panel, then that is good enough.  Otherwise, I'd want a jack of some sort nearby.

There is also the issue of stranded vs. solid cable.  Stranded cables are generally preferred to connect to the PC as they are much more flexible than solid cables.  The problem is that punch-down connectors are generally designed for solid cables.  You can get stranded to work, but there may be long-term issues.

Note that there are different crimp-on plugs available for solid or stranded cables.

If you are running patch cables from first punch-down to the PCs, then a 110 patch panel should have fewer connections.

My initial comment about Option 3 should be disregarded.  I was considering a 110 block and not a 110 patch panel.

I'd start with answering two questions:
1)  Is the existing cable solid or stranded?
2)  How is it presently terminated?
Running new cables would be too expensive. The current cables (9 of them)

You might also want to re-think. Small number of cables and the old cable can be use to pull the new cable through, This should be pretty easy and and experienced installer can do this.

It may not be as expensive as you think, and the result will be much, much better in the long run.
If you really have Cat 5, and not Cat 5e, and have Gigabit connections or switches, then you should seriously replace them with Cat 5e or Cat 6 now.  Cat 5 can pass maybe 300 MBps before you start experiencing too much crosstalk to cause your network connections to fail.  If those connections are only 10/100, then that's fine, but don't put Gigabit on them.  It will work for many short burst connections, but once throughput exceeds 300 Mbps, you'll start to wonder what happened.

Since you have existing cables, it shouldn't be too difficult to tape the new cables to the old ones and pull them through existing conduit.  Hopefully, you've run them through conduit.
I would use the line couplers suggested by CompProbSolv with a 20 ft. cable.  At $11.99 for a 5 pack plus shipping, it doesn't get any cheaper or easier.
Might as well just do it right, and do the new runs. Make them several feet longer than necessary, but have the excess reside on the side of the patch panel (or another area that you can reasonably hide it). You're saying it's a small retail space, so while a higher cost, it's really not that bad in the scheme of it all.

I'd vote against couples right off the bat as I've seen too many fail (Yes they are inexpensive, but wait until you have to troubleshoot when they go bad). Option 2 would essentially be couplers. Options 1 and 3 add bits of unneeded infrastructure. All 3 options add points of failure. Short run savings can lead to long term pain.

If you were absolutely hellbent on one of the three options, I'd mostly go with option 1, but the manner Joseph has listed (no point in retyping what he's already mentioned).
How did this end up turning out? We've all given ideas with good reasoning.
Please follow up and close your question. Lots of good and correct information here.
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Indy Tim

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I'm going to try a 110 block with "clips" that connect 4 pairs. Leviton makes a block for 50 pairs. It's rated Cat 5e and gas tight. I found a video that showed the product being used for the same purpose that I have in mind.