Hardware diagnostic tool

Is there a device that I can buy that will diagnose a motherboard?  I've done the paperclip test on the PSU, so its ok.  I've replaced the cmos battery, reseated everything.  PC won't POST, so I need a hardware tool to diagnose why?  Ideas?
LEECHIPTURNERAsked:
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David Johnson, CD, MVPOwnerCommented:
It is normally faster and cheaper to just replace the items. Repairing a motherboard requires about $1K of equipment, Microscope, Hot Air Station, Soldering Iron, Fume Extractor.
Getting schematics is a problem. Some parts are proprietary and almost impossible to source. You have to consider your time into the equation.

Replacement is usually the cheapest option.
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andyalderSaggar maker's framemakerCommented:
Must be pretty old if you are looking at a PCI rather than PCIe diagnostic card.
nobusCommented:
i suggest to disconnect all devices not needed for a basic boot :
all disk and cd drives, external devices, etc... -  if there are many, LABEL the devices and cables !
leave only one ram stick

now it should boot into bios - if not, your PS is probably faulty - you can use a tester :  https://www.amazon.co.uk/PC-Power-supply-tester-LED/dp/B0038MN90A

Post the motherboard model, or pc model please, so we can give detailed info !  or is this  about your GIGABYTE problem ?
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-X58A-UD3R-rev-20#sp
LEECHIPTURNERAuthor Commented:
Thanks! It is the GA-X58A-UD3R (rev. 2.0) , Corsair TX650, GIGABYTE GeForce GT 430 (Fermi) DirectX 11 GV-N430OC-1GL 1GB , G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 24GB (6 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600.  Its been working great for years.  Over the last 2 days, it started locking up.  And then, it suddenly will not boot. Lights, fans, all work..  I did the paperclip test on the PSU and it passed.  But, I don't know how accurate that is!  Is there anything I can do other than visually inspect and smell the mobo? I've ordered the diagnostic tools above.  If I get annoyed enough at it, I want to keep most of my hardware, I may just replace mobo, cpu, RAM.  I see LGA1151 is current.  Any recommendations?
andyalderSaggar maker's framemakerCommented:
As Nobus says you can strip it down to basics, it only needs 1 DIMM and no extra cards to boot although I do not see an onboard video port. It my have onboard video, the picture I have is a bit blurry, it has legacy PS2 mouse and kbd!
nobusCommented:
it's a pity you don't live near  me ..i'd help you in an instant
do you have a multimeter?  then you can measure voltages -  cost = about 10$  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GZL1JPV/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_b13uEJ_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=76NHWFFWZZD521B1JSSJ&pf_rd_r=76NHWFFWZZD521B1JSSJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b67dd362-45ca-58fb-bec1-d782c2c03b3b&pf_rd_p=b67dd362-45ca-58fb-bec1-d782c2c03b3b&pf_rd_i=15707471

then you can measure the AC input, and DC voltages on the big connector  as shown
atx
LEECHIPTURNERAuthor Commented:
Hi NOBUS, I'm in Willis, TX.  Where are you?  I'll drive!  :)
Here is the multimeter I have:  Greenlee DM-200A Digital Multimeter
So I can attach to any com port (black wire) and then measure each one of the 24 pins?  Should it hit the numbers exactly or is there a range?  If find any that are out of range, then the PSU is faulty, yes?  If not the PSU, and I use only 1 stick RAM, and still no boot POST, then probably mobo?  

If mobo, then I'm going to replace mobo, psu, cpu, RAM... LGA 1151 the best way to go?   I was looking at this as a possible build that would be better than what I currently have:   https://www.pcgamer.com/gaming-pc-build-guide/
nobusCommented:
>>  Where are you?  I'll drive!  :)  <<<     that would be quite a journey - to Belgium....
>>  So I can attach to any com port (black wire) and then measure each one of the 24 pins?  <<<  right, you can also attach the BLack lead ( -) to the chassis, it should be the same
>>  If find any that are out of range, then the PSU is faulty, yes?  <<  if they differ more than 5% yes, probably (95%) PSU bad
>>  I use only 1 stick RAM, and still no boot POST, then probably mobo?    <<  mobo, or CPU - don't forget to test with other ram stick too.
if still nothing on screen, remove the AC cord and bios battery for 20 sec, and hold power button pressed, then reinstall and test
David Johnson, CD, MVPOwnerCommented:
don't forget that when testing power supplies ensure that power_good is at 5V
LEECHIPTURNERAuthor Commented:
Hi Folks, Here is the test for the PSU.  As far as I can tell, it looks like PSU is ok??
I also bought a mobo test card.  Will try that next.
CORSAIR-TX650-TEST.jpg
nobusCommented:
that's good news - now - the q remains why it won't start at all?
first thing comes to mind is faulty power switch, or loose cabling
LEECHIPTURNERAuthor Commented:
I just put in the PC Analyzer card, all other cards removed except 2 sticks of RAM.  Here are the alternating codes that flash:  62  00  E8  01.
Does that mean that the CPU has failed?
MOBO-TEST-CARD.jpg
nobusCommented:
i dont know the codes of your testcaed, you have to look them up in your manual., or post the model here
if that is the code - remove and reseat the cpu, and renew heatpaste as test

***and that the voltages are ok, only means that they are present, not that they supply enough power to start the pc; so the end test remains a LOADED power supply test (modern testers apply a certain load)
LEECHIPTURNERAuthor Commented:
Basically, after buying the PSU tester and the mobo tester, I figured out that its busted!  :)  
Have no idea whats wrong with it, so I'm tossing out the mobo, the cpu, the RAM, video card, and psu...  Hopefully, when I put the boot drive in, Microsoft will transfer the OS activation.  Buying
Intel Core i5-8600K @ 3.60GHz
MSI Z370-A PRO LGA 1151
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 WINDFORCE
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB
CORSAIR - CX Series Modular CX750M
Putting it in the old case and hoping for the best.  Thanks for all the help and feedback.

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andyalderSaggar maker's framemakerCommented:
Windows will see that as a new computer, looks like all you are keeping is the metal case. There again you can still get away with reusing an old OEM license since you get two goes by default.

I doubt a PCI-X POST board will give valid results on a PCIe based board, it's the wrong side of a PCIe to PCI-X bridge chip. A bit like testing the temperature of bath water by putting a thermometer on the floor under the bath.
nobusCommented:
did you find the meaning of the code?
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