Roger Smitty
asked on
I can no longer access my d drive after re-installing windows 10 on my c drive.
Thank you in advance for your help.
I reinstalled Windows 10 on my desktop computer. I have two hard drives in my computer. Windows was re-installed in my c drive where it has always lived. But now, I can no longer access my d drive. The d drive was working perfect before re-installing windows and I do have data on it that I would like to keep / retrieve. Windows explorer does not show d drive at all.
The hard drive is a Hitachi HUA722020ALA331. It is a 2 TB hard drive.
Here's what I've tried:
When I go to disk manager, it immediately tells me that I need to inititialize the disk before logical disk manager can access it. I have tried to initialize it using both MBR and GPT but either option gives me a message from the Virtual Disk Manager saying the device is not ready. In disk manager it also shows the drive with a red arrow, unknown, not initialized and with no information.
When i go to diskpart it will show the drive being online but also shows it with a size of 0 B. It also tells me that the drive is readonly and when i type in the command "attributes disk clear readonly" diskpart fails to clear readonly.
I have also uninstalled and re-installed the drive. Checked updates for drivers. It has most current driver.
I have also tried using data recovery software from stellar and easeus and neither of them show the drive.
I also took out the hard drive and connected it to a Nexstar and connected it via usb to my laptop when i couldn't get working as an internal drive to my desktop. Tried all the above and still the same. I also made sure to run as administrator.
I don't know what else to try. Please help.
Thanks!
I reinstalled Windows 10 on my desktop computer. I have two hard drives in my computer. Windows was re-installed in my c drive where it has always lived. But now, I can no longer access my d drive. The d drive was working perfect before re-installing windows and I do have data on it that I would like to keep / retrieve. Windows explorer does not show d drive at all.
The hard drive is a Hitachi HUA722020ALA331. It is a 2 TB hard drive.
Here's what I've tried:
When I go to disk manager, it immediately tells me that I need to inititialize the disk before logical disk manager can access it. I have tried to initialize it using both MBR and GPT but either option gives me a message from the Virtual Disk Manager saying the device is not ready. In disk manager it also shows the drive with a red arrow, unknown, not initialized and with no information.
When i go to diskpart it will show the drive being online but also shows it with a size of 0 B. It also tells me that the drive is readonly and when i type in the command "attributes disk clear readonly" diskpart fails to clear readonly.
I have also uninstalled and re-installed the drive. Checked updates for drivers. It has most current driver.
I have also tried using data recovery software from stellar and easeus and neither of them show the drive.
I also took out the hard drive and connected it to a Nexstar and connected it via usb to my laptop when i couldn't get working as an internal drive to my desktop. Tried all the above and still the same. I also made sure to run as administrator.
I don't know what else to try. Please help.
Thanks!
ASKER
Thanks for your response. I've never been able to initialize the disk. It stops me whenever i try.
If i can't recover the data that is unfortunate but what I can I do to at least get the hard drive working again?
If i can't recover the data that is unfortunate but what I can I do to at least get the hard drive working again?
I reinstalled Windows 10 on my desktop computer. I have two hard drives in my computer. Windows was re-installed in my c drive where it has always lived. But now, I can no longer access my d drive.this sounds to me during install the operating system was installed on C:\ and 99% of the time the image file is run from the D:\ drive. If this is the case all you had to do was give the old D:\ drive the letter recognition, it's often removed during installation.
Right click on the drive and select the option to give it a drive letter.
Somewhat concerned after you ran diskpart, it's easy to delete data or make the drive inaccessable if you don't know what you're doing. It's not a command tool to experiment randomly with.
Somewhat concerned after you ran diskpart, it's easy to delete data or make the drive inaccessable if you don't know what you're doing. It's not a command tool to experiment randomly with.
ASKER
Regarding, right clicking on the drive....
The drive does not show up in windows explorer so I can't do that there
In disk manager..
it immediately tells me that I need to inititialize the disk before logical disk manager can access it. I have tried to initialize it using both MBR and GPT but either option gives me a message from the Virtual Disk Manager saying the device is not ready. In disk manager it also shows the drive with a red arrow, unknown, not initialized and with no information.
Right clicking on the drive in disk manager doesn't give me a drive letter option
The drive does not show up in windows explorer so I can't do that there
In disk manager..
it immediately tells me that I need to inititialize the disk before logical disk manager can access it. I have tried to initialize it using both MBR and GPT but either option gives me a message from the Virtual Disk Manager saying the device is not ready. In disk manager it also shows the drive with a red arrow, unknown, not initialized and with no information.
Right clicking on the drive in disk manager doesn't give me a drive letter option
Unfortunately, what was the reason to reinstall windows? As Jackie and others pointed out, if you had drive encryption on or you had some other tools that encrypted the D drive, once you reinstalled windows on the c: drive the D: drive will become in accessible. IF the system in which it resides
Instead of messing with the drive, get getdatabackNT and see if it can find anything on the drive.
The drive may have failed and either the heads are messed up or the motor is dead.
The fact that you on several occasion responded yes to the initialize prompt....
If there is a physical damage to the drive, you can look at recovery, send it to a recovery place depending on what is wrong with it, it can cost from $200 to $2,500.
i.e. failed circuit board, failed heads, failed motor.
They are fairly responsive.
https://datarecovery.com/
Instead of messing with the drive, get getdatabackNT and see if it can find anything on the drive.
The drive may have failed and either the heads are messed up or the motor is dead.
The fact that you on several occasion responded yes to the initialize prompt....
If there is a physical damage to the drive, you can look at recovery, send it to a recovery place depending on what is wrong with it, it can cost from $200 to $2,500.
i.e. failed circuit board, failed heads, failed motor.
They are fairly responsive.
https://datarecovery.com/
I recommend going recovery mode before anything else. Download this recovery tool, I've used it many times it's well worth it. If the free trial finds your data it's worth the license. I believe it's between $30 - $50.
Once you recover your data we can aggressively remove drive configuration to get your drive working again.
Once you recover your data we can aggressively remove drive configuration to get your drive working again.
you add a drive letter using diskmgmt.msc
I reinstalled Windows 10 on my desktop computer. I also agree that the drive was probably encrypted using bit locker or similar technology and you have overwritten the keys. Curious about the response from 'manage-bde'
I reinstalled Windows 10 on my desktop computer. I also agree that the drive was probably encrypted using bit locker or similar technology and you have overwritten the keys. Curious about the response from 'manage-bde'
ASKER
I reinstalled windows because it hadn't run smoothly in a long time. Everything took longer than what it should. I just wanted a fresh install.
I never purposely encrypted the drive. I wouldn't even know how to do that and it would be something I would have to research on how to do it.
The drive was working perfectly before I re-installed windows. It's not making any weird sounds etc and it does not appear to me that the drive failed.
I will look into getdatabackNT. I have already tried EaseUS and Stellar data. Both of those never even found the drive.
I never purposely encrypted the drive. I wouldn't even know how to do that and it would be something I would have to research on how to do it.
The drive was working perfectly before I re-installed windows. It's not making any weird sounds etc and it does not appear to me that the drive failed.
I will look into getdatabackNT. I have already tried EaseUS and Stellar data. Both of those never even found the drive.
ASKER
Unless there's something I don't know, as far as I can tell diskmgmt.msc takes me to the same program (Disk Management) as when I type disk manager and hit enter down on the toolbar. Puts me in the same place.
if the drive is not listed in the bios, it is likely not connected. the worrying part is that following the install, you were prompted to initialize the DISk. This is a sign the system saw the drive but not the structure, it saw it as a foreign uninitialized resource.
"I have two hard drives in my computer."
Is it two physical hard drives or two partitions for one physical hard drive?
Is it two physical hard drives or two partitions for one physical hard drive?
ASKER
I could not find getdatabackNT
Are you referring to getdataback pro by runtime software?
Are you referring to getdataback pro by runtime software?
yes,yes. guess the name stuck...
I am no expert at this but my normal move whenever I am in this situation is start a live version of Ubuntu, version 18.04 is good.
Open the drive there and if it gives errors there, then I am convinced that there really was a issue.
Like the others mentioned, a recovery software then becomes handy.
Open the drive there and if it gives errors there, then I am convinced that there really was a issue.
Like the others mentioned, a recovery software then becomes handy.
ASKER
Two physical drives. Not two partitions.
One is a hitachi drive and the other is a western digital.
The hitachi drive is the problem
One is a hitachi drive and the other is a western digital.
The hitachi drive is the problem
ASKER
I ran getdataback on NTFS and the drive was not there.
Just to be clear....right now I have the drive plugged in via usb using nexstar. I don't know if that makes any difference but just wanted to make sure you knew that it is not inside the desktop.
I feel like it's something really dumb that's going on but of course I don't know what it is
Just to be clear....right now I have the drive plugged in via usb using nexstar. I don't know if that makes any difference but just wanted to make sure you knew that it is not inside the desktop.
I feel like it's something really dumb that's going on but of course I don't know what it is
Best to have the drive directly connected via sata.
ASKER
Ok. I will connect it back sata.
I tried all the steps I described in the beginning via sata. I then tried it usb connecting it to my laptop.
I will try sata again with getdataback and see if it makes a difference
I tried all the steps I described in the beginning via sata. I then tried it usb connecting it to my laptop.
I will try sata again with getdataback and see if it makes a difference
Consider it this way, SATA access is direct, connecting the HD via HUsb just adds an intermediary that does not help the situation.
Unplug the drive from the USB and plug it back in, you should physically get a notification if the drive is detected. The computer will make a noise and ask you how you want to proceed. If this isn't happening either the USB port is bad or drive. Try another USB port.
Have you tried EaseUS, I've never had any issues with it finding data connected USB or directly. It's also free to the extent you see your data if it there prior to making a purchase.
Have you tried EaseUS, I've never had any issues with it finding data connected USB or directly. It's also free to the extent you see your data if it there prior to making a purchase.
ASKER
Hello again.
So I connected the hard drive back inside the desktop sata direct.
On rebooting the computer, computer gave me a message that there has been a hardware change etc. I pressed enter. Windows booted up normally. But now I find no trace of the hard drive. When i go to disk manager, I am no longer prompted to initialize the hard disk. It just opens up and shows me the c drive. when i go to disk part, it doesn't find the drive either. I tried EaseUs and Stellar data and GetDataBack and none of them see the hard drive.
At this point, I don't care if I get the data back, I just want to see if at least I can get the hard drive.
So I connected the hard drive back inside the desktop sata direct.
On rebooting the computer, computer gave me a message that there has been a hardware change etc. I pressed enter. Windows booted up normally. But now I find no trace of the hard drive. When i go to disk manager, I am no longer prompted to initialize the hard disk. It just opens up and shows me the c drive. when i go to disk part, it doesn't find the drive either. I tried EaseUs and Stellar data and GetDataBack and none of them see the hard drive.
At this point, I don't care if I get the data back, I just want to see if at least I can get the hard drive.
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ASKER
So it sounds like to me that the drive somehow got automatically encrypted. I know the drive is not dead because it was working perfectly the moment before I installed windows.
I am certain I can't return the drive. It is over 5 years old.
The link you sent me was for western digital not Hitachi.
So once a drive gets encrypted there is nothing I can do to salvage it? Do I just go out and buy another drive now and throw this to the trash?
I am certain I can't return the drive. It is over 5 years old.
The link you sent me was for western digital not Hitachi.
So once a drive gets encrypted there is nothing I can do to salvage it? Do I just go out and buy another drive now and throw this to the trash?
Yes, they bought hitachi's HD business. https://www.zdnet.com/article/western-digital-buys-hitachis-storage-unit-for-4-3-billion-eyes-enterprise/
while hitachi previously bought IBM's HD .
note the link paths, are for HGST
SAMSUNG, Seagate, and WDC I think are the current ... three major manufacturers who are consolidating by buying up assets....
it might have been encrypted before with the OS or the app that provided access once OS wiped, ....you lost access to the data.
Perhaps I am jumping to conclusions, but it would be too coincidental even with the age of the HD to fail as the OS on the primary drive is changed.
while hitachi previously bought IBM's HD .
note the link paths, are for HGST
SAMSUNG, Seagate, and WDC I think are the current ... three major manufacturers who are consolidating by buying up assets....
it might have been encrypted before with the OS or the app that provided access once OS wiped, ....you lost access to the data.
Perhaps I am jumping to conclusions, but it would be too coincidental even with the age of the HD to fail as the OS on the primary drive is changed.
ASKER
So I think it's safe to say it was encrypted by the old OS even though I never set it up to be encrypted but i guess it did it automatically. Is there a program I can download to make it recognize the drive and decrypt it? Or is this drive trash now?
Let's say the old operating system was windows 8, if I plugged this hard drive into a computer running windows 8 would I then have access to it?
Let's say the old operating system was windows 8, if I plugged this hard drive into a computer running windows 8 would I then have access to it?
to access the drive and be in a position to decrypt/access the data it would need the key. I can not answer, look at the support page for downloadable software that might help to see whether it is possible to access the drive to reinitialize it or an explanation on how to gain access to it provided you took steps to backup the encryption..
download the tools to check HD health
for $80 you can get a new drive double the size.
at this point it is all guess work. based on the product info it listed a possibility that it has encryption built in. a slight variation might point to something else.
download the tools to check HD health
for $80 you can get a new drive double the size.
at this point it is all guess work. based on the product info it listed a possibility that it has encryption built in. a slight variation might point to something else.
drives fail usually at the most inopportune time. Since the bios is not recognizing it it is the drive that failed probably a component on the circuit board. In a majority of the cases that I've seen S.M.A.R.T. monitoring didn't help.. one minute the drive was working and the next it wasn't. This drive is an excellent choice for sending off to a repair company where they could swap out the board or find the faulty chip.
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did you test that drive on another PC? connect it to sata, or usb if that is not possible ( laptop)
how much storage do you need? what is your C drive capacity? and how much is in use? age?
possibly, get an SSD if it is not. clone current HDD to the SSD, and use the HDD as the storage..
faster bootup.
possibly, get an SSD if it is not. clone current HDD to the SSD, and use the HDD as the storage..
faster bootup.
ASKER
I guess I would like to have at least 4 TB. My c drive capacity is only 500 gigs. It is also at least 5 years old. I only keep windows on it. I have 2 other external drives for backups that I keep all my important files. I think those drives are 2 TB each.
Maybe I will get 2 more drives and just get rid of the 500 gig one as well since I'm sure it will die soon.
Maybe I will get 2 more drives and just get rid of the 500 gig one as well since I'm sure it will die soon.
Look at whether your system supports fake raid, sata raided 1
Look at synology raided storage ..
Look at synology raided storage ..
here a choice of dribves : https://www.amazon.com/External-Hard-Drives-4-TB-Above/s?rh=n%3A595048%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A5446816011
what model is your 500 GB drive? check it in device manager
what model is your 500 GB drive? check it in device manager
Hands down Western Digital makes the best and most reliable drives. I would buy straight from their site and nothing refurbished.
i have had bad drives from ALL manufacturers; and it does not help buying from the "best" if you only need 1 drive, and it turns out bad after a year….
I've had bad lots from all manufacturers when I was buying by the pallet. I've also had DOA drives from all manufacturers. My highest failures were the early Seagate 1.5TB drives. I see we are back into another fiasco with SMR drives (the last big fiasco was the gong from 512K to 4K sectors). If only they would clearly label the SMR drives as such rather than sneaking them in under the wire.
No comment has been added to this question in more than 21 days, so it is now classified as abandoned.
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seth2740
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I have recommended this question be closed as follows:
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If you feel this question should be closed differently, post an objection and the moderators will review all objections and close it as they feel fit. If no one objects, this question will be closed automatically the way described above.
seth2740
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It is very likely you have setup Bit-locker or other disk encryption for your D: drive when you started to use this computer. So, when you reinstall the OS, the data are gone.