NXP LPC11E68JBD48E Microcontroller I2C1 is Master.   I2C1 is in Master Transmitter Mode.
I2C1 peripheral is in chapter 13.  http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/302/UM10732-315822.pdf
NXP PCAL6416A I2C 16-bit I/O Expander is Slave. https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCAL6416A.pdf.

Master reads one byte from slave port 0.  On one board all Eight bits are logic 1's as expected.  On the other board Seven bits are logic 1's as expected
but bit 2 is logic 0.  The input pin connected to bit 2 is pulled up to 3.3V but it's logic 0 on I2C data bus.  Why?

                              D7 D6 D5 D4 D3 D2 D1 D0
Expected              1    1    1    1    1    1   1    1
One board           1    1    1    1    1    1   1    1
Another board    1    1    1    1    1    0   1    1

Explanation/Questions on attached scope screenshots:  Master sends slave address 0100 001(A6-A0), followed by write bit(logic 0).  Slave responds with ACK(logic 0).
Then, master send command byte 0x00(read byte from Input port 0).
Master sends start bit, followed by slave address, followed by read bit(logic 1).  Slave sends ACK.
On one board, slave send 0xFF as expected.  On other board, slave sends 0xFB, not expected. Master follow with a NAK.  Slave pulls data bus low before the stop
condition?  Why slave pulls data bus low?

The primary question is why is bit 2 logic 0 on the I2C bus when it's pulled up to 3.3V ?

Are we setting the I2C device properly?
INT pin(active low) is floating.

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2002 Kia Sedona. The owner is a friend and says his vehicle cuts off. He turns the key and it starts back up. It will do the same thing later the same day. It can do it three days later. It has not done it since Wednesday July 31.
Our conversation has eliminated the alternator, battery, starter, over heating crank sensor, bad plug, bad wire, timing belt.
Possibilities are a partially broken wire to the ignition switch (?), crank sensor that is not over heating but trying to going bad (I lost one of these on the highway and the car just went dead and all instrument lights cutoff in an instant).

And ????

i have an OLD Volkswagen (1996) - Passat Diesel with en engine of 1900CC
it has following weird behaviour : i charge the battery to FULL
then leave it in the garage. about 1 month later the battery is discharged
i measure the current draw from battery with everything off = 15 mA
this totals to 10.8 A/per month (30 days) - so : how can the battery be empty ?
the battery (replaced last year) is a 70 Ah model, so it should hold about 800 W

99 GMC Yukon/Tahoe AC vent mode door sticking.  Mode actuator motor works in all modes except mode 1 (dash only vent)..  For about a year, when selecting from floor, past mix, to upper vent mode, you could hear the air moving from mix to dash, but as the doors moved to full dash, the air would be blocked for a few seconds.  After a few seconds, you would hear door to the dash slam open and out wold come the air.  Ultimately, I would have to turn the fan on max to help push the door loose.  Now that isn't enough.  In dash only mode no air comes out even though the blower is trying.  I invision that the vent door is plastic with a foam seal around its  perimeter and that age or moisture had made it less spongey or hard and the door just can't push it home.  Because the door appears to slam open, I'm thinking it must be spring loaded.  The actuator motor cam has two slots which support the spring loaded door concept.  In addition, to the two slots, there is a white gear that engages with the teeth in the cam at the end of actuator travel and this must move a third door.  Am I right?  In any case, I would like advise on how to loosen things up and avoid an expensive trip to the dealership.  I thought about trying to run a endoscope through the center dash register in hope I might be able to see this door, but then what could I do?  It would be great if it was the actuator motor or cam. These are easily accessed.
IMG_4034.JPG

After owning a used vehicle with no warranty and for maybe 300 miles of driving the left rear brake light failed. There are two bulbs on the left side. One is the turn signal and the other has two elements and one comes on when the lights are turned on and a second element that comes on when the brake pedal is pressed.
Quite a few miles later we get a light alert on the dash that another or the same light was out. It turned out to be the same left brake light bulb. The existing one on the right side is 1157 and the replacements we got were 1157LL. The pack had two bulbs and we tried the spare bulb and still the left brake light fails. The tail light works but when the brake is pressed the tail light goes off and no light on the left side.
I moved the right side bulb to the left and get the same result.
This is curious as to how it happened. A failure after hundreds of miles and then the new one last maybe 3 more weeks and now bad. It is obviously (or not) not the bulb. I can go to a parts yard and pull a replacement rear light assembly with a 3 day warranty.
I'm not clear why the left tail light works and that specific element goes off when the brakes are applied.

We can drive with one brake light and if we are stopped by police no issues. But if that officer sees us again at a later date and the same bulb not working they might give a ticket at that point.

Nothing is seen as being crossed as far as wires, no wire that might have a naked spot touching metal, etc.
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How do I remove condensation from the inside of a car headlight?

I have a 1999 Chevrolet 1500 truck. Put a new battery in the car.  Won’t start.  Turns over great but won’t start.  A month ago it did the same thing.  Friend told me to hold down gas pedal for a couple minutes.  Then I tried and after cranking for a minute straight it slowly chugged and then started.  This time that process did not work.  Anything I can try?

I have 2 types of industrial connectors used in a machinery.
I only know the logo of the manufacturer written on the connectors:


Could you help to identify the manufacturer?

I'm looking for an iPhone X rear car backup Bluetooth camera backup system where I can install a camera on my rear car bumper (that gets power from my car) that then transmits to my iPhone X so that I can see behind me while I am backing up in my car.

What are some good Bluetooth cameras that do this?

When japanese car maker recall their cars (specifically Toyota for the
hybrid Prius & CHR for the recent circuit & fire hazard), will the maker

a) take back to fix it (replace parts) & then return the car.  During this
    period of loss of use of the car, will the maker compensate with
    say taxi fare?

b) or refund the owner & if so, at what price?

c) how's the arrangement like?

Would like how it's practised in other parts of the world .
I'm assuming there's no accident/injuries incurred to the car owner.

Please help me to identify the correct type or find a replacement alternative to the broken mini push button used in GPS Prestigio Geovision 5055 as seen in the photos from attached pdf file.