Automotive

In addition to ignition, power and monitoring gauges and lights, today's motor vehicles feature computerized engines, transmissions and braking systems, electronic mapping systems, Bluetooth and Internet connectivity, sensors that detect other vehicles, motorized seats, and digital audio and video systems; several manufacturers are producing electric and hybrid automobiles and self-driving cars.

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NXP LPC11E68JBD48E Microcontroller I2C1 is Master.   I2C1 is in Master Transmitter Mode.
I2C1 peripheral is in chapter 13.  http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/302/UM10732-315822.pdf
NXP PCAL6416A I2C 16-bit I/O Expander is Slave. https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCAL6416A.pdf.

Master reads one byte from slave port 0.  On one board all Eight bits are logic 1's as expected.  On the other board Seven bits are logic 1's as expected
but bit 2 is logic 0.  The input pin connected to bit 2 is pulled up to 3.3V but it's logic 0 on I2C data bus.  Why?

                              D7 D6 D5 D4 D3 D2 D1 D0
Expected              1    1    1    1    1    1   1    1
One board           1    1    1    1    1    1   1    1
Another board    1    1    1    1    1    0   1    1

Explanation/Questions on attached scope screenshots:  Master sends slave address 0100 001(A6-A0), followed by write bit(logic 0).  Slave responds with ACK(logic 0).
Then, master send command byte 0x00(read byte from Input port 0).
Master sends start bit, followed by slave address, followed by read bit(logic 1).  Slave sends ACK.
On one board, slave send 0xFF as expected.  On other board, slave sends 0xFB, not expected. Master follow with a NAK.  Slave pulls data bus low before the stop
condition?  Why slave pulls data bus low?

The primary question is why is bit 2 logic 0 on the I2C bus when it's pulled up to 3.3V ?

Are we setting the I2C device properly?
INT pin(active low) is floating.

/* …
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Hi, to everybody.
I have a (Automotive shop web app)
I need to:
1. Register a web domain.
2. Host my website (not static website).
3. Hosting should serve even databases.
I guess the registered Automotive shops will reach over 100 for the first year, and then the number will grow up much more. In this case, how should I deal with the database. Do I need to create a new database for each Automotive shop, or I keep the data for all Automotive shops in one database?

thanks in advance.
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2002 Kia Sedona. The owner is a friend and says his vehicle cuts off. He turns the key and it starts back up. It will do the same thing later the same day. It can do it three days later. It has not done it since Wednesday July 31.
Our conversation has eliminated the alternator, battery, starter, over heating crank sensor, bad plug, bad wire, timing belt.
Possibilities are a partially broken wire to the ignition switch (?), crank sensor that is not over heating but trying to going bad (I lost one of these on the highway and the car just went dead and all instrument lights cutoff in an instant).

And ????
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I have a 2011 Dodge Ram 3500. When applying the brakes the truck pulls to the right. I have replaced the right side caliper, pads and rotor but, the problem still occurs. For an unrelated problem the left side caliper was also replaced. I am not sure where to look next. Is there a way to check that even pressure is being applied to both front wheels when applying the brakes?
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i have an OLD Volkswagen (1996) - Passat Diesel with en engine of 1900CC
it has following weird behaviour : i charge the battery to FULL
then leave it in the garage. about 1 month later the battery is discharged
i measure the current draw from battery with everything off = 15 mA
this totals to 10.8 A/per month (30 days) - so : how can the battery be empty ?
the battery (replaced last year) is a 70 Ah model, so it should hold about 800 W
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Three images. The red lines show to broken hinge. This is a manufacturing defect from the first S-10 extended cab with third door that came off the assembly line. This hinge should have been made with metal. I've changed this three times and now on #4. The part from the dealer is expensive and the pull a parts yards are far and between on having the ones with the third door. And when they do the part is missing.
The orange line shows the holes through which the plastic pieces (blue lines) slide and one end of the broken hinge is shown in the red circle.
The pieces that have these plastic pins are on a threaded rod. On the back of the door opener part are two holes. When the handle is pressed the round holes do not move much. One goes down to pull the top rod (the one on the left) down to release the top of the door and the other one goes up when the handle is pressed to pull the right side rod up. I think the plastic pieces are about in the place they are supposed to be to put the required amount of tension on the handle to raise the right side rod that pulls up and releases the door latch at the bottom.

The problem, even though I have sprayed the door latches with WD-40, is that the amount of tension put on the plastic handle is too much and eventually the plastic hinge breaks.
The only way to get the door open is to have that piece removed and just pull up and down on the threaded rods. I tried that for over two years by stuffing a rag in the open space so the rods …
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99 GMC Yukon/Tahoe AC vent mode door sticking.  Mode actuator motor works in all modes except mode 1 (dash only vent)..  For about a year, when selecting from floor, past mix, to upper vent mode, you could hear the air moving from mix to dash, but as the doors moved to full dash, the air would be blocked for a few seconds.  After a few seconds, you would hear door to the dash slam open and out wold come the air.  Ultimately, I would have to turn the fan on max to help push the door loose.  Now that isn't enough.  In dash only mode no air comes out even though the blower is trying.  I invision that the vent door is plastic with a foam seal around its  perimeter and that age or moisture had made it less spongey or hard and the door just can't push it home.  Because the door appears to slam open, I'm thinking it must be spring loaded.  The actuator motor cam has two slots which support the spring loaded door concept.  In addition, to the two slots, there is a white gear that engages with the teeth in the cam at the end of actuator travel and this must move a third door.  Am I right?  In any case, I would like advise on how to loosen things up and avoid an expensive trip to the dealership.  I thought about trying to run a endoscope through the center dash register in hope I might be able to see this door, but then what could I do?  It would be great if it was the actuator motor or cam. These are easily accessed.
IMG_4034.JPG
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A friend has asked me help him repair his dodge hemi.  The engine is overheating when the ac is turned on.  He says he spoken to an expert mechanic who says he needs a new water pump.  I have  explained that there is nothing to wear out in a water pump except the bearings or the seal. When water starts getting through the seal it comes out the weep hole  in the bottom of the pump. Because the impeller is made out of metal, it never wears out so the pump always works even when it is leaking.  The  Engine has a new thermostat. But he's also told me that he regularly has to stop and put water in the radiator.

Therefore one of two things are happening. Either the leak is so bad that the radiator  isn't holding enough water to satisfy the engine needs and AC needs at the same time.  I believe the AC coil is integrated into the radiator core itself.  Low water would quickly cause the engine to overheat.  Or, the radiator is clogged up  and needs to be flushed out.  

He has been putting distilled water in the radiator to save money. I suggested that he stop that and start putting 100% antifreeze in the radiator. I believe antifreeze has a much higher boiling point. I might be wrong about that.   In any case, as long as the water pump is turning and the belt isn't slipping, the water pump, in my opinion, is pumping water like it should and the problem is elsewhere.  Am I correct? Am I missing anything?
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After owning a used vehicle with no warranty and for maybe 300 miles of driving the left rear brake light failed. There are two bulbs on the left side. One is the turn signal and the other has two elements and one comes on when the lights are turned on and a second element that comes on when the brake pedal is pressed.
Quite a few miles later we get a light alert on the dash that another or the same light was out. It turned out to be the same left brake light bulb. The existing one on the right side is 1157 and the replacements we got were 1157LL. The pack had two bulbs and we tried the spare bulb and still the left brake light fails. The tail light works but when the brake is pressed the tail light goes off and no light on the left side.
I moved the right side bulb to the left and get the same result.
This is curious as to how it happened. A failure after hundreds of miles and then the new one last maybe 3 more weeks and now bad. It is obviously (or not) not the bulb. I can go to a parts yard and pull a replacement rear light assembly with a 3 day warranty.
I'm not clear why the left tail light works and that specific element goes off when the brakes are applied.

We can drive with one brake light and if we are stopped by police no issues. But if that officer sees us again at a later date and the same bulb not working they might give a ticket at that point.

Nothing is seen as being crossed as far as wires, no wire that might have a naked spot touching metal, etc.
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My wife had a new car that does not have a CD player. It has Bluetooth and USB media ports. She has a lot of CDs she would like to listen to. Does anyone know if a "good" Walkman style CD player that can supply power and play through the USB media port, or connect to the car's Bluetooth? If it can connect to Bluetooth, there is power available through a USB power cable (same as used to charge a phone). Preferably don't want to use an auxiliary cable.
Seen some on Amazon with Bluetooth but say they won't connect to a car's Bluetooth, only headphones. Most have awful reviews.
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How do I remove condensation from the inside of a car headlight?
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My 1998 Chevrolet C1500 shows an airbag light on dash.  Does this mean my air bag is defective?  Should I get this checked out ASAP?
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I have a 1999 Chevrolet 1500 truck. Put a new battery in the car.  Won’t start.  Turns over great but won’t start.  A month ago it did the same thing.  Friend told me to hold down gas pedal for a couple minutes.  Then I tried and after cranking for a minute straight it slowly chugged and then started.  This time that process did not work.  Anything I can try?
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I have a 1998 Chevy 1500 truck and it won't start.  It cranks over good and almost tries to start but then doesn't.  I know that is not much to go on but I'm not mechanically inclined so any help would be appreciated.
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I have 2 types of industrial connectors used in a machinery.
I only know the logo of the manufacturer written on the connectors:


Could you help to identify the manufacturer?
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I have a 2014 Cadillac SRX and there is a metal to metal noise coming out of the front end. I have replaced the rotors, brake pads and the wheel bearings were replaced about 6 months ago but, the noise is still there. I have taken the brakes apart several times to use a brake squeal lube on the pads, verified that the calipers aren't damaged and that the anti-rattle clips aren't touching the rotors but, I am still hearing the noise. I have noticed that when I turn the wheel to the left the noise stops then, when the wheel is straight or turning to the right the noise continues.

I have also replaced the brakes on the rear of the car but, based on where I hear the noise and the fact that turning the wheel does or doesn't stop the noise I believe it to be in the fronts brakes.

I am out of ideas as to where the noise may be coming from.
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I'm looking for an iPhone X rear car backup Bluetooth camera backup system where I can install a camera on my rear car bumper (that gets power from my car) that then transmits to my iPhone X so that I can see behind me while I am backing up in my car.

What are some good Bluetooth cameras that do this?
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Is it illegal to bribe an MOT inspector into inspecting the car?

I'm pretty sure my car is safe and will pass all the safety and emission tests but it has a bag of horseshit in the boot and an overflowing ashtray full of smelly fag butts in the front. Is it illegal to offer an extra reward to the mechanic who braves the smell and tests it to make sure it is roadworthy?

I do not intend to bribe him into passing it as safe if it is unsafe but I do intend to bribe him into applying the standard tests rather than refusing to look at it due to the pong.
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When japanese car maker recall their cars (specifically Toyota for the
hybrid Prius & CHR for the recent circuit & fire hazard), will the maker

a) take back to fix it (replace parts) & then return the car.  During this
    period of loss of use of the car, will the maker compensate with
    say taxi fare?

b) or refund the owner & if so, at what price?

c) how's the arrangement like?

Would like how it's practised in other parts of the world .
I'm assuming there's no accident/injuries incurred to the car owner.
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Are there any yearly statistics on how many people have heart attacks in parked cars and has the figure increased since the introduction of electronic hand-brakes*? (*parking brake in American English).

Reason for asking is the second hand car I just bought has an electronic handbrake but every time I stop on an upward hill this brake automatically disengages and the car rolls backwards. I have managed to slam my foot on the footbrake every time but each time it happens my heart-rate skyrockets.

When I was taught to drive the parking process was footbrake-handbrake-neutral but these new-fangled parkingbrakes require footbrake-neutral-handbrake and I can't get out of the old habit.
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Please help me to identify the correct type or find a replacement alternative to the broken mini push button used in GPS Prestigio Geovision 5055 as seen in the photos from attached pdf file.

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I'm opening a repeat question to get the correct part# of iridium spark plug
for my Toyota Sienta (not Sienna) 1.5L 2015 make, 1.5L 1NZ-FXE I4 hybrid :
  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Sienta 

it's the 2nd gen.

Will need an eBay link to buy it;  last best attempts are either
FK20HR11 or  SK16R11
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I am not familiar with TF Cards.  Are they the same as microSD?   I need it for car dashcam.

Should I get microSD or a TF?  Any preferences?
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I drive a Toyota Sienta Hybrid, 2017 make.

Regular mechanic told me the engine / motor oil (he used synthetic type)
for hybrid is different from non-hybrid cars.

Q1:
What about spark plugs (I'm looking at iridium) : is it different from non-
hybrid cars'  iridium spark plugs?

Q2:
Can point me to an ebay, Amazon or Aliexpress link that sell Sienta
Hybrid's iridium spark plugs?
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I am planning to buy a used motor home. Some of them are very cheap "1997 Damon Intruder 345B" only 15 grant. My question is why are thy so cheap? Also is it ok to buy the used motorhomes. I make only 12 dollar an hour but i can afford to buy this only scare is how costly is to maintain those things?
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Automotive

In addition to ignition, power and monitoring gauges and lights, today's motor vehicles feature computerized engines, transmissions and braking systems, electronic mapping systems, Bluetooth and Internet connectivity, sensors that detect other vehicles, motorized seats, and digital audio and video systems; several manufacturers are producing electric and hybrid automobiles and self-driving cars.

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