2-pin wire to board connector identification

Maybe someone will recognize this connector.  I need the plug end.
It's a rather tiny 2-pin connector for a 12-volt lighting fixture - similar to what one might find in a PC or... ?
It's a locking connector with a squeeze-release on one side.
The plug measures very close to 0.2" wide and 0.1" high on the insertion end (plus appurtenances for the keying and the lock).  It's 0.6" long.Side/rear view opposite insertion endInsertion endThrough-hole  mount jack.Through hole mount jack from right side.Through hole mount jack from left side
LVL 27
Fred MarshallPrincipalAsked:
Who is Participating?

[Product update] Infrastructure Analysis Tool is now available with Business Accounts.Learn More

I wear a lot of hats...

"The solutions and answers provided on Experts Exchange have been extremely helpful to me over the last few years. I wear a lot of hats - Developer, Database Administrator, Help Desk, etc., so I know a lot of things but not a lot about one thing. Experts Exchange gives me answers from people who do know a lot about one thing, in a easy to use platform." -Todd S.

Martin MillerCTOCommented:
Molex is a manufacturer of these type of connectors.

Start here to help identify further... then try and parts reseller, like Granger for purchase. You may also find on eBay.
Dr. KlahnPrincipal Software EngineerCommented:
Do you need that specific connector, or will something that fits do?

If something that fits will do, take a PC fan with motherboard connector -- two, three or four wire, doesn't matter -- cut the wires at the fan, lift out as many contacts at you don't need, and use a sharp knife to pare down the side of the connector where the empty contacts were.  This should fit.

Or even easier ... if you don't need a connector housing, just plug on two "Dupont" connector wires used in Arduino prototyping.  A buck will buy you 40 of them.


Experts Exchange Solution brought to you by

Your issues matter to us.

Facing a tech roadblock? Get the help and guidance you need from experienced professionals who care. Ask your question anytime, anywhere, with no hassle.

Start your 7-day free trial
10 Tips to Protect Your Business from Ransomware

Did you know that ransomware is the most widespread, destructive malware in the world today? It accounts for 39% of all security breaches, with ransomware gangsters projected to make $11.5B in profits from online extortion by 2019.

Fred MarshallPrincipalAuthor Commented:
Good ideas all around!  Thanks!
I stumbled onto the fact that Molex builds these LED circuit board strips that appear to include the connector.
Unfortunately, I believe that they're all custom designs.  I have a couple of different ones on hand - neither one of which work.
They don't have much in the way of components,
- a couple SMT resistors R1 and R2 which appear to be 240 ohms and 430 ohms
- an SMT cap C1 marked 336v and 40H00
- a 4-lead IC with no markings.  The power to the board comes into the two IC leads at one end.  For all I know, it could be a pair of protective diodes.  Or, it could be a full-wave diode bridge as these devices are said to run on either 12vdc OR 12vac.  It appears these LED strips will run on 12vdc. if they are working.

There are 5 LEDs which look like they're connected in series - which surprises me a little.
The board is marked with small lettering DL-94V-0
And, with larger lettering: "chamberlain POP P/N 014B0932 REV A"
well, the POP may be POR - hard to tell.

Here are a couple of pics of the board:LED PCBmore
I'm providing this stuff with the idea that may be able to fix this board or even on the odd chance that I may find one - just to give a bigger picture.  This is the lighting for an outdoor keypad that controls a residential gate.  No spare parts.....

Thanks again!
Fred MarshallPrincipalAuthor Commented:
Thanks again!
Dr. KlahnPrincipal Software EngineerCommented:
Since the (presumably filter) cap is located down at the other end of the board and the IC ("U1") is in the middle, my guess would be that it is a small rectifier bridge.  5 LEDs in series would be exactly right for 12 VDC - 2.0 to 2.4 volts each times 5 = 10 to 12 volts.  The resistors are probably there for current limiting.

The components most likely to fail would be the 33 uF tantalum capacitor and the rectifier bridge.  The LEDs should be testable on the board with the diode test setting on a DMM.
andyalderSaggar maker's framemakerCommented:
There looks to be a dry joint on U1 directly below the "3" of LED3, of course it may be the light or dirt but it looks like it to me.
It's more than this solution.Get answers and train to solve all your tech problems - anytime, anywhere.Try it for free Edge Out The Competitionfor your dream job with proven skills and certifications.Get started today Stand Outas the employee with proven skills.Start learning today for free Move Your Career Forwardwith certification training in the latest technologies.Start your trial today

From novice to tech pro — start learning today.